minitruck??

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INJEN78 said:
when i do the notch do i still use the rear part of the frame or do i build something else?
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Don't know the answer for the over/on question, but this is a big :yes: unless you wanna fab something up? Tubed chassis?

In most cases, Notching just extends the frame upward. It would be as if you were to cut out 2 feet of your frame and move it upward. People put different shapes to it, different designs, but generally they're all the same. Everywhere around that segment is untouched. I really can't wait to get back into it. I need to learn how to weld. Who wants to teach me?
 
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That silver ranger that I posted, he cut the frame off after the c-notch, cut the entire bed floor out of the truck and had the bed supported up by his own bracket setup. What you can do is endless, theres a C10 out there some where, they did a box tube frame and instead of a c-notch they just took box tube and stepped it up after the cab. I love the way it looks. so simple and clean.

On axle bags I believe is just how it sounds. when you your bags connect right on top of the axle housing.
 
INJEN78 said:
BAG ON AXLE
BAG OVER AXLE
what do these mean??
and when i do the notch do i still use the rear part of the frame or do i build something else?
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Same thing. The decision you need to make is bag over BAR or bag over AXLE. On my ranger, I had the bags over the upper bars. A lot of people put them over the axle, outside the frame, because the Ranger frame is so narrow that they fit outside. On the S10, the bags over axle would be placed inside the frame, because the S10 frame is significantly wider.

As far as the notch, you just need to make room for the axle when the truck lays out. It doesn't matter how you accomplish it as long as it is structurally sound and works well with the rest of the set up.

Here is mine, in it's final iteration, right before I sold it:

1 = c-notch and shock mount
2 = bags on bars

Note the triangular positioning of the upper 4 link bars. The triangle is the most structurally sound shape and in this situation, acts as a brace, keeping the axle centered. If you have a 2 link (2 bars only) or a parallel 4 link (4 bars, both running straight fore and aft) then you need a panhard bar, which acts as the centering device.

You also have to consider the length of the bars. Shorter bars will provide you with more stability but exaggerated wheel movement on lift and drop because of the short radius.

Longer bars will generally provide you with a more comfortable ride, due to the isolating nature of the longer distance between axle and frame. They will also tend to keep the axle centered with a consistent wheelbase.

So for a minitruck that will see a lot of lift, long bars are ideal.

Just to illustrate, my truck lost about 1.5" of wheelbase at full lift, because, as the body and frame lift up and away from the axle, the radius of the bar brings the axle forward. Longer bars are also better because they will reduce lateral torsion on the bag at full lift.

As for the A/C compressor, I have seen and heard of it being done. It can be a pretty involved procedure. You will need an external check valve, an external oiler, and a pressure switch. Also, it would be ideal if it was one made for the vehicle so it would bolt into place without having to make bracketry.

I tried it on my Ranger with an old compressor from an Aerostar. It bolted right into place on the 4.0L but the clutch was seized so I threw it out and bought Viair 450s lol.
 
Here's the pic I meant to post in the last one.
 

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most people go with the regular compressors because Its cheap and easier to set up, As well you don't have to have your truck always on in order to pump. Of course you have to start it up every now and then so you dont kill the battery.

heres a thread to a pretty decent build IMO
Honest Abe's Shop Truck build - FloridaTruckScene.com

I like the way the air lines are hidden on the back.
 
i dont care about anything being hidden or anything..i just want it to be functional lol..
i like your setup as well r8d...
i think im understanding all of this better now..
another question..
why is a link needed?? i cant use the stock traction arms?? or whatever theyre called
 
Most of the time you flexing your suspension travel beyond the limits of the stock trailing arm. So you build a link set up to be able to handle the abuse that you and your bags are going to put it through.
 
INJEN78 said:
i dont care about anything being hidden or anything..i just want it to be functional lol..
i like your setup as well r8d...
i think im understanding all of this better now..
another question..
why is a link needed?? i cant use the stock traction arms?? or whatever theyre called
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94H_Ex said:
Most of the time you flexing your suspension travel beyond the limits of the stock trailing arm. So you build a link set up to be able to handle the abuse that you and your bags are going to put it through.
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There is no stock trailing arm...he has leaf springs.

And how could you put an air spring (which is intended to replace your leaf spring) on top of your leaf spring and expect it to move up and down or even ride right.

I've heard of people bagging over a dearched mono-leaf but that is retarded too. You really have to have some kind of link system.

The bag is the spring

The links hold the axle in place
 
UNDR8D said:
There is no stock trailing arm...he has leaf springs.
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My bad I was thinking of a honda trailing arm for some dumb reason.

I have a basic idea of whats required to bag a truck, and picking up on the technical part of it.

Like I know why people drop pivot of the rear end about 3 degrees downwards. Still alot more I haven't picked all the way on.

Thinking about it now, a buddy of mine found a whole independent rear end. I cant exactly remember what he found it on, but I was thinking it was a truck. I could of been connecting it to a ranger because he owns a ranger. :shrug2:
 
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94H_Ex said:
Like I know why people drop pivot of the rear end about 3 degrees downwards. Still alot more I haven't picked all the way on.

Thinking about it now, a buddy of mine found a whole independent rear end. I cant exactly remember what he found it on, but I was thinking it was a truck. I could of been connecting it to a ranger because he owns a ranger. :shrug2:
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That is called the pinion angle and it may have to be adjusted to mimic the stock angle to avoid heating and wearing out the pinion seal and pinion gear.

As far as the independent rear end, pulling the independent rear out of a 240 and adapting it to a truck is pretty popular and pretty sweet. Probably not that hard to build, as long as it is straight.
 
Its not a 240 rear end, I cant explain it right now. Next time I see him I'll ask him, but it looks bad ass. He told me the only reason he hasn't installed it is because he's already got his setup the way he likes it.
 
Oh well it could pretty much be from any one of 1000 cars that had independent rears. Old corvette?
 
u can always monoleaf the rear and bag it until u can get the money to 4-link it. i DO have a universal 4-link for sale that i bought from FBI before the closed. never been insatlled. if you are interested, lemme know. im only asking $125 plus shipping for it.

btw, if you dont have 4x4 front fenders already, id get them as they are wider than the 2wd ones. itll help when it comes to tucking those rims.
 
UNDR8D if i ever decide to bag my Yota i'm hittin you up.. lol.. ur only 2 hrs away..
 
I would be more than happy to do it for you. As long as you provide a welder and beeeeer. If you took the bed off and pulled the gas tank, I could do the yota in a weekend.
 
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