motor mount problem!! help

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

poloboy4

poloboy4

New Member
ok i have a 99 ex and i have and i had a y8 in it now i put a z6 and i am using the z6 trans mission now my problem is mounting it on the car i can get the driver and rear mount on the car on but the transmission mount is like pushed froward about 2 inches or so i cant mount it tried messing it in so many ways for about 3 hrs and fianaly gave up. ( i am using all my stock mounts.)
 
(if you are sure they are the right mounts) You might try putting the mounts on the car before you lower the engine in, or putting the mounts on the engine before lowering it. *either way always keep the rear mount on the car and the rear BRACKET on the engine*. btw dont worry about the other brackets yet. Just the left, right, and rear for now. Its always going to be a very tight fit, so it doesnt always mean theres something wrong.

You said that you cant get the tranny mount in, if its currently on the engine, I would put it on the car and pull the engine over, while a friend snaps the mount onto the tranny bolts.

I dont know if this helps, but I know my book says to keep the right/left mounts on the car. I couldnt get it done so I ended up putting the left mount on the engine and the right mount on the car and got it done. (still very tough)
 
That mount I believe has a "0" shaped bolt hole meaning that you can move it rather than an "o" where there is no play. I had the same problem while installing my engine in my EF, then I realized that if I loosen it up and position the mount in place it may just work, and it did!.
 
WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY "0" SHAPED HOLE?
:confused:
also i got the rear mount on already and the right one? i tried it both ways mount on trans and mount on car and i cant get it back far enough to bolt it in place. u think if i do the right one then the left one it will work? ( i cant do much with the left one beacause the a/c bracket mount.
 
ohh one more thing so gunsnbam do i unbolt the rear motor mount and do the right and left one for now?
 
I am sorry, what I meant was that it has an adjusting bolt hole "0" "o" those symbols were to represent the shape of the holes.
 
do i need to buy one of those and if so were at?
 
No, you do not have to buy one. It comes like that from the factory. If you would like I can take pictures of mine and post them. Take care.
 
wooohoo! i got it on i took out the motor again and realized i did not change the rear mount! i feel stupid lol... anyways i got the motor in now plugged just about everything did it all my self... broke a couple things lol but i got it to crank but now the car wont go on!??
 
Check ALL grounds as well as distributor timing!. Also, my Civic would not start after my MPFI swap, I yanked everything out THEN realized that I did not have the washers on where the banjo nut goes to the fuel rail, and it was too tight on there. Check all these and let me know how it goes. Thanks!.
 
Last edited:
how would i go about checking all the (banjo) wait u mean the bolt to the fuel and the filter? i made sure there was a washer on each side... i can smell gas when i go to turn it on? how do i check the dist timing i did not remove it at all? and how many grounds should my car have? i know i got 2 of them for sure.. front one by the core support and the on that goes to the tranny to the frame?
 
Yes, the "banjo" nut is the special nut holding the fuel line onto the fuel rail itself. Is the gas spewing from the "banjo" nut?, if so I believe it is too tight at the fuel rail and you could be cutting the fuel off making it back up, thus the smell of gasoline. You did not have the distributor off at anytime? As well, for the grounds there are like 3 or 4 in the engine bay itself. Atleast there is on my EF. Did you have the dash out at any approximate time? There are tonnes of grounds in there.
 
Ohh okay Im going to losen that bonjo nut mm no I did not remove the dash just the motor and the. Crap around the battery n the fuses. ok tried it and it did not work.. still nothing since i my self wired the distributor to obd2 from the obd1 will it be a problem? i used it using this.. check pic.. anyways i unpluged the dizzy from the plug in and i cranked the car and it did the excat same thing? dose this help at all? also i left the blue speed wire not connected to anything my dizzy plug only has 8 pin and not 9 and i do not have a crank shaft sensor do i need 1?
 

Attachments

  • distributorsobd2and1.jpg
    distributorsobd2and1.jpg
    55.4 KB · Views: 109
Last edited:
Ohh, ok what you probably need to do is go back to your distributor wiring and there will be 2 white wires to it, a thinner wire and a thicker wire. Make sure those are connected right. Your car should fire right up if that is the issue.
 
Also, it appears that the OBD2A adaptor is what was needed. Did you pay attention to the A or B symbols after OBD2? It may not matter, but that could be something to look at.
 
ahh i will have to look at that mine is a 99 so the it is obd2b not obd2a so would i still check the white wires? i left the blue one unplugged wich is engine speed on the obd1 i believe correct me if im wrong. do you know if i will need a crank sensor?
 
That is odd! As for the question about the crank sensor, since it is an OBD2 you do need a crank sensor, I believe it is called a CYP sensor. There is a lot of shit involved with OBD2, do you mind me asking why you switched from OBD1 to OBD2? I mean you could have kept the OBD1 setup with the D16y8 head. All you would have really had to do is switch out a D15b7 (OBD1) distributor because it mounts right to the y8 head and is OBD1 and runs perfect! (so I have heard from many people)
 
My bad, it is a 99' then you would have already been running OBD2a -or- b setup. I thought I read that you converted to OBD2 from OBD1.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top