My Goal is 350-400 whp on a jdm gs-r block

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

JDMBurna

Junior Member
ok i just joined this site but have been checking it out for a while. the problem is ive been checking out alot of forums and its getting kinda confusing to me.
im looking for 350-400 whp out of my jdm gs-r block wich is going into my 94 hatchback civic, this is the setup im thinking of going with but i want to be completely sure because im looking for reliability as well as power and i dont want to just throw money away.

jdm gsr engine
84.5 mm bore
eagle rods
springs and retainers
new camshaft - possibly crower or skunk2
new pistons- crower unless someone can recomend a cheaper but reliable brand
skunk2 manifold
possibly a skunk2 catback exhaust system but not sure yet

then after all this (hopefully by end of summer, or winter time) i want to add a turbo kit along with intercooler and hondata (or another brand not sure yet)....

so now i would like to know...
with that setup i just listed can someone give me an estimate as to the whp i will get out of it BEFORE i add the turbo kit. (after a good tuning of course)
will it be reliable enough to run a turbo kit?
should i do something about the stock sleeves?
do i really need a new camshaft/why?
do i really need new pistons/why and if so do they come with stronger ringlands?
ive heard the 84.5 mm bore is good to go with , is this true?
will i reach my goal of 350-400 whp with that setup AFTER i add the turbo kit,intercooler and hondata? (rough estimate if possible)
and last question... once i do add the turbo kit i was thinking of saving some more money for a nex dry kit.... if i do get that will the engine still be reliable, and what kinda whp should i expect once i do get the nitrous?

i would really apreciate any input with this cause like i said im looking for reliability as well as power and dont want to be throwing my money away. thanks
 
your going to have to do somthing about the stock sleeves if you insist on going with 84.5mm. junk the junk2 exhaust and get a 3in kteller with a high flow cat and muffler. stay stock bore or.20 over. i dont think crower sells pistons do thay? but pistons are just preferance. pistons, rods, and maybe a jg mani custom kit with a big turbo abd you should be thurr. but if you have money to sleeve do it and you could have the 84.5mm bore you want.
 
well i was really just going to go with the 84.5 bore because ive read alot of people saying its good. can i get to 350-400 with just the stock bore and still have it be reliable? and yea crower sells pistons. i think there like 700$ so i was trying to look into a cheaper but reliable option

hey i see your from bristol ct? im from lawrence,mass. are you going to the hot import nights show in boston on april 29th?
 
reliable is all bassed on the tune itself. but you have to get it sleeved to get a 84mm. 700 is alttle expensive for pistons,i think you could get a set for 500 for cp's, wisecos or somthing like that. stock bore is plenty. hotrex on here just did 390whp on stock sleeves and bore with a b16.

hin.... its a posibillity. i went a few yrs ago and really liked it that and just going threw boston.
 
ok thanks alot for the input. so your not a fan of snunk2 exausts huh? there kinda expensive anyway, what about the skunk2 manifold? is it decent or can you recomend something better?
i guess ill just keep the stock bore for now. maybe one day ill tear it down again to get more horses but right now i think 350-400 will be fine and if i do get the nex kit im sure ill be crushing any local competition.lol
 
yeah skunk2 is just to small. 3in kteeler ftw. for n/a i would get the skunk2 but turbo i would go with the jg or somthing better.
 
yeah, you need to resleeve for an 84.5mm bore according to my product literature.

JE pistons and rings will run you between 550-600

Im also with Ere on this one, i dont think crower makes pistons, but ive definitely been known to be wrong.

because you are lowering the compression of your engine, you are probably not going to make more than 140HP after tuning (without a turbo). You need to make sure that you have something good to tune your engine with before you decide to change all the internals. if you say VAFC im gonna punch you. if you are about to spend 3 grand on an engine, you better not cheap out on the tuning. Hondata, Uberdata, AEM, Megasquirt, Fast or Crome. Those are your options. DO NOT DEVIATE :)
 
ok on crowers site they are sellin JE pistons, so i guess your right crower doesnt actually make them.

so if i dont bore the sleeves ill be lowering my compression?i wasnt sure what you ment by saying ill be lowering my compression.

when you say i wont get more than 140hp. is that 140 total or 140 in addition to the stock hp?if your saying ill only have 140 in total (before turbo) shouldnt it be more than that?exspecially with the jdm gsr?

and i know i need to get hondata or something just as good. once i get that and get the turbo kit and then have it tuned what will my whp look like then?

and this is probably a stupid question but once i do the internals, can i hold off on the tuning until i can get the money together for a turbo? or will that damage the motor in any way?
 
damm its around 2 thousand bucks for the aem unit? am i looking at the right one? is the hondata s300 good for 600$??
 
since you are going to lower you compression (or you had better be lowering your compression) tuning is definitely going to be required after you upgrade the internals. You are going to run rich as fuck if you dont and you will back fire your way to stares and laughs. while your starting platform is a GSR, your taking ONE OF (not the best) parts away from the engine, and that is its high CR. You are going to do that to AVOID BLOWING YA ASS UP. 10:1-11:1 compression ratio on a FI setup is NOT FUN. Not fun for you and definitely not fun for the guy who is tuning your car.

so when i say 140, i mean 140 total. your fancy GSR is about to get the same HP as an LS (B18B1). But you still have the high flowing GSR Head. and that my friend, is where the difference lies.
 
ok but that 140 will go up after the tune right?
and what about the aem unit, its 2 thousand bucks? why is the hondata s300 only $600?
 
because its not AEM. They know what the correct price point is.

The 140 is probably going to be with the tune...you might get a LITTLE more than 140, but i wouldnt say much more.

Believe me, its better that way.
 
so about $2,000 on the internals (maybe slightly less), $3,000 on the turbo kit, and another 600$ on hondata? and then ill only have about 250-300 horses? that doesnt sound right to me
 
lol...your upgrading internals and with a properly sized turbo. 400HP is EASILY in your grasp. there is a lot more reading to be done grasshoppa.
 
yea i know im just saying, if the internals will only give me 140 horses after tune, then i dont see how the right sized turbo would get me to 400 whp or am i wrong about that? i do bodywork anyway my brother in law is going to do the engine work for me. i just want to spend my money wisely and get the most power i can out of it.
i mean it seems like ill be spending 6,000$ on the internals,hondata,and turbo, then add in the 3,000 for the jdm gsr swap and the 1,000 i paid for the hatch. thats already 10,000$ and thats not including the price of a good tune and dyno testing.

and also....is the aem unit that much better than the hondata s300? if so that will put me near 12,000$. i only have about 6,000$ now that im willing to spend. this is why i get confused cause one person tells me one thing then another person tells me another. im thinking about just taking that money and putting a big down payment on a 3rd generation rx-7. i love honda though, i dont wanna go rotary.lol. and on top of that those rx-7s are hard to find
 
Hondata is more than you need believe me.

and if this is a DD car 10k is not a lot of money for 400HP. if this is a track car, spend another 1k and get an SC61 turbo and you can hit 600 (definitely need to be resleeved though)
 
Please excuse me if I'm offending you here, but it sounds like you're a total Noob to building motors and turbo's.

When you lower the compression your power n/a will be horrible! BUT, when you turbo a built bottom end it can handle a lot more boost then stock. Prolly double the boost a stock block can handle. That's where the real power is coming from, 400+whp.

I would start reading as much as possible about boosting cars. Also read a lot about building motors and what all these terms are(comp. ratio, bore, stroke...etc....)
 
yea i am a total noob so no offense taken. i do bodywork only. im just on here trying to get a general idea of what i have to do so that i can have my brother in law do the work for me (hes ASE certified). so dont get annoyed with me, how do i have him lower the compression? or will the compression automatically be lowered once he does the internals for me? and if it has to be manually done what compression rate should i go for? he will probably know how to do this anyway and how to test the compression right?
and then so i understand it correctly, once the internals are done, that n/a horsepower will be weak but once i add the turbo it will bring it up to around 400?
 
Back
Top