I'll try to help since I just did this exact same thing....except I did the entire engine instead of just the head and my hatch is a '90 std. From what I was told, you HAVE to have an Si ecu. I'm not positive why, but I think it's due to the DPFI swap to MPFI. I was also told the intake manifold had to be from the same ecu as the Si but I can't imagine why. I do realize the injectors that correspond to the ecu must be kept (i.e. peak hold for the Si ecu as opposed to saturated for the Z6), so I used the Si intake manifold instead of the Z6.
As for wiring the MPFI, you'll also need the resistor box for the fuel injectors. If you can get your hands on a decent diagram, you'll see that wiring the resistor box is a piece of cake. I wound up making a harness for the engine using both the old engine harness (D15A1 IIRC) and the D16Z6 harness. I just pulled the pins from the main plugs on the Z6 harness and reinserted them into the main plugs from the old harness. That way, I didn't have to do much soldering in the engine compartment in order to get the sensors wired up.
As for an intake, I found one that fit from the same style intake out of a junkyard...cost me 10 bucks for all of it.
You'll also need the distributor that matches the ecu. In my case, it was an Si model that needed some modifications in order to fit the Z6 head.
Check out this site for more info:
http://www.angelfire.com/ca/DrOhm/hybrid.html
And this one:
http://www.geocities.com/bing_bong916/vtec.html
Or this one:
http://crx.honda-perf.org/articles/moremin...moreminime.html
As for a trigger for the VTec, I used an Autometer tach with a shift lite....just be aware that the tach switches the negative instead of the positive. You'll need to wire that to energize a relay and switch the positive through that to pull in the VTec solenoid. Mine works nice, but there's not much difference I see. Everyone will tell you to get a VTec ECU, but I was low on funds too so I doubt you'll take that route.
Hope that helps a bit.
Good luck!