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My OBD0 to OBD1 Conversion

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by ceehris, Dec 7, 2006.

  1. ceehris

    ceehris New Member

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    so heres the just of my story....
    I bought a 88 lx civic with a d16z6 already swapped in it, in non running condition. checked compression..good. motor turns over nice. blahblahblah.
    buddy was running the motor off a PM6 with a vtec controller. BOO:(
    so I am doing this swap correctly.
    I have all the correct parts I need and so on.
    -ecu conversion harness
    -p28
    -4 wire 02
    -obd1 dizzy
    -etc...

    I am starting this thread as I may need help along the way with certain things.

    Today.... I removed the old engine harness to start by inspecting all the previous dpfi to mpfi wiring to make sure its all done correctly so I can consider it reliable. I started cutting the massive amounts of electrical tape off the harness and his wiring is the most hidious shit I have ever seen. and trust me Ive seen some bad wiring! so this is where I am starting and I am going to do the dpfi to mpfi wiring all over again and along the way do any other necessary wiring needed.

    my first problemo is...
    It looks like he soldered a the obd0 si dizzy plug onto the harness and I want to check if he did it correctly. My problem is the colors do not match up with what they are supposed to be. So I am going to trace the wire back further, when I have time, to see if the person who did the swap possibly soldered on new wires for some reason. I will update this thread tommorow.
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2006
  2. Andrew

    Andrew Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    GL on the car!
    Can you take pictures?
     
  3. ceehris

    ceehris New Member

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    Nah dont got a camera
     
  4. ceehris

    ceehris New Member

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    UPDATE>>
    Okay so I figured out my problem with the dizzy wiring
    I pulled the loom down further and the previous owner did extend the wires
    so I checked the wires colors... alls good....solder job is real shitty so gonna redo the solders, then next check the rest of the harness (connectors, solders and wires for breaks)
     
  5. ceehris

    ceehris New Member

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    Today....
    -Checked all the rest of the engine harness. rewired a few things for better placement.
    -Installed the harness at work. redid the dpfi to mpfi wiring at the ecu.
    -wired in the 4 wire oxygen sensor, knock sensor, vtec solenoid, etc.
    - couldnt find a obd1 dizzy connector so I cut the connector from the obd0 dizzy and soldered it onto the obd1 dizzy!
    - connected the rywire ecu jumper and P28.
    - cranked her over. started up first crank!!
    - going to clean up some more wiring for finishing touches and thats it!
    I found this swap to very very simple as I am somewhat good at wiring, soldering, etc.
    Did all of this today. started @ 8AM finished @ 4PM no breaks at all
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2006
  6. Andrew

    Andrew Well-Known Member

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    Sweet! I'm glad to hear it's running!

    Oh, and btw,


    You should know better by now!! :p
     
  7. ceehris

    ceehris New Member

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    TYPO!!! VTEC
     
  8. ceehris

    ceehris New Member

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    I didnt connect the knock sensor yet and the engine light is not coming on? is this normal?
    also on the stock engine harness there is a one pin plug near the oil filter...what is it for? im stumped!
    I looked at the back of the engine and all I see is the knock sensor
     
  9. Andrew

    Andrew Well-Known Member

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    The d16z6's don't have knock sensor and iab sensors on the IM.

    if your talking about this plug:

    [​IMG]

    It's not needed on ANY motor except the D16A6 (si).
     
  10. ceehris

    ceehris New Member

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    so your saying a d16z6 doesnt have a knock sensor at all?
    also no that is not the plug I am talking about. it is a one pin (one wire plug) that is on the harness. also on the back of the engine there is a one pin sensor what is this sensor?
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2006
  11. Andrew

    Andrew Well-Known Member

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    That pin connector your talking about is the Oil Pressure sensor. (if pressure is too high, this wire makes the Oil pressure warning light come on in the cluster.)
    It's right above, and to the right a little bit of the fan-temp sensor(the one with 2 prongs you were talking about earlier).

    Only B series have Knock. Your good to go!
    The only thing different you should have to do with a z6 is wire in the VTEC wires, and the o2 sensor wires.
    1 for VTEC Oil Pressure switch, 1 for VTEC selenoid(which is the plug. One of the 2 wires coming out of the vtec plug is a ground), and 4 wires for the o2 sensor.
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2006
  12. ceehris

    ceehris New Member

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    okay thanks alot for the info. yea I got everything wired already. . yea the fan temp switch wires I already extended them to a coolant temp sensor when I rewired the engine harness. just wasnt sure about that sensor on the back of the block. I sorta thought it might be a oil pressure sensor. so looks like everything is good 2 go. motor runs awesome. just gotta figure out that timing belt noise!
    thanks for the help andrew appreciate it!
     
  13. Andrew

    Andrew Well-Known Member

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    NP man
    Is it pretty loud? If it's not that loud, I wouldn't really worry about it that much.

    Hows the belt tension?
     
  14. ceehris

    ceehris New Member

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    yea its quite loud! the belt seems too tight to me. but hard to really say. maybe the last guy who owned the car. tightened the tension tighter to tighten up a worn timing belt.
     
  15. racer_XX

    racer_XX New Member

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    nice job man good to hear u went threw and fixed a messed up project. hats off to u.
     
  16. Andrew

    Andrew Well-Known Member

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    You can access the tensioner pulley without taking off the mount and cover and all.
    It's a little plug on the lower Timing belt cover, just yank that plug out, take (IIRC) a 14mm socket and go to town!
     
  17. racer_XX

    racer_XX New Member

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    grab the timing belt in the middle between the crankshaft pulley and camshaft pulley (not the side where the tensioner is)and try to turn it around it shouldnt be able to turn more than a half. and if it refuses to move then to tight. they have belt tensioners to test the tension if u wanna be precise.
     
  18. ceehris

    ceehris New Member

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    really? so I can adjust the tension without even having to take the timing cover off eh! I read the spec on alldata and its 33lb-ft. so yea I guess I will check the torque of the tensioner pulley bolt and maybe re torque. regardless I will probably replace the timing belt as I do not know any history of the engine.
     
  19. Andrew

    Andrew Well-Known Member

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    Great! Replacing the Timing belt is always the BEST thing you can do to an unknown motor.

    $25 belt and a day's work > bent valves/blown motor
     
  20. tunedhonda-ata

    tunedhonda-ata im turbo bitch!!!!

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    i did the conversion on my bros rex it was simple w/ the conversion harness.. and im color blind
     
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