my first honda (89 hatch)

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Yep you do need to make a dent for alternator pulley clearance, but you shouldn't need to cut or weld anything.

You need...

-Engine/trans/ecu of choice
-90-93 Integra axles
-90-93 integra 5speed intermediate shaft
-rywire jumper harness
-90-93 throttle cable
-shift linkage (hasport, innovative, avid, ebay)
-motor mounts (hasport, innovative,avid,ebay)
-cable tranny speed sensor
-90-93 integra drivers side engine bracket (94+ engine brackets won't work)
-90-93 integra rear transmission bracket, must be from a manual

You'll need to solder the 5 wires going into your resistor box. There should be 4 red and one yellow, solder them all together, and remove the resistor box.

You'll need to move/extend the fan switch connection from the back of the block to the side of the head.

The maf on your crx is firewall mounted. On your new engine it will be on the top of the throttle body. just unplug the 3 pin connector from the firewall, and move it to the tb.

And you will also want to remove the dust seals within your hubs to make clearance for your axles, otherwise they may bind up.
http://img48.imageshack.us/img48/29/97846269fd0.jpg

If your car is lowered you will need a ctr crank pulley (aka: crank pulley with just the ribs for the alternator), or have your b-series crank pulley's a/c and p/s ribs machined off. otherwise your crank will bottom out on the traction bar making right turns, and make a nasty grinding noise.

That should just about do it i think

Hey, see what a little bit of research turns up? All that is correct, altough Ive never heard of having the crank pulley hit the traction bar.
 
not even if the car is lowered? has anybody heard of the crank pulley hitting the traction bar?
 
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Crank pulley hitting traction bar is new to me. The only dent you have to make is for the alternator, you don' t have to dent if you use a little shorter belt but it is better to dent it, it will make it easier to change the belt down the road. The only other thing is if you want to use teg rad then you notch front crossmember. This is not needed just something I did. Leave alternator on motor or install before axles go in, something I wish I knew before hand.
 
well thanks for any information that is going to save me headaches i really appretiate it, and what am i going to have to dent for the alternator? and do i need a big hammer?
 
Yea I've never heard of having to use the CTR pulley, or anyone ever hitting the traction bar. In fact there's a lot of controversy over using the CTR, I wouldn't use it unless you have the bottom end balanced.
 
i was having axle problems and still am, first i couldnt put the car in gear without them breaking, i did some looking around and realized that the passenger axle over extended when i lowered the car off of the jack, so i went to the part store looked at a few axles and found that a 92 civic axle matched and it was about an inch longer approx. driver side axle worked great. then i realized, i had a broken motor mount, the nut that threads on (underneath the car) by the inner fender well was completly knarled replaced it now it actually drives, (what a shocker huh:rolleyes:) now i have a squeek every once and a while, could the axle be to long? its mostly at low rpm . any help:mellow: no grinds or clicks by the way
 
whats a good name (fairly inexpensive) to go with when buying a turbo, if i want reliability,
 
:Dgot a b18a1 today, couldnt find a tranny though:(, interested in purchasing one if you know anyone:cool:, and a dohc vtec head also, would appretiate any help i can get thanks. of to the machine shop tomarow:D
 
whats a good and or the best head to put on my b18a1
 
ok i read a post by pissedofsol, and he was saying an ls with stock rods, p30 pistons and 403 cams some head work and tune 150whp. can u take away the 403 cams and go vtec with the p30's? and some vtec cams, could we push those numbers higher? and would the gains be woth it? can you run a vtec head with the p30's 11:1 compression? any info would be greatly appretiated
 
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