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NEED Electrical help ASAP

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by elvis8310, Apr 6, 2008.

  1. elvis8310

    elvis8310 New Member

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    Ok, I installed a new engine about a week ago. I had a b18b obd1 and went to a b18b obd2. I used the same harness in the swap. The harness is from a 97 civic ex obd2. The car was charging before the swap but now it is not. I am using the same alternator on the new engine as was used before. It is an obd2 alternator high out put. I have changed alternators to the one that came with the engine but still no charge. I disconect the lead wire from the fuse box to the alternator and the wire reads at 14.4 at 3000 rpm. When you hook it back up to the fuse box it does nothing. I have no batterie light when i turn the ignition on so I did the ground the white and blue wire and it turns on as stated in the manual. The manual dones not tell you why the light does not work or were to check as to why it does not turn on. I have cleaned and checked all the ground wires and the work just fine. I have also changed ecu's with another one to see if it was the problem but nothing different.

    Ok, this is what I have done so far, now were else can I look? People throw me a bone and help a lost mechanic ok. I have had 4 other people try to help me and they are lost also. I need my car to drive and well am lost as to what else to do to fix this car.
     
  2. custompainter

    custompainter drive it like U stole it

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    i had a simular problem last year found it to be a blown fuse under the dash
     
  3. Lee7pcNOOb

    Lee7pcNOOb New Member

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    umm try the crank bypass trick, did you use an obd2a to obd1 convertor on the harness? what ecu are you using? and all are your plugs from the old wiring harness plugged up, what modifications did you make to the old harness?
     
  4. elvis8310

    elvis8310 New Member

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    Ok, stock harness was not modified at all. I tried the stock obd1 ecu with a rywire obd2 to obd1 reducer and the stock obd2 ecu, nothing changed. I have also replaced that fuze under the dash and no change. The plug wires are new as well as the plugs, but wha would that have to do with charging? The car starts and runs fine, just no charge from the altornator when it is hooked up to the fuze box.
     
  5. OKCZombie

    OKCZombie Banned

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    check all of your fuses and you might check your grounds...sounds like either a fuse is blown or something doesn't have a good connection.
     
  6. toqeer1986

    toqeer1986 New Member

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    might be the wire pins in the loom plug, which kept giving me a code 3 and 5 but after soldering the wires with heatshrink sleves sorted probs check if it outputs any code from the ecu ............. worth a try
     
  7. elvis8310

    elvis8310 New Member

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    Ok will try that also as nothing else has worked so far.
     
  8. eg6dx97

    eg6dx97 New Member

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    im pretty sure that the obd2 is a 4 wire alternator when the obd1 is a 3 or 2 wire im not esactly sure but u may have to do some switching if you dont go back to an obd2 if it still does it and it doesent charge grounds some times can work loose. theres also main fuses in the underhood fusebox that ive had problems with and get a GOOD battery because ive had many problems with my batterys they dont hold charges i finnaly fixed the problem i think there were shorts in the lines but i would check all grounds make sure they are all metal to metal if u need to run a ground directly from the negetive side of the battery then i would do that also . if not then it may be that the factory wireing isnt desinged for the particular alternator and you may have to rewire the oder of the wires.. i did mine about 3 or 4 years ago so i dont remember what all we needed to do. I was dumb and got an obd0 b16a from an 89 or 88 CRX SIR from japan so i had to go through the whole learning process about how bad of a plan that was. we had to eventually go to all obd2 sensors now its a mix match of parts an od2 head with obd0 block and pistons, then ITR cams obd2 ecu with a conversion jumper to take care of the different order the wires go to the differnt sensors from the D16y7 to the B16a motors, it has a b18 gsr transmission, I grafted a tail from a giraff and the paws of a tiger and i think the head of a gorilla, JK ne ways its a cluster scew but we managed to get it to work we got all sorts of manuals and wireing schematics to go along with it we actually had the starter solinoid go out also we had to get a new one but good luck ! the swap journey is a rough one but in the end if you keep on it its a great thing
     
  9. eg6dx97

    eg6dx97 New Member

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    OH one of the reasons we went to obd2 is the Dioagnostic codes on it tell you more spacifically than an obd1 code does so it tells you if you have a fault, or you have low signal, sensor malfunction, high imput sorta lets you know whats going on exsactly in the sensor that helped alot to pinpoint the problems to solve them more easily plus the diagnostic tools for obd2 are cheaper lol
     
  10. monotech909

    monotech909 Got V-tec?

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    Your better off staying OBD-1 less hastle and better off with more tunning options. Just put your OBD-1 distributer back in and run your stock p75 ecu and call it a day.
     
  11. elvis8310

    elvis8310 New Member

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    I have a rywire obd2 to obd1 in the car as I type. I installed the new harness and no change with my charging problem. What else can I do!!!!!!!!!! I think I have tried all there is. PLEASE SOMEONE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  12. elvis8310

    elvis8310 New Member

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    Ok, would powder coating the mounting brackets have anything to do with my problem? I have so far changed all grounds, the engine harness, alternator, ecu, dizzy, and all fuzes in the car(i mean all of them). Were else can I look to find my problem? When the lead wire is disconected from the fuze box the alternator works, but when I reconnect it it stops. I hope this helps to find my problem.
     
  13. elvis8310

    elvis8310 New Member

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    Ok what about the fuze box? Isn't there an external load detector in it? Could this have gone bad?
     
  14. elvis8310

    elvis8310 New Member

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    Ok just read on Honda tech that the mounts are the grounds for the alternator. Mine are powder coated blue with no metal showing. I will clean them off tomorrow and see if this fixes it.
     
  15. eg6dx97

    eg6dx97 New Member

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    engine mounts shoulnt make a diff because they have rubber bushings but you do need to check you ground every where i had ground problems and the wire was connected to the frame i just had to clean the connections and it worked... other than that id check the connections.. some times in my case i soldered alot of it.. so if you have a cold solder the electrons wont flow correctly due to the improper heating of the solder the molecules form like a nasty cluster fuck instead of a nice clean stream.
     
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