My 92 Hatch LS swap in progress

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Be warned about ebay parts... Not all of them are bad, but rads and inter coolers are built to disparate heat. The fins in between the aluminum sides are crossed a specific way to max the cooling. Some ebay knock off's do not do this and it cools the same if not worse than your stock Rad.
 
my buddy has the same radiator in his 96 civic with an ls swap, hes nhever had any cooling issues so i figured ill be ok with same one, especially since we both have LS motors
 
huslnuracingcrew said:
my buddy has the same radiator in his 96 civic with an ls swap, hes nhever had any cooling issues so i figured ill be ok with same one, especially since we both have LS motors
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I've purchased a couple of DNA Motorsports aluminum dual row radiators on eBay and they are both good quality parts - and a good price.

There is some rip off junk available on eBay without a doubt. But, they have feedback, and if used correctly, along with a bit of common sense, I've only had one problem (used HT system component) with over 300 purchases - car parts, tools, shop supplies, cell phones and accessories, and high end home music system components much of which were purchased used.. Tools, shop supplies and car parts were all purchased new, except for a couple of Honda ECU's.

I just read feedback against the part I'm considering and look at the price as well. In your case, you had a friends recommendation and experience. Probably not a good idea to go after a full set of coil overs for $99 with free shipping for example - not that you would.

This one went to another member "Glassheadlights" as I changed my mind and went with a full width as it gets pretty hot in Texas in the summer.

Short%20Radiator%209.jpg



I'm running this one - as I recall it was about ~$150 for it, the fans that came with it were pretty weak so I went with a single Hayden and it works great. For the price, even if it came without fans, it was a good deal.

Dual%20Core%20Radiator.JPG
 
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Dual-500 said:
I'm running this one - as I recall it was about ~$150 for it, the fans that came with it were pretty weak so I went with a single Hayden and it works great. For the price, even if it came without fans, it was a good deal.
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thats the only thing im worried about, the fan it came it with, my buddy stuck with his stock fan, so im not sure how this fan is gonna perform, i was wondering if i could put the stock fan on and put this other fan on the other side of the radiator and hook it up to a switch, anybody ever done something like this? not sure if it would too well or at all having a fan on eatch side of the radaitor
 
One good fan is what you want - I'm at a burger joint / bar on the iPhone right with a cold draught in front of me. I'll elaborate when I get back home via an edit to this post.

EDIT #1: Had a cold draught Shiner in front of me. Now #2 is here with ice around the mug - no cheeseburger yet, but who cares....

EDIT #2: Phuking cheeseburger is a home cooked monster. Cold beer compliments it perfectly.

EDIT #3: DIODE CHATTER REMOVED. NOT NEEDED WHEN CONNECTING TO OEM HARNESS RADIATOR FAN CONNECTOR.

MAYBE IT WAS WAS THE BEER! :)
 
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Dual-500 said:
One good fan is what you want - I'm at a burger joint / bar on the iPhone right with a cold draught in front of me. I'll elaborate when I get back home via an edit to this post.

EDIT #1: Had a cold draught Shiner in front of me. Now #2 is here with ice around the mug - no cheeseburger yet, but who cares....

EDIT #2: Phuking cheeseburger is a home cooked monster. Cold beer compliments it perfectly.

EDIT #3: For electric cooling fans they need to have a diode in the circuit. The wiring on the Honda has the diode. So, if you add anything make sure it has a diode inline with the fan motor. Why you ask Grasshopper? It limits back feed current. When sitting still with fan running it dwaws X amps. Typically between 5-8 amps for OEM. When the vehicle is hot and the sensor closes the fan relay for fan to run and you start the vehicle moving at some point the air rushing in through the grill will actually speed up the fan. When this happens, the fan turns into a generator and attempts to back feed the car electrical system. This could cause issues, burn out fan motor or damage car wiring. So, they use a diode inline to prevent backflow on the current from the fan under these conditions.
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to be honest im not even sure what this diode thing is, but if i were to hook this new fan up to the stock fan plug would i be ok??

another question, i was thinking about buying a hos kit off ebay so i can have all brand new hoses, do you guy think a knock off ebay set woul do the job?
i was looking at something like this :
HONDA CIVIC EK4 EK9 B16A SILICONE RADIATOR COOLANT&HEATER HOSE KIT 1991-2001 RED | eBay

another question. im going to buy some aftermarket guages, my question is for the oil pressure and water temp guages do i need mechanical guages or electric?
 
Looking at the guys feedback, it's all positive and he sells lots of radiators and many different hose kits. I would not hesitate to buy a kit.

Yes, a new fan on the stock connector and circuit is fine. I mentioned the diode in case you wanted to wire up the fan yourself.

I looked at a Honda wiring schematic and don't see a diode in the radiotor fan circuit anywhere. I would assume Honda builds the diode into the fan assembly itself.

Now that I shot my mouth off about it, I can't find the reference where I read that claim. I thought it was in the install instructions of the Hayden fan. Can't fine it, so I went online and they don't mention it.

The Hayden fan in my '91 hatch is wired to the factory plug and works fine.

Here's a reference to diodes in the fan circuit, just for my sanity:

How to install an electric fan PICS - Ford Explorer Ranger Enthusiasts "Serious Explorations"®

Again, diodes are not needed.

For gauges, I don't have any recommendations as the only gauge experience I have is with digital data loggers on racing go-karts. Different application all together.
 
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