mini me help

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minimefastgurl

Junior Member
I just got my mini me started tonight... it has been in the garage for a month

It is an 88 crx automatic with the dpfi system

I installed a 94 d16z6 head
I bought a new td02u dizzy
I used stock harneddes wehre i could like the dizzy plug and the fuel injector harness... I followed the directions as to what wires to cut and add and so forth... I am 99 percent sure all is correct...
new plugs and oil

I amusing an 88 ecu and have tried another known good 88 ecu ( pm6 )

It cranked for a minute and then roared to life... let it warm up for awhile and was adding coolant to top it off I am going to be using an msd switch to control vtec.. but for now it is not hooked up... i modded the dizzy to fit the block and made spacers for it.. seting it right about in the middle for future adjustment..

THE PROBLEM IS.....

when you rev the car up past lets say 3500 to 4500 ( no tach currently in to see... it just bounces the revs up and down exactly like the stock rev limiter would do at say 7000 spins..

also the computer ( and i tried this with both of them... same result)
while running and with key on engine off will blink out 4 flashes and then 20 flashes... im not sure how to take that... my guess is code 4 and code 20... the 4 flashes seem to be longer than the 20 though.. but code 420 does not seem to make sense ( no jokes here please)

on the computer wiring i have the following wires left over from the conversion

a3 yellow with red stripe

a7 red with black stripe ( I may have confuesd the colors on the top 2 in my description)

b11 green with black stripe that was cut and the pin moved to the b12 spot
b2 orange with black stripe was cut and pin was used for b 10 spot...

I am a little confused by the directions that i used as i was under the assumption that i would need to add a few pins.... but i did not have to ..

once agian my car is an auto and the trans kick down cable is not surrently hooked up....
I would apprecitae any help you could provide...

thanks
 
I won't be of much help to you in figuring out ECU problems- but at the very least, I can tell you how to read the error codes...

The ECU flashes them in order from low number to high, then pauses and repeats. Long flases are tens, short flashes are ones. There's a pause (longer than the wait between flashes) between individual codes. Your first 4 flashes were probably one code, and the last 20 flashes were probably another code. One tip- the short flashes for the ones are approximately the same speed as your SRS light's flash rate when you have the diagnostic connector jumpered.

Once you have the codes figured out, look them up in our reference section (or your service manual) and try to correct whatever's causing the error- then see if you have anything that's still acting up.
 
Thanks... I got the fact that i am getting a code 4 and a code 20 crank angle and electric load..... got dome diagrams and am going to check the computer wiring to verify all is right and check how i wired the dizzy plug on funny thing is that when i reverse the 2 wires on the dizzy the blue green blue yellow ones..... i was told that it was suposed to severely retard the timing if they were wrong.... well i tried it both ways and it seems to run just as good either way....... still throws codes and rev limiter at 3-4 grand...... funny thing is that i can totally disconnect those 2 wires and it still runs the same..... its like they are not doing a darn thing......... i tried a new dizzy last night..... that i know is good.... . .same crap..... please help.... this is my dirt track race car for this year and i need to finish up the engine... so i can move onto getting the cage in and the body done...... ill up the annie a little...... who ever can provide me with the advice that i decide gets the problem fixed will be paypaled 10 dollars..... not a bad price for just offering a little help.. . . .

thanks in advance Chris





Originally posted by Calesta@Feb 18 2005, 09:17 PM
I won't be of much help to you in figuring out ECU problems- but at the very least, I can tell you how to read the error codes...

The ECU flashes them in order from low number to high, then pauses and repeats. Long flases are tens, short flashes are ones. There's a pause (longer than the wait between flashes) between individual codes. Your first 4 flashes were probably one code, and the last 20 flashes were probably another code. One tip- the short flashes for the ones are approximately the same speed as your SRS light's flash rate when you have the diagnostic connector jumpered.

Once you have the codes figured out, look them up in our reference section (or your service manual) and try to correct whatever's causing the error- then see if you have anything that's still acting up.
[post=462928]Quoted post[/post]​
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ok, I am getting desperate.... I will paypal 20 bucks to the first person that can provide me with the info that i need i really need to get this going. please help//
 
Are you still running dual point fuel injection? If so you should swap to multi point. Also did you make sure the timing was set right when you put the belt on? Make sure you check all your sensors to see if any of them are messed up. I hope this helps
 
Timing is on..... red mark lined up with indicator and cam positioned with the top of the head... i am getting a code 4 and a code 20

crank angle and electric load.... . . the code 4 keeps reseting.... i think the problem is in my dissy wiring.... but not sure...

liek I said. . i have a brand new dizzy and also tried a known good one...

yeah it is multi port . . .it was auto with dpfi not is auto with mpfi.... it ran fine before..


when swapping out the square dx dizzy plug for the round si one i lined up all the colors


orange to orange
white to white
white to white
orangeblue to orange blue
whiteblue to white blue...
the 2 blue ones
blue yellow and blue green
got hooked to c1 and c2 off the computer... for the crank angle...


i saw last night on the net that there are 2 white wires on the dizzy and that the one that comes out of the shielded wire along with the orange is for the tdc sensor... not the solo white one that is not shielded i am going to double check to see that i have these right....

I have tried 2 known good pm6 ecu's and the funny thing is.... it idles good and runs good up to 3 or 4 grand..... even with al the dizzy wires off.... yeah. you can un wire all of them except for the big ones on the seperate orange plug and it still runs.... . . please help i need to go racing ( this is a gutted dirt track car )


thanks
in advance.
 
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