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N/A b18c1 all motor build

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by blackdahlia6, Jul 19, 2008.

  1. blackdahlia6

    blackdahlia6 New Member

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    Hi, im new here and i just wanted some opinons on this set up i am thinking of doing.

    Im buying a b18c1 gsr w/ LSD. i live in california and the only turbo kits that are legal are way too expencive and theirs still the chance of getting hastled by the cops and what not. So ive decided to build N/A.

    Im also wanting to keep this things street legal and smog approved.

    My set up im thinking of doing is:
    1993 b18c1 gsr w/ LSD
    p30 b16 pistons
    skunk2 stage 1 camshafts
    skunk2 cam gears
    skunk2 pro series intake manifold
    skunk2/aem fuel rail
    ACT clutch/ flywheel
    dc header
    aem cold air intake
    custom exhaust 2.5" w/ hks muffler

    Thats my set up.
    any opinions or negetive comments will be greatly appreciated.

    Im also wondering if this set up will net me around 200whp?
     
  2. blackdahlia6

    blackdahlia6 New Member

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    come on
     
  3. INJEN78

    INJEN78 HS LEGEND

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    what are you doing for valves,springs and retainers???
    or bearings??and hardware
     
  4. BrokenRex

    BrokenRex New Member

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    um... my first problem with your build, is that in 93 the GSR motor was a b17, not a b18c. and only a USDM motor will be smog legal i think. the engine/trans have to have serial numbers on them (a lot of importers cut off the ID tag on the bottom of the block) and the engine will need to be of the same year or newer than the vehicle you're putting it into. then you'll need to retain all the emission controls that came with that engine in that year. if you get all that sorted out, your build will likely be powerful, but probably not quite 200whp. the fuel rail is doing nothing for your build btw.
     
  5. blackdahlia6

    blackdahlia6 New Member

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    I was just going to get some stock replacement bearings..as for valves,springs, retainers..i was just going to leave them stock..i dont think the stage 1 cams would really need aftermarket, but if i were going to get the stage 2 i would deffinately be looking into them..another reason i was going to skimp out on springs/retainers was because the skunk2 seemed too overrated and expensive..if u could point me into the direction of some good low priced ones that would be awesome
     
  6. blackdahlia6

    blackdahlia6 New Member

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    haha i didnt mean to put 93..sorry, its a 94-97 b18c from hmotorsonline..im putting it into my 93 civic dx coupe..their are people i know who have a b18c1 in their civics and get them smogged but idk if they have jdm version..yes i know, ive had friends of mine have stock eg's and get a cold air intake and a fuel rail and tell me they get 5hp from the fuel rail haha..im just getting it because i cant stand a stock fuel rail on an aftermarket intake manifold..im getting it strictly for cosmetic perposes..im worried about getting a header and doing the exhaust though..(my dad told me that cali emission laws say aftermarket exhausts are legal if under 93 db and they dont move your catylic converter)..will a b18c1 header fit my civics catylic converter?
     
  7. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    Here's one thing I learned about an all motor build, and I haven't even built one before. This was learned simply by reading TONS of project threads and build threads.

    You CAN'T just throw parts at an engine and expect it to make power. If you want to build a reliable, powerful and efficient engine, you need to do TONS of research on which parts work best together. Its not always going to be the same brand, either.

    I'm not trying to be a dick here. Its just that I know an N/A build is expensive, and I'd hate to see you go buy parts and then be unhappy with the end result.

    A critical part of an N/A build is headwork. At least get it cleaned up so it flows more smoothly.
     
  8. blackdahlia6

    blackdahlia6 New Member

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    Thanks for the input. i know random parts that are sopposed to make power can contradict eachother and not finish with a good end result. Ive done alot of research and this set up seemed good to me because of the raise in compression and airflow and the most important part i was concentrating on was that all of these parts were carb certified and legal according to a list of californias aftermarket parts i found on an air resource board website...should i look into a mild p&p? i live in socal so i dont think it will be hard to find a respectable shop to perform this
     
  9. Luis998

    Luis998 Honda Enthusiast

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    DEFINITELY get your head ported and polished. If a reputable shop is doing it, then you "might" consider getting the combustion chambers re-worked. HOWEVER, from what I have learned, only a certified person/shop should touch your combustion chambers, as it can really screw your head up if they are not done properly.

    An easier thing to do is go into the shop, talk with them and let them know exactly what kind of power you are wanting to make. They will reccommend parts and write down a big number, letting you know what it is going to cost you in order to meet your goal.

    Skimping on parts should not be an option either. Skunk2 valvetrains have been known to breakdown many times over. If you are going to do things right, why not do them right and go ahead and replace your valvetrain. I would suggest PortFlow or OmniPower. They are very reasonably priced, as opposed to something like Ferrea, which is VERY good stuff.

    I'm at work, extremely stressed and half asleep, so forgive me if I don't make too much sense. Best of luck to you. Like I said, talk with the shop and they should be able to guide you the right way. I have a gazillion calls coming in so I must go now. Keep us updated.
     
  10. blackdahlia6

    blackdahlia6 New Member

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    thanks for your input. so i shouldnt go with the stage 1 cams? they are the only carb certified cams i know of. Should i just go with type r cams? ive been told the stage 1 cams only provide a tad bit more power than the type r's
     
  11. Luis998

    Luis998 Honda Enthusiast

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    That is going to be up to you my friend. Have you priced either set of cams? Also, what kind of header are you planning to run?
     
  12. blackdahlia6

    blackdahlia6 New Member

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    a quick search and the oem itr camshafts are about $300 and the skunk 2's are almost $700..im thinking of using a dc 4-1 stainless steel header
     
  13. Luis998

    Luis998 Honda Enthusiast

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    Oooooo, that's WAY too much. Try checking out evasivemotorsports.com on Honda-Tech. They gave me the greatest price on my Skunk2 stage 2 turbo cams. I would also consider a different header as well, just because of the reputation that preceedes DC.
     
  14. blackdahlia6

    blackdahlia6 New Member

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    on that website they were $550 so thats a great money saver..but the ITR's are only $300..do you think the minimal power gain is worth the extra $250?
     
  15. blackdahlia6

    blackdahlia6 New Member

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    well the site i found the type r cams for was a f***ed up site and they had a picture for both intake and exhaust cams but they were only listing the exhaust cam..i found a site that sells both together and its 570..i think im just going to go ahead and go with the skunk 2 cams then if they are only 550 at evasivemotorsports.com
     
  16. Luis998

    Luis998 Honda Enthusiast

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    Personally, the difference is $250 which you could allocate elsewhere in order to help meet your goals. Hey now, how about upgrading the valve train to an ITR valve train as well? :D Or even better, helping you pay off your headwork?

    Screw buying the ITR's from a site. Check out Craigslist as well as this site and others alike. Chances are someone out there has them for a good price. As far as Evasive goes, try finding their post on Honda-Tech and actually PM or IM them. They will talk with you and give you a price. The price they gave me on my cams was much lower than the site and it included shipping. I believe the two guys on there are either Geoff or Dennis. Really cool people that are willing to help if you ask me.

    Just do yourself a favor, if you decide to upgrade your valve train, stay away from Skunk2.
     
  17. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    If you are just going to stay with a mild build, a DC will suffice (more of a budget header). If you are looking for a higher quality header, Rage or SMSP (I think it is).
     
  18. Luis998

    Luis998 Honda Enthusiast

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    What about something like a Megan instead of a DC, Matt? What is your take on that?
     
  19. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    i would recommend a hytech replica header. you can get one used for a good price
     
  20. Luis998

    Luis998 Honda Enthusiast

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    Good call. :thumbsup: I was going to suggest the original Hytech, but as we all know, that isn't the best header for a budget minded build. haha
     
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