need advice

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delsolproject112

New Member
I have that book. It's a decent source of information but honestly it doesn't tell you anything that you can't probably find pretty easily on the internet.

As for what swap is best, what's your budget? Power goals?
 
that books is pretty good. but like brutal said u can get it all on here for free. if you insist on buying it you can get it cheaper at autozone. and me personaly i have a 93 sol with a b18 ls motor. i like it. it was cheap to swap 2.
 
no real power goal but i want more then the d16z6 i was looking at b16a3 or like the above post b18 budges about 2000$
 
no real power goal but i want more then the d16z6 i was looking at b16a3 or like the above post b18 budges about 2000$

A B16 will probably work best for you then considering your budget. A B18A or B18B will also fit that budget, but no VTEC. With the B16 you'll get VTEC and the option to upgrade to a larger block later.

And yeah, if you want that book look on Amazon. You can probably find it used for cheap...
 
Im with Brutal. Go for the B16 now and enjoy it, then as learn more and get some more money built up you can always build a better block on the side, and swap again later.
 
Im with d16 the b20 is a very good base motor and you can always do the b20/vtec swap (same as lsvtec but better) I'd throw a gsr head get it decked milled ported etc... But if you can afford and type r head that would be better
 
if you are going to be doing head work any way, then there is no point in starting with an ITR head... you will be removing everything that makes the ITR head special (cams and mild port work)
at that point you would be better off saving your money and getting a B16 or GSR head and working with that

the B18C/R is a great engine, in stock form... with a few bolt ons it can be made even better...
but it is not a "good starting point"... if you are going to be ripping it apart and making all sorts of changes to the internals, then starting with an ITR swap is a waste of money...
 
All good points. Id still start with a B16 or GSR, then your already halfway to a LS/V swap when your ready for it. And your not out a ton of money, still more than a LS though.

EDIT: If I had a GSR or B16, the only reason Id go for an LS/V swap would be for more displacement.
 
if i already had a GSR there is no way in hell i would be swapping out that bottom end for an LS one... the minor increase in displacement is not at all worth it (IMHO)

at that point keep the GSR bottom end with the girdle and the oil squirters and if you want more displacement bore and sleeve it... while you are in there get some real compression going on (12.5+ : 1 or if you have e85 readily available you can get away with going somewhere north of 14:1 **with proper tuning of course** )... then slap a nice chunky set of cams in there, port and polish the shit out of the head and upgrade the rest of your valvetrain... done and done

there are not many (none that i can think of really) circumstances that i would consider an LS bottom end an "upgrade" over any of the flavors of B18C

and with a B16 i would still look for a GSR bottom end before an LS one
 
I didnt say swap for a stock LS. In post 6 I suggested buildin one on the side.

Id swap for a built, sleeved LS block with a lot of bore. Not just .2 liters more either lol.
 
boring is meant to clean up cylinder walls that are so muffed up a hone won't fix them. it's not intended to make an appreciable output in engine displacement. you're only generally taking off 40 thousandths of an inch at most. that will not make a dent in an engines output.
 
With a sleeved block and bore alone you can achieve 2 + liters. Thats a sizeable enough step from 1.6.
 
what i was getting at is boring alone you generally will not affect output. if you are swapping out the entire sleeve however then yes it is much thicker and you have more material which can be taken off. in the 3-6mm range usually.

your stats are a bit off though. you won't go from a 1.6 to over 2.0l. b16's with a reliable 84mm bore becomes a 1.8l. and with a b18 you can get to a max of about 2.1.
 
Your not reading everything Im writing, so Im just gunna quit tryin.
 
if you are going to be doing head work any way, then there is no point in starting with an ITR head... you will be removing everything that makes the ITR head special (cams and mild port work)
at that point you would be better off saving your money and getting a B16 or GSR head and working with that

the B18C/R is a great engine, in stock form... with a few bolt ons it can be made even better...
but it is not a "good starting point"... if you are going to be ripping it apart and making all sorts of changes to the internals, then starting with an ITR swap is a waste of money...

no what i said Sol was get a b16 head or gsr head and do port work i didnt say get an irt head and do port work...
 
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