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My newest build for SCCA STL/HPDE's

Discussion in 'Auto Multi-Media' started by vtecsir1, Mar 17, 2011.

  1. vtecsir1

    vtecsir1 Senior Member

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    Updated Videos on last page

    I will be adding to this over time but I have begun the process and tear down of my current setup. SCCA has an STL class that Im trying to prepare my car for which I will document here. The class is Super Touring Light and allows motor swaps so its similar to NASA's H classes. This is more of a rebuild/makeover of my GSR build so I used a few of those photos too. I blew that motor up at the Redline time attack at Sebring which was a real bummer. I luckily saved my old b18b block from my old ls/vtec so that was the cheapest rebuild scenario for me. The plan is to build an n/a b18b within the specs of the class.

    Motul brake and gear fluids, Hawk ht-10 pads, brake ducts from honda-tech user jbs :thumbup:, skunk2 rear camber, blox rear toe, brake duct hose, b&m race shifter with spherical bearing which is one of the nicest additions I have ever made, and Progress Coilovers with 500lb progress/800lb hyperco springs which has been an amazing setup for the price Progress Technology: Anti-roll bars, sport springs, coil-overs, camber kits and more since 1995!. I showed my koni/gc for comparison between the 2 coilover setups.
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    Fast Brakes ITR front brakes......Its vague in the rules if these are going to be accepted or not but Im hoping they will let them pass.
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    Brake duct hose routed to the shock fork.
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    Hyperco are sweet, skunk2 rear camber kit as well
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    Sad face waiting for a new heart. That motor is now out of the car and I just need to get this finished.
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    Racetech 1000, the crow harnesses are gone and Im replacing them with Schroth Profi 2 6 point
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    Some of the new DOM roll cage next to the seat. That slider wont be used and is against the rules.

    Schroth window net and side roll bar harness.

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    Engine work begins
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    Adding some permatex lube to the new main oem honda bearings.
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    ARP rod bolts.
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    81mm RS machines USDM PR3 B16 pistons. The SCCA STL class so far allows 11.0.1 compression so this should put me right at or just under the compression using an OEM head gasket.
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    Main caps on just waiting for ARP main studs now....main caps are on backwards in this photo...oops I should know better.
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    ACL race bearings main and rod end but Im only using the rod end because of clearance issues. The rods I have all have Green oem bearings which equate to about the same as a std acl rod race bearing. I went with oem main bearings because my block had a few different colors so I didnt want to go to a machine shop. All in all the crank looks perfect and the bearings showed minimal wear so I think this should be a good setup.
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    New DOM main hoop
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    Oem honda gaskets, nuts and bolts. I also bought a brand new ob2 ls/gsr oil pump
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    Crappy iphone pics.

    Schroth profi 2 6 point
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    Sparco tide gloves
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    Trip back from Honda, I also picked up some plasti gauge because I dont know if its the permatex pre lube or what but I can barely turn the motor over without a lot of force. I had to get new rings because I frigging broke a ring during the install.

    I gave the cylinders a light honing because they looked pretty good already.

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    Measuring ring end gap which is right in between Hondas new ring limits of .20 -.35 these are .25

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    I will add some more stuff shortly.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2012
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  2. vtecsir1

    vtecsir1 Senior Member

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    Quick photo of the pivot sequential shift light I just picked up. Very hard item to find and couldnt pass it up even though its used.

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    ARP main studs and rod bolts. Interesting thing with the torque specs from ARP...oem is 56 ft lbs and they said 80 ft lbs for the studs. This ended up having the clearances way too tight to the point of binding. So I plasti gauged it and 56 ft lbs was perfect and just slightly loose on the tolerance. This is a race motor after all and not meant to last 100k miles.

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    I used Hondas OEM clocking specs for the most part. I moved one of the ring gaps to the other side of each piston to have a little less oil creep.

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    I spray the cylinder bores with wd-40 to help the install go smooth.
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    Tapping pistons into the bore. Be carefull and hold the ring compressor steady so you dont break any rings like I did!
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    Last edited: Mar 17, 2011
  3. invisibledemon

    invisibledemon Bored Moderator VIP

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  4. vtecsir1

    vtecsir1 Senior Member

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    Thanks!

    This came in today, I havent loaded photos of the kit but its identical to this. I dont mind buying ebay items and havent had any problems with them as long as the build quality is good.

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    I dont want to have another spun bearing or any issues on the track so I decided to add an oil cooler. If I see any issues with this setup I will remove it and buy higher quality components for some of it but I think for now this will be fine. The items look just as good as any I have seen. $150 total is a deal for a setup like this.

    I will be running my aluminum radiator as well so I dont think I will have any heat issues.

    Im out of photos at the moment so I will get into the build specifics.

    OEM ITR transmission I have had for years that I bought brand new from Acura
    B18B
    Hytech replica header
    Blox velocity stack on an intake I made out of ss
    PR3 B16 RS Machines pistons
    Stock Valves
    Brian Crower dual valve springs
    Brian Crower Titanium retainers
    Brian Crower Stage 2 cams....this is where I think I will surprise people in the class. The cam lift is limited to.425 which means basically for a GSR or B16 motor you are capped out with stock camshafts unless you want to get a set of cams and have them ground down to .425 to pick up like .003 lift or something like that.

    The type r motor/s2000 motor is banned from running in the class.

    The breathing of the motor will be my weak spot, stock intake manifold and throttle bodies. The head can be match ported an inch but Im not spending the money or doing that myself. Im not trying to win nationals or anything but would like to be competitive.

    Suspension which I touched on briefly:

    Progress coilovers 500/800 for now
    Skunk2 front and rear camber kits
    blox rear toe kit
    es bushings already installed
    beaks kit with jdm 23 mm itr rear sway bar....when or if I have some extra funds this will be changed to an ASR frame support with atleast a 26mm or maybe the 32mm hollow rear bar they offer.
    21 mm front sway bar from suspension techniques
    newer style oem rear trailing arm bushing....likely switch to a spherical if allowed (havent checked rules yet)

    Interior:

    Racetech 1000 seat
    schroth profi 2 6 point
    aem wideband
    oil, water temp, oil psi
    JDM white rpm in my USDM cluster...I like it
    Pivot sequential shift light
    10 point DOM cage which is going to be fun to weld in with a friend
    1 inch square tube box seat mount for fixed location
     
    Last edited: Dec 27, 2011
  5. Jeef

    Jeef NO MA'AM Moderator VIP

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    Good shit, that is a hell of a build
     
  6. vtecsir1

    vtecsir1 Senior Member

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    Thanks!

    I forgot this photo

    Sticking with my Honda theme.
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    3 layer nomex suit..holy hell its going to be hot in FL with this thing

    The items I still need to buy:

    Race boots
    AMB transponder
    Some new oil temp and oil psi gauges with warning lights
    some toyo ra1s for my kosei k1s
    HANS or DFENDER

    Outside of that I have everything pretty much, I have just been lazy or else this would be done.

    Feel free to critique or suggest...I know some of you have already been racing door to door. The one thing I cant do is upgrade to a better coil over for awhile but I can honestly say these smoke my koni gc combo I had granted they werent revalved konis.
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2011
  7. GSRCRXsi

    GSRCRXsi Super Moderator Moderator VIP

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    did you press in the rod bolts before installaion? or are you trying to pull them all the way in when you torque the nuts down?

    only reason i ask is im pretty sure you have to press them in, then get the rods resized as pressing them in distorts the rod and makes the end bore out of round. i had a machine shop press in my rod bolts and rebore them to be in spec for roundness again.

    also, the best way to "torque" the ARP rod bolts is by stretching them. ie, you mount up a dial indicator and measure the stretch of the bolt as you torque it down. this is the best way, and recommended by ARP. though they do provide torque specs too.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2011
  8. vtecsir1

    vtecsir1 Senior Member

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    The ls/d series rod bolt apparently doesnt need to have that done but I had them checked by an engineer friend that had the tools and they were within spec.

    The stretching of the main bolts was not done. I just went by torque specs and checked clearances which I believe will be ok.

    If I blow this motor up within the first 200 laps like the last one Im going to trade in my s2000 and sell my civic and get a chevy aveo as punishment. No offense to anyone that owns an aveo lol.
     
  9. GSRCRXsi

    GSRCRXsi Super Moderator Moderator VIP

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    i was talking about stretching the rod bolts. you cant measure stretch on the main or head studs because they are studs and you cant get the indicator on the end thats in the block. you can with rod bolts though since you have access to both the top and bottom of the bolt.
     
  10. B16

    B16 Super Moderator VIP

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    Only thing I see missing is a HANS. Get one.
     
  11. E_SolSi

    E_SolSi Member of the 20 nut club Moderator VIP

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  12. GSRCRXsi

    GSRCRXsi Super Moderator Moderator VIP

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    jesus christ E. how do you do it?

    lmao
     
  13. vtecsir1

    vtecsir1 Senior Member

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    LOL that pic, yes the Hans is the on list or the Dfender. I like the fact the Dfender was one size and had some adjustments when I tried it on...my wife watched the demo video and that was a requirement from her rule book even though SCCA doesnt require it until 2012.

    I let my buddy do all the rod bolt checking since hes done them a lot on his builds so I trust he knew what he was doing.
     
  14. TurboMirage

    TurboMirage YEEAAAHHH VIP

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    great build :thumbsup: everything looks so nice and clean too.
     
  15. B16

    B16 Super Moderator VIP

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    HANS > Defender

    Nice build. Which region are you in?
     
  16. B16

    B16 Super Moderator VIP

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    Question.

    What does your hose look like near the rotor? Here is how I mounted mine; but would like to improve it.

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  17. GlassHeadlights

    GlassHeadlights West West Yall

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    I love race builds :) This one is sick.
     
  18. vtecsir1

    vtecsir1 Senior Member

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    So as you know B16 front wheel drive cars suck when it comes to mounting cooling for the brakes because of the damn axles. So mine looks ghetto but oddly enough it held up fine for a couple events but I had some designs in mind for a thin aluminum mount.

    Basically I just cut a few corners with small holes and used small zip ties to angle the hose into a cone shape directing it at the rotor as well as allowing more clearance. Then I zipped tied it to the shock fork and it ligned up perfect with the rotor.

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    Why is the Hans better? Im in Orlando, FL so south east atlantic or something...not sure yet.

    Started stripping the interior out for real this time.
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    This is where I cut out part of my roll bar because it was erw and not dom...this sucked because I spent the time welding with my friend and fitting the roll bar not knowing at the time I should be using dom. So instead of just welding in the front of the cage I had to buy a new pre bent cage...wasted 400 on those materials and spent 900 for the new dom. I went with 1.75 x .0125 I think or.095 even though I could of gone with 1.5x whatever. This was the only option available for the pre bent and it should be a little safer.

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    Thanks for the comments and I updated the oil cooler pic with a real one because I couldnt stand that ebay pic.
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2011
  19. dc4dude

    dc4dude Member

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    nice build so far dude!!! not wanting to jinxx ya or anything, but if it does go kablooey, and you do end up trading in the s2k, and civic, are you going to race prep the aveo????? :rimshot:
     
  20. vtecsir1

    vtecsir1 Senior Member

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    Lol I wouldn't really buy an aveo! Although the new one isn't terrible like the old one.
     
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