Milky White?
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I have not tried the idle screw as of yet...I am at work right now...so all of this will be tried later...
As far as the fuel...it could be but it's hard to say for sure...I put some 'injector cleaner' in it last night and am having the oil & filter changed tonight, also I am gonna have the battery checked, and the anti-freeze checked.
I may change the main relay as well, as I have a new one sitting at home.
As far as the wrong tire size...it's the same tire size that was on it when I bought the car...185 65R14 on 14" rims...I actually had these tires on my STD and there was no such sound and my STD rode on normally 175 70R13 on 13" rims.
AS far as getting screwed...well, mildly...on the 21st of November some bastard in a Dodge Ram cut me off and killed my STD that worked like the day it was born...the Si that I am now driving...was my "parts" car...so needless to say I never thought that I'd be driving the Si. I got this car for $325 CDN...so I can't really complain...it was only supposed to be a parts car.
So yah I got screwed out of driving my perfectly good, amazing fuel mileage STD...by some old bastard that was running a yellow and ended up going through a red...and hitting me.
Now I have to make the Si work...because the problem with having an older car...is insurance won't give you jack shit for it! I'm only getting $1000 CDN out of the car...
So bare with me...I will have a lot of dumb questions about a car I know nothing about and an engine that I am completely unfamiliar with...today is only my second day driving it.
:unsure:
Jason
steelbuster
Senior Member
Sorry ....forgot about this tread...I live in Minnesota...Blowby occures in every engine to some degree...milky deposits due to this occur in cold climates especially if the car is used for short trips... longer trips (10mi or more) warm the oil enough to evaporate the water out.
You really need a manual to diagnose the idle problem. It could involve the Fast Idle Valve, or the EACV or????. Buy a Haynes. it's the best.
steelbuster
Senior Member
By the way "blow by" refers to the combustion gas that escapes past the piston rings into the crankcase. The PVC system normally recovers this gas and returns it back into the intake manifold to be reburned. This is a pollution system not a performance system .. In the old days and in race engines, the crank case is just vented to the atmosphere.
Pappy
Pappy
sportlinecrx
Banned
[EDIT] yea he's right. nevermind.
sportlinecrx
Banned
doh! youre right. my bad. but the oil thing i was talkking about is a result of blow-by and is often referred to as oil blow-by.
steelbuster
Senior Member
Piston ring technology- sophistication or necessity
by Decio Viccino - Chief Engineer - Cofap
As engines have evolved into smaller, more powerful packages, piston ring designs have become more sophisticated with the adoption of leading edge technology. These developments in piston ring engineering, though significant, are minor compared to many of the new designs that are in our future.
New engine under development will place even greater demands on every engine component, especially the piston rings. Smaller engines with higher power output equate to higher thermal and mechanical loads on the components.
Today's cars also have a higher power demand. This is due to increases in vehicle weight from additional accessories and safety components such as air bags, ABS, and side impact protection bars. Everything is power assisted. Naturally all of this makes the engine work harder.
As we attempt to further reduce hydrocarbon emissions, one thing that helps significantly is moving the location of the top ring closer to the combustion chamber. In order to do this, piston rings are being made thinner. (One millimeter, or less, compression rings are in your future.) At the same time the rings must be made stronger and capable of withstanding increased temperatures. Each movement of the ring 1 mm (0.040") closer to the compression chamber increases ring temperature by about 30°C (54°F).
EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valves also have an adverse effect on piston rings. While combustion temperatures are reduced by the EGR, debris from the engine exhaust enters into the intake via the EGR valve. EGR can reduce ring life considerably on diesel engines.
Piston ring engineers always have to deal with factors that can reduce ring friction. If we build narrower rings, how does this effect both mechanical resistance and wear resistance? At the same time we must consider how lower tangential loads will effect ring conformability and oil consumption control.
Higher durability is another important factor both for engine life and meeting emissions standards.
OEM's also want to extend oil change intervals. So, ring manufacturers must constantly try to lower oil consumption and at the same time reduce oil degradation. Reducing blowby helps extend oil change intervals, but blowby reduction can have other consequences.
For many years we've understood and fought the problem of engine blowby, (combustion gasses escaping past the rings). Recently, however, the computer has enabled us to discover the existence of "blowback."
As gasses blowby the top ring, only about 30% of the gasses get past the second ring. These gasses, trapped by the second ring, get blown back past the top ring into the compression chamber. It sounds like a good situation, but it's not. As the blowback pushes back on the bottom of the top ring, it prevents the top ring from sealing properly and increases wear. What we've learned from this is that blowby is more desirable than blowback. Of course the best situation is to stop all gasses from getting past the top ring. Nice theory but impossible. So now we are actually increasing second ring end gap to allow more gasses to pass by all the rings and reduce blowback.
simplyfast
Senior Member
the white milky crap on the inside of your oil cap-it is moisture in your oil. you wanna check to see if you have a blown head gasket, simply remove the radiator cap and start the engine. if water spouts up/out, you have a compression leak. this means to any degree. if it slurps half way up, you have a leak. if you constantly have to add water to your radiator, you have a head gasket leak for spent gases will make their into your coolant, causing it to boil over to the over flow tank. you will also be able to smell gas in your coolant.
as for your idle problem...someone said fast idle control valve. they are probably right. if you want to be brave, tear it apart and replace the o-ring you find inside it. if you decide to replace the factory faulty o-ring remember to oil the o-ring so it will be able to seal properly.
the steering problem-who ever told you it was a problem with your alignment should not be allowed anywhere near a car with a wrench, screwdriver, or even tire pressure gauge for that matter. sounds to me like you have an axle going out. while driving my buddies car, a 90 crx si with a factory tuned engine, it did the same thing. what you might have done is loaded the axle while exiting hard from a corner. this is an easy fix that can be done within 11 minutes by an experienced mechanic. (i have timed myself, and my friend. he posted 11 minutes while i posted 14) if you arent an experienced mechanic this would be a good learning experience. you will need a few tools, i believe a 32mm, 17mm, and a 14 mm socket, a tie rod fork, a flat blade screw driver, and a pair of pliers to remove to cotter pin.
as for your idle problem...someone said fast idle control valve. they are probably right. if you want to be brave, tear it apart and replace the o-ring you find inside it. if you decide to replace the factory faulty o-ring remember to oil the o-ring so it will be able to seal properly.
the steering problem-who ever told you it was a problem with your alignment should not be allowed anywhere near a car with a wrench, screwdriver, or even tire pressure gauge for that matter. sounds to me like you have an axle going out. while driving my buddies car, a 90 crx si with a factory tuned engine, it did the same thing. what you might have done is loaded the axle while exiting hard from a corner. this is an easy fix that can be done within 11 minutes by an experienced mechanic. (i have timed myself, and my friend. he posted 11 minutes while i posted 14) if you arent an experienced mechanic this would be a good learning experience. you will need a few tools, i believe a 32mm, 17mm, and a 14 mm socket, a tie rod fork, a flat blade screw driver, and a pair of pliers to remove to cotter pin.
sportlinecrx
Banned
in response to steelbuster's post...
my bad. me=:tardcart:
my bad. me=:tardcart:I have had the oil changed and the milky white has left...so far.
I did the start the car with the rad cap off and nothing happened...at all.
Idle control...will look into that.
It's not a "steering" problem...there is "no" problem steering...I am getting a loud "humming" sound when I turn 'right' or slightly turn the wheel to the right...straight nothing, left nothing. Others (just about everyone I've talked to) have said that it is the "wheel bearing"???
Thanks for the input everyone.
Jason
simplyfast
Senior Member
no wheel bearing problem. if it were a wheel bearing it would hum goin straight and turnin left. its an axle.
Over and over, being the operative guys, this is not a cold weather situation and even if it was...3k is too high. This is almost definately a fast idle valve gone bad. The only other cause is a low coolant level, (the coolant temp sensor will start reading all over the place if the fluid is low) which may be being burned due to this head gasket possibility. I would like to think that you checked all of your fluids before posting...If it is just low, you can top it off while running and this will stop almost instantly. Otherwise, check out that valve.
That's odd...because when I replaced the wheel bearing on the right side of my STD it did the same thing, just not as loud because it wasn't on a turning wheel.
I have to get under there and have a look...but we just got almost 20 inches of snow in the last 24 hours...so...we'll see.
i'll keep you posted...
Jason