my first honda (89 hatch)

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George777, are you refering to smog and ref in order to do a legit swap in ca?
 
i checked rywire.com , am i looking at getting a subharness? would a 90-91 obd0 ls motor just bolt right in and work off of my si setup? injectors, harness, ecu? with obd0 or obd1 is there a horsepower difference both in motor and tunning? and are the obd0 and obd1 both capable of ls vtec?
 
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can i put cams and build the motor and head, and be able to tune the way i need too on an obd0 motor and ecu. or should i go obd1?
 
paulsen said:
George777, are you refering to smog and ref in order to do a legit swap in ca?
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Yes. I don't know all the stipulations that are part of this 'ref' thing, nor what the smog leniency is, but I know that if I was building something and I was going to be spending that much money, I would want to make sure all my ducks were in a row prior to investing time and effort in. It would suck much monkey dong if you put thousands of dollars and dozens of hours into it and not be able to make it legit.
 
I'm not from Cally so I don't have the same problems you do. I was considering moving there 4 months ago. I found that most people said you have to know someone to pass with what your talking about doing. I even considered registering my car out of state, most people I spoke to said that wouldn't fly for very long.
From what you have said is sounds like you would be best off going OBD1. From what I've experienced it's much more tuner friendly. In fact I've heard people with newer OBD2 retro fit their car with OBD1 for tuning purposes.
 
yah there pretty strict on anything to do with cars, it one major disadvantage to living in california.yah ive checked into it and i found an ls motor will ref and smog in my car ,
 
Sorry for the late reply. You will for sure need a motor mount kit, from hasport or avid. Also a shifter linkage for the swap. That will get you started. You will i'm sure have a ton of extras odds and ends you will need. If you want the integra rad you have to notch out the front cross member a little. The hose sizes from integra rad and civic rad are different sizes. If you use stock header you need integra top and civic bottom. My aftermarket crx header bottom didn't fit, so I used the complete integra header, it hangs a little low. I just used my si wiring harness some wires are a little tight reaching the plugs but I got in.
 
No, the stock radiator wont cause any problems, the B-series uses a bigger water neck, so you either have to cut the stock D hoses and wrestle them on the B-series jackets, or use the B hoses and clamp the hoses tighter on the radiator.
 
I only put the b series rad in because I had a brand new one. The d series rad is single core and the b is dual. I just figured for cooling bigger is better. You only have to take a small notch out of the cross member to fit the b series rad so i figured why not. So if you can get a rad for cheap it is not difficult to fit it in.
 
pappaj said:
I only put the b series rad in because I had a brand new one. The d series rad is single core and the b is dual. I just figured for cooling bigger is better. You only have to take a small notch out of the cross member to fit the b series rad so i figured why not. So if you can get a rad for cheap it is not difficult to fit it in.
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You should post pictures of it for research reasons. Other people may not know where to notch or how to fit it in.
 
The best way is just to rest the rad in the car and make some marks, and start cutting a bit at a time until it fits with the hose on. The rad is light so it is not hard to put it in and out a few times. I could take some pics anyways I have to pull the motor again because I was too cheap to buy a new clutch before hand. I know, I know i'm pissed.
 
Just take the tranny out from the bottom. I have done that a few times, twice in my hatch and once in my rex. It's much easier than yanking the motor, however it doesn't give you much room to work under the car.
 
I was looking at that and wondering if that would work. That is really good to know I really do not want to pull the motor again, it was in and out enough times for framerail adjustments for the alternator pulley and putting the tranny mount in the wrong bolt holes. Do you have to take that stabilizer bar out that goes to the cross member or does it clear that.
 
pics would be great, if you have them, just curious whats the l-w-h of the notch approx. sorry to hear about your clutch that would piss me off too.
 
why did you have to adjust the fraimrails for the alternator pulley, was it swap related
 
QUOTE refering to a 91 crx si

oh and do you think im going to need to cut, weld, or dent anything to be able to make the engine fit in the bay? i found some page where the guy said he dent some part so the alternator would fit. i have no clue since this is my first swap u can call me a noobie at this swap stuff. dropped engines but never have swapped where i need to move mounts etc.
 
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QUOTE reply to question above

Yep you do need to make a dent for alternator pulley clearance, but you shouldn't need to cut or weld anything.

You need...

-Engine/trans/ecu of choice
-90-93 Integra axles
-90-93 integra 5speed intermediate shaft
-rywire jumper harness
-90-93 throttle cable
-shift linkage (hasport, innovative, avid, ebay)
-motor mounts (hasport, innovative,avid,ebay)
-cable tranny speed sensor
-90-93 integra drivers side engine bracket (94+ engine brackets won't work)
-90-93 integra rear transmission bracket, must be from a manual

You'll need to solder the 5 wires going into your resistor box. There should be 4 red and one yellow, solder them all together, and remove the resistor box.

You'll need to move/extend the fan switch connection from the back of the block to the side of the head.

The maf on your crx is firewall mounted. On your new engine it will be on the top of the throttle body. just unplug the 3 pin connector from the firewall, and move it to the tb.

And you will also want to remove the dust seals within your hubs to make clearance for your axles, otherwise they may bind up.
http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/29/97846269fd0.jpg

If your car is lowered you will need a ctr crank pulley (aka: crank pulley with just the ribs for the alternator), or have your b-series crank pulley's a/c and p/s ribs machined off. otherwise your crank will bottom out on the traction bar making right turns, and make a nasty grinding noise.

That should just about do it i think
 
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:huh:im tucking tires, is that going tocause a problem with integra axles are they going to be long enough, right now im running 92 civic axles beacause stock wasnt long enough, i want to do a ls/vtec, am i going to have to get taller springs
 
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