my new 1983 civc sedan!!!!
- Thread starter DESPAIN
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92stoccord
Big Member
I know, I just opened this thread up... scroll scroll scroll... bored now...
94civicturbo
Member
pics!!!
DESPAIN
yep....mmhhm.......yep...
HondaSwap Forums - DESPAIN's Album: 1983 civic sedan project sorry for the poor pics. will post better ones soon. here you go.....ps. need help with the throttle linkage. and now for some reason the feul pump fuse keeps blowing and the feul pump will not kick on. but it did before i took the old carb off? any ideas?
DESPAIN
yep....mmhhm.......yep...
it did not come with linkage. they said for me to use my old linkage....... but it will not fit. the hole is too small and its on the wrong side. the cable does not pull in the correct direction.... dont know what to do. i will take some good pics after work going to stop by and get my moms cannon.
78civic
Junior Member
When I used to do mine, I would grind a little more of a channel to the cvcc port in the front of the intake base. (small round hole, about 7/16") REMEMBER: that little port needs a RICHER mixture than the regular intake tract. I think I was going a little hotter on the plugs also..
(I've even cut that whole section out on a couple of mine to mimic the shape of the adapter) I can't remember which intake was best, but some of them would 'puddle' the fuel where it slopes down and when the driver would abruptly stop, it would flood the cvcc valve and die. And after it would evaporate, it would start again driving mechanics nuts and lighten customers wallets..
Turn the carb around to have the primary in the front and adapt the throttle cable accordingly. You have to cut off the little metal 'barrel' at the end to fit the plastic coated cable (strip back that plastic. it's FUN) (You can still find accelerator cables for them on Ebay if you mess up) With winter coming on, make sure it's got the electric choke (DGEV?), otherwise you will have to keep your foot in it 'til it warms up.
You will be able to get rid off tons of vacume lines and crappy air cleaner housing.
You can still get the 'right' jets and emulsion tubes for them from several Webber suppliers. Check out Grassroots Motorsports Magazine and look in their links or classifieds.
The 80-1/2 thru 81 accord EK, 1751 engine will swap in also with not many problems at all. JUST DON'T GET THAT EBAY CANADIAN HEADER.. IT WON'T WORK. You need.. I-EE-II-EE-I "double-dual" exhaust port configuration.
I think you can still order one from S&S headers for about 250.00
If you want, look for a 1980 (specifically GJ-86xxx BUT NOT after GJ-87xxxx)trans code for the close ratio 5spd, (basically a close 4spd with an overdrive) I'm thinking a 4.93 final ratio too.
And you can swap in later model 86-89 accord calipers/rotors If I'm not mistaken..
Get under the radiator and run a bypass wire on the fan sensor so it's running with the ignition "ON" or RUN.
They commonly blow the headgasket between 3-4.
You should already have the electronic dizzy BUT check out the vacume advance. I think you can still order the wagon one that puts the advance full in @28-3000??
Where the wires go into the dizzy, make sure they aren't cracked or broken and shorting out on the casting. Some were good (black rubber) and the white ones would get brittle and break off.
OOOHHH, I forgot one thing.. Pull the valve cover and check to see how the oil pump gear is that runs off the cam.. Do the teeth look warn? (the cam gear will look like a grinder was taken to it right down the middle of it) Silver oil leaking down around it?? If it's all clogged up with sludge you may want to run a qt of Marvell Mystery Oil every month or more.
that is if you don't want to rebuild..
You could always PM me your # and I'll talk you arm off..
E
(I've even cut that whole section out on a couple of mine to mimic the shape of the adapter) I can't remember which intake was best, but some of them would 'puddle' the fuel where it slopes down and when the driver would abruptly stop, it would flood the cvcc valve and die. And after it would evaporate, it would start again driving mechanics nuts and lighten customers wallets..
Turn the carb around to have the primary in the front and adapt the throttle cable accordingly. You have to cut off the little metal 'barrel' at the end to fit the plastic coated cable (strip back that plastic. it's FUN) (You can still find accelerator cables for them on Ebay if you mess up) With winter coming on, make sure it's got the electric choke (DGEV?), otherwise you will have to keep your foot in it 'til it warms up.
You will be able to get rid off tons of vacume lines and crappy air cleaner housing.
You can still get the 'right' jets and emulsion tubes for them from several Webber suppliers. Check out Grassroots Motorsports Magazine and look in their links or classifieds.
The 80-1/2 thru 81 accord EK, 1751 engine will swap in also with not many problems at all. JUST DON'T GET THAT EBAY CANADIAN HEADER.. IT WON'T WORK. You need.. I-EE-II-EE-I "double-dual" exhaust port configuration.
I think you can still order one from S&S headers for about 250.00
If you want, look for a 1980 (specifically GJ-86xxx BUT NOT after GJ-87xxxx)trans code for the close ratio 5spd, (basically a close 4spd with an overdrive) I'm thinking a 4.93 final ratio too.
And you can swap in later model 86-89 accord calipers/rotors If I'm not mistaken..
Get under the radiator and run a bypass wire on the fan sensor so it's running with the ignition "ON" or RUN.
They commonly blow the headgasket between 3-4.
You should already have the electronic dizzy BUT check out the vacume advance. I think you can still order the wagon one that puts the advance full in @28-3000??
Where the wires go into the dizzy, make sure they aren't cracked or broken and shorting out on the casting. Some were good (black rubber) and the white ones would get brittle and break off.
OOOHHH, I forgot one thing.. Pull the valve cover and check to see how the oil pump gear is that runs off the cam.. Do the teeth look warn? (the cam gear will look like a grinder was taken to it right down the middle of it) Silver oil leaking down around it?? If it's all clogged up with sludge you may want to run a qt of Marvell Mystery Oil every month or more.
that is if you don't want to rebuild..
You could always PM me your # and I'll talk you arm off..
E
(How have I not read this thread until now?!)
One gen older than I'm used to dealing with, but show us some clear pics of the linkage as it is now. You should see some of the Rube Goldbergian linkage setups some people have when it comes to carbs... You need to think outside the box.
One gen older than I'm used to dealing with, but show us some clear pics of the linkage as it is now. You should see some of the Rube Goldbergian linkage setups some people have when it comes to carbs... You need to think outside the box.