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cadence beastmaster is a badass sub to if you want a badass system go with a cadence daytona 2500 series amp with a cadence beastmaster 15. my friend hit 151 db with his in a comp.
 
Not doubting Cadence. My one Crossfire 12 was beat by a girl with 3-15" beast and a cadence amadeus, usaci stock 0-600. but only by 2Db
 
c-rex-beat said:
Was asking because I have one used and one brand new if anyone is interested. I am really familiar with crossfire. I had one in this crx ported box @3.15ft @48 htz doing 145.8 usaci stock. I now have a DD 9518g and doing same numbers with half the power tuned to 57 htz. I do a lot of SPL comps. It is rumored that Crossfire is now the makers of FI, well you know how all that B.S. works. And also, you forgot to mention the Atomic apocoplypse sub WITH FLAT WOUND COILS! 1 10" on 4800w 152.7dB in a crx!!!
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Yeah, Rexes are crazy loud. I could totally see an Atomic doing a 152 in one. In my van, I peaked at 144.8 with a Kicker L7 15" in 4.5 @ 34 and a Lightning Audio X1.2000.1D. It was pretty sick for a daily system. I had an AudioQue HD3 and it was really loud, but I never got it on the meter. Was a lot louder to the ear.
 
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Does anyone want to stay on topic here??? Anyone else have any idea why he is melting fuses? Has he got it fixed yet?
 
Considering there really is no topic, it's hard to stay on one.

And we did help him, we told him to fix his ground wire and then to see what happens.
 
the reason he is melting fuses is because his inline fuse is bigger than the fuse in the amp. He has the amp wired down further than it is supposed to be and thus overheating the amp which is not only blowing but melting the fuse. If he had the correct fuse inline it wouldnt be a problem because it would blow that fuse first if he was drawing to much current like he currently is doing.
 
neonmike said:
the reason he is melting fuses is because his inline fuse is bigger than the fuse in the amp. He has the amp wired down further than it is supposed to be and thus overheating the amp which is not only blowing but melting the fuse. If he had the correct fuse inline it wouldnt be a problem because it would blow that fuse first if he was drawing to much current like he currently is doing.
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the inline is suppose to be bigger than the one in the amp... by a lot
 
caboose said:
the inline is suppose to be bigger than the one in the amp... by a lot
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ummmmmm wrong it is supposed to be equal to the rating of all combined fuses in the amps that your running. ie if you have two amps one has a 30 amp fuse and one has a 20 amp fuse you should have a 50 amp fuse inline. if your giving out advice like this i wouldn't let you mow my lawn.
 
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I havent been driving the car lately, and I havent done anything with it yet, but Im going to go with what people have been saying. Smaller inline fuse, bigger ground wire.
 
neonmike said:
ummmmmm wrong it is supposed to be equal to the rating of all combined fuses in the amps that your running. ie if you have two amps one has a 30 amp fuse and one has a 20 amp fuse you should have a 50 amp fuse inline. if your giving out advice like this i wouldn't let you mow my lawn.
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The little fuse that's in the back of the amp is only like 20a. If you ran 20a in line with your amp wires you would blow it.
 
ok so you showed a chart on how to determine what gauge wire to use do you want a cookie, cause that still doesn't show anything about a fuse size.
 
Well thought that was kinda self explanitory. The amps required by your system is on the left. You pick your wire gauge based on that. The current (amps) that travels through the wire to the amp must pass through the inline fuse. If you don't run a big enough inline fuse, then you are going to blow the fuse before you reach the maximum current that is allowed through the wire.

I'll take my cookie now bitch.
 
If your amp uses 50a fuses, then put a 55a or 60a inline fuse as close to the battery as possible. I would just use the same size fuse or just slightly bigger.
 
He only THINKS he knows everything. Unlike his title, most of us know the difference.

Neonmike, don't you do this stuff for a living, or have done it as a means of livelihood before?
 
yep this is what i do everyday. been doin it for about 12 years now but i have no idea what i am talking about.
 
Well I hate to burst some bubbles, but the inline fuse doesn't necessarily have to be bigger or equal to the amp's fusing. If you have an amp fused at 50A and put a 100A fuse on it or if you're running an amp fused at 50A and use a 40A fuse, you're not putting your amp in danger. The only consequence of having a fuse too small is that the amp can pull more current than the fuse is designed for, and pop it. It won't harm the amp, but could be annoying.

The purpose of the fuse under the hood is to protect your battery, alternator, and the rest of your electrical system. If your power wire's jacket is worn through, and the wire grounds out, the fuse under the hood protects your electrical system. The fuses on your amp, on the other hand, are to protect your amp from a short. Again, in the event of a short, the fuses will pop.

Another reason amp fuses pop is that your amp is pulling more current than it is designed for. This is often caused by wiring the amp to an ohm load lower than what it is designed for, or cranking the gains to the point that the amp is forced into clipping. One other reason amp fuses pop is that an internal component of the amp has burned out and is causing a short circuit.
 
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jmanpc said:
Well I hate to burst some bubbles, but the inline fuse doesn't necessarily have to be bigger or equal to the amp's fusing. If you have an amp fused at 50A and put a 100A fuse on it or if you're running an amp fused at 50A and use a 40A fuse, you're not putting your amp in danger. The only consequence of having a fuse too small is that the amp can pull more current than the fuse is designed for, and pop it. It won't harm the amp, but could be annoying.

The purpose of the fuse under the hood is to protect your battery, alternator, and the rest of your electrical system. If your power wire's jacket is worn through, and the wire grounds out, the fuse under the hood protects your electrical system. The fuses on your amp, on the other hand, are to protect your amp from a short. Again, in the event of a short, the fuses will pop.

Another reason amp fuses pop is that your amp is pulling more current than it is designed for. This is often caused by wiring the amp to an ohm load lower than what it is designed for, or cranking the gains to the point that the amp is forced into clipping. One other reason amp fuses pop is that an internal component of the amp has burned out and is causing a short circuit.
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yes you are right it does protect the battery but you are not supposed to put a 100 amp fuse in it if the load is only 25 or 30 amps, because when you do wire the amp up so the ohm load is more than the amp can handle it is supposed to pop the front fuse before the one at the amp when it draws to much current. hence the point of fusing it as close to or a little above the fuse rating on the amp.
 
neonmike said:
yes you are right it does protect the battery but you are not supposed to put a 100 amp fuse in it if the load is only 25 or 30 amps, because when you do wire the amp up so the ohm load is more than the amp can handle it is supposed to pop the front fuse before the one at the amp when it draws to much current. hence the point of fusing it as close to or a little above the fuse rating on the amp.
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The one on the amp should be the first one to go. That's why they're there... to protect the amp. The one up front is to protect the battery.
 
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