more B20* q's...

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stmotorsports

stmotorsports

Senior Member
hey all. My gf has apparently decided to swap a B20 in place of the blown stock motor in her '93 cx hatch. She's planning on going turbo eventually so I'm saying B20B, but that won't be for awhile cause $$ is real tight right now and she thinks that she won't be happy with the power of the stock B20B until then. I was wondering if teg LS/RS/GS parts would make any difference over the stock crv stuff- ie heads, cams, intake manifold, etc? she already has full ITR exhaust for the car, and i was thinking the ITR intake manifold might be an improvement...? Any ideas? Thanx tons for any help
:)
 
uhhh, if she needs a motor, ANYTHING is better than the stock cx motor, how much does she have right now for $$$$?
 
Originally posted by get_nick@Oct 6 2003, 09:13 PM
uhhh, if she needs a motor, ANYTHING is better than the stock cx motor, how much does she have right now for $$$$?
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well, she's currently putting herself thru college so the cheaper the better. The cx was her daily driver and we're trying to get something shoved in there quick for now but no point in doing another cx/dx motor just cause it's a quick drop in- we'll just have to pull it back out sooner or later anyways. Like I said before, I was thinking a B20B with intake/exhaust/maybe cams/different head/etc probably wouldn't be so bad for now...?
Any idears?
 
if you plan to turbo later and you wann be safe just get a b18b. its cheaper and much safer to turbo. the cylinder walls are thin on a b20 and before boosting it needs to be sleeved.

if you go with the b18b you could get a set of b16 pistons cheap, and get a set of non-vtec cams aren't really expensive, but that motor would be pissed compared to the cx.
 
dude, why would you get a b20 and do intake, exhaust, cams, and i'm guessing you mean intake manifold when you are worried about cost when you change half of that when she puts on a turbo. for that price you could get a b18b and be about 1000 dollars away from the turbo. if she is going to boost you don't need to worry about vtec.
 
Originally posted by get_nick@Oct 7 2003, 11:48 AM
dude, why would you get a b20 and do intake, exhaust, cams, and i'm guessing you mean intake manifold when you are worried about cost when you change half of that when she puts on a turbo. for that price you could get a b18b and be about 1000 dollars away from the turbo. if she is going to boost you don't need to worry about vtec.
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#1= the ITR exhaust is already on the car, has been.
#2= car already has an EX/SI CAI
#3= it's alot easier to find boneyard GSR/etc parts than boneyard turbos in any kind of useable condition
#4= she already knows someone with a crv motor
#5= *IF* she does end up going turbo, it won't be for at least a year or more
#5= once again, the important part is $$$- we are both currently putting ourselves thru school (tuition=mad$$$=both piss poor) so if it's going to cost $1,000's to get it running, it's not an option. Needs to be cheap and doable, quick and somewhat simple. Daily driver, reliable transportation. GF= without car for now= temporarily screwed. I'm looking for sound advice from knowledgeable people, not 'dude, just drop like $47,642.37 into it and you'll be good to go'
:hmm:
 
ok, if you don't have money, i'll put it simple. get the cheapest fucking motor, and stop fucking caring if it's fast. get to school, get a good job, and be happy with a slow fucking car until you have money.
 
Originally posted by get_nick@Oct 8 2003, 01:18 AM
ok, if you don't have money, i'll put it simple. get the cheapest fucking motor, and stop fucking caring if it's fast. get to school, get a good job, and be happy with a slow fucking car until you have money.
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yeah thanks for the help :thumbsdown:
 
when you say b20, do you mean b20 vtec?
an intrgra ls swap will cost less than a b20, and alot less than a b20vtec
an ls engine only has like 9 less hp than a crv b20
the cars hood will not close over the b20 unless you change the im to an ls

dude, weigh your options carefully
ls (b18a or B) = 1k
b20 = 2-3k
b20vtec = your collage tuition

just my $.02
 
well i guess she decided on a '99 B20Z, it came today :blink: (I thought she was bs'ing me the other day when she said she ordered one...)

she's not too concerned about the vtec for now, she just wants a good overall powerband and throttle response cause she autox's it. The intake on new motor isn't the '97-'98 'waterfall' style but it's not like the traditional teg/civic short-waterfall style either, it's a big square box that looks like an aluminum air filter housing built right into the intake (I haven't had alot of experience with many crv motors). Looks like it will definitely clear the hood, not sure about the firewall tho... :unsure:

still looking for a trans, hopefully gsr but not too picky at the moment... can always be changed later anyways.

Does anybody know if the crv intake manifold can be used with an OBD-1 setup (probably 1st gen P75 teg ecu)? Or will she have to get a teg intake also? And what's the difference between OBD1/2 distributors/ what has to be done to get the crv dist to work with OBD-1? I'll try to get some pics of the intake up

Thanx again for any help B)
 
that intake mani is called a giraffe i think... i'm pretty sure your going to have to switch to an obd1 ls intake manifold and throttle body, but you may be able to use your old wiring harness and sensors with the new stuff.

but you'll want to switch any way, because the ls intke mani will give you better top end performance.

on the dist. look at how many wires are on the plug. if it has the same number of wires as on your stock distributor you can just splice the plugs and be good to go. if it has fewer wires, which i think it will cause its a 99 you may just hve to buy a new dist. not sure tho.
 
the intake manifold is the newer crv style, not the giraffe like on the '97-'98 crvs. I'm positive it will fit under the hood, but do we still need to change to an OBD-1 intake anyways?

Also, what ECU is she best off with? I've been trying to find a 1st gen P75, but...?
 
I'm running 92-95 ls w/obd1-obd2 converter and it runs fine, I just have to get a fake tag for inspection. I do have a problem starting every now and then though. Sometimes when I try to start it after i have recently driven it, it starts, chokes, and dies. then it just cranks. I have to punch the gas in pretty far before it starts, and i have to hold it at 500rpm otherwise it drops to ~0rpm and chokes again. I'm thinking it's the fuel pump, but i'm not quite sure. It happens more on hot days. Other than that, I like the b20z. once you get it in, try pushing it hard at ~45000 RPM :D.

as far as turbo, i was told you could run ~5-6 psi daily driving and up to 10 at the track using jet fuel with stock internals. the only main recommendation is to get stronger head studs. you may not be able to run as high boost with the higher compression, but you get less turbo lag, which in my opinion is better for daily driving. you could always change the compression too =P
 
man i just gotta say your gf is cool as hell. my wife (while down with cars) would never just order up a B20 swap....2 thumbs up!!!!
 
Originally posted by xcscivic@Oct 14 2003, 06:16 AM
man i just gotta say your gf is cool as hell. my wife (while down with cars) would never just order up a B20 swap....2 thumbs up!!!!
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(<~~~~ girlfriend)

Thanks :D

I'm so excited - I can't wait till it's done.
 
Yes, i'm running on the '92-'95 teg ecu, i believe it's the CRV distributor..but I'm not quite sure as I had a shop swap it. Intake I used a generic Civic for the EX/SI. (LX and DX have different setup). It is an ok fit, you might have some trouble if you lower the car. Since the CRV engine sits a little higher or lower than the civic one, the intake sits a little funny. The filter pushes on the inner pastic fender guard thing making the tire rub against it during turns. You might be better off with a short ram.
 
Originally posted by camelian@Oct 14 2003, 07:33 PM
Intake I used a generic Civic for the EX/SI. (LX and DX have different setup). It is an ok fit, you might have some trouble if you lower the car. Since the CRV engine sits a little higher or lower than the civic one, the intake sits a little funny. The filter pushes on the inner pastic fender guard thing making the tire rub against it during turns. You might be better off with a short ram.
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uh... yeah- the car is real low. She's tucking the stock 13"s, I was starting to wonder if there were going to be clearance probs. Still trying to find a trans for it, but I think she wants to try & get the crv intake to work- I think it would look awesome in there instead of the normal civic/teg intake, nice & all polished or powdercoated or something... :thumbsup:
 
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