My first civic

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Dude!!! Your car is coming along very nicely! Best of luck man!

Thanks for your praise.

here is my built up powertrain yearning to be swapped.
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here is my AEM big rear disk brake upgrade for the summer


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For my lighting upgrades I went with these Sonar projector headlight that specifically has a sticker "NO HID". lol!!!
Well screw what it says and immediate out came the H1 halogen bulb and in goes a McCulloch HID capsule 6000K.

the light is not white but a slight tint of blue which is acceptable I think.

these are much better than OEM stock headlights with HID in them.

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I got a fitament issue and the fender does not fit flush

got the ones I received was for 1999-2000, Damn!

So I bought TYC proejctor headlight and atleast the TYC are SAE and DOT approved. But still I'm going to put in a McCulloch HID conversion kit in them.

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Actually this adaptor harness does not exist on the market and I thought of it so I do not have to hack and splice the OEM wires.

A stock 1997 Civic uses 9003 dual filament halogen bulb fitted into a single headlight housing.

But in my situation I have changed the stock headlight housings to dual headlight assemblies. Meaning that there is a single bulb for high and single bulb for low. On top to make things a little more complicated I have fitted a McCulloch HID H1 5000K capsules into the low beams, whilst leaving the halogen H1 bulb for the high beams. So what kind of plug do you need to interface the stock OEM plug to give output to the HID and halogen bulb without cutting and splicing wires???

this the plug that came with the TYC projector lights. Blue is for low beam 12V+, black is ground -, and Red is for highbeams.

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so this is what i came up with


you will need 6 H4 nylon connectors
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you will need 14 female terminals
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some two conductior wires preferably UL tested in Canada
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I cut them into four 12 inch strips
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removed about 2 inch of insulator exposing the two conductor wires. Black is for ground and white is 12V+

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strip off about 6mm of insulator from each conductor wire
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cut out the terminals
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use the terminal and crimp all the white wires individually

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for the black you will need to combine on pair of black conductors together into one crimp for one side. This one will be inserted in the connector that will be interfaced with the stock OEM plug.

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prepare to insert the terminals into the H4 connectors

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installation of terminals for the OEM connector. top white is for low beam 12V+, right white is for high beam 12V+, and black is ground.
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make sure you have the other high and low beam H4 connectors oriented correctly.

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H4 connector to OEM connector. you can see all three terminals.

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Hi and Low connectors.
Hi goes to the TYC H4 connector while the Low goes to the input side for the HID relay harness.

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For the H4 connectors to OEM you will need these spades since both are females

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spades inserted
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all this took was about 10 minutes with the right tools and a basic knowledge in wiring.
 
to compliment my headlights I got some Depo auxiliary lights.

Supposedly these are completely plug and play for the halogen bulbs with the enclosed wiring. But that was not good enough for me as I wanted more lumens.

So obviously I got another McCulloch HID kit and going to install them as well.

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I spent one hour fitting the McCulloch H3 HID capsules inside the light housings and drilling a big enough hole in the rear back plate to fit the grommet.
so afterwards it looked OEM except for the two high tension HID plugs. I left the stock electrical wiring as it would not affect anything and you can easily put back the halogen in if needed.

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interfacing HID wiring with the relayed harness that came with the DEPO lights.

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Took about less than 1 hour to remove the bumper skin off and both stock headlights so I can install my light upgrades.

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At this rate you will be done tomorrow.

if the nuts and bolts are not rusted, seized or break off it would have went much more smoothly.


























Snapped off the head of the damn bolt.

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spin saw didn;t work well and didn't reach so I used these Lawson drill bits and must say they are amazing


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vise grips and patience finally got these sucker out

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I always like to have a plug and play installation and not those hack jobs of cutting and splicing the oem electrical wirings.
so i got the oem connectors for the vtec solenoid, vtec oil pressure switch, knock sensor and two wire iacv.
So I extended the existing connectors, soldered, heat shrinked and marked the wires for ease of installation for myself on the ecu harnesses.

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vtec solenoid probably the hardest to find of the batch
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need obd2a pins on the ecu side
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Yeah I would kill myself or move south one lol, can't stand the rust on northern cars!

I really like the way the car has converted! Not feeling the headlights at all, but it looks like you've done a good job installing them, and as long as you like them, thats all that matters!
 
I was just gonna say those lights look really good on there! You're a machine working on your car eh? And rust sucks, big time.
 
Yeah I would kill myself or move south one lol, can't stand the rust on northern cars!

I really like the way the car has converted! Not feeling the headlights at all, but it looks like you've done a good job installing them, and as long as you like them, thats all that matters!


Well the rust you get use to it when working on cars here. Basically you try penetrating lube, heat, or physically cut and drill it out.
I keep the chrome OEM look of the original chrome lights but having the projector and 4 bulb headlight system to keep the day time running lights.
I want to keep it as stock looking on the outside to avoid police.
I like to do things once and correctly. I hate having to put in a powertrain to find out I need to remove the transmission for a leaking rear seal or something.
Next phase for the summer is the turbo kit once the engine gets about 8-10K kilometers.
Got myself some metal strips about 1 inch X 6 inch.

drilled two holes in each and the FMIC was mounted.
the bad was the clearance on the input and output was right besides my foglights. I will have to investigate this more after I install the intercooler piping and silicone coupling.

the intercooler will do the job as I plan not to exceed 8-9psi on the daily driver.



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drilled through the bumper rebar and used some 4.5 inch bolts
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side shots
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bumper skin
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bumper skin back on
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the bolts washers and nuts
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the original horn was dead long time ago and since everything was out. I took the liberty to buy two low tone horns and installed them as well.

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strips were actually L bracket but i hammered them flat.
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tools to wire up them horns.
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box of goodies
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factory mounting bolt for the horn seems a good place for the two horns.
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terminals crimped, heat shrinked and ready to install
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space is limited so I installed them one aim back towards the motor and the other towards the front grill.

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old stock horn is complete dead RIP.
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solder the connections and tape
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finished
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bought a tube of 3M at Napa

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these two mounts do not have prothane inserts

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make shift mold so the urethane does not leak all over the place
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the hole was same as a twoney
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The Gazette....You're from Montreal?! Nice!

Are you on MontrealRacing.com?

Planning on going to the juleup?!

Your car is looking nice so far!
 
wht have u done to the motor

Competition Cam
Competition HD valve springs
Competition Titanium spring retainers
Vitara pistons
Hasting piston rings
Probe I-beam connecting rods
ACL bearings
ARP headbolts
Port matched
new oil pump
new water pump
new contitech timing belt
all new complete engine gasket kit
aluminum flywheel 8lbs.
6 puck disk
HD pressure plate
ARP crankshaft bolts
ARP pressure plate bolts
I guess that is about it.:mellow:
 
get fuel rail and pressure regulator and some bigger injectors and that will be the most beastly 4dr i have ever seen.
 
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