NEED HELP PLEASE B16A2 Into 96-98 CIVIC EX

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Lee7pcNOOb

New Member
Specs: B16A2 Swap Into 1997 Civic Ex
D16y8 Stock Harness

Problem#1
Fuel Emmision Sector.

Charcoal Canister (EVAP Canister) Outlet has no spot on intake manifold. On d16y8 engine it connected to a purge control 2 way sensor valve shown in pic. There is one spot on my intake manifold that doesn’t have a home.(also shown in pics)On the B16a2 the cut harness only had4 fuel injectors with no spot for the Purge sensor valve. Since im using my stock harness the purge control sensor valve hangs above my fuel rail shown in pic below.
Evap canister line


Spare intake manifold connection


Stock d16y8 two way purge valve


Spare PCV sensor didn't come with JDM


This is what the JDM motor looked like, because I used D16y8 stock harness the extra PCV sensor hangs above my intake manifold-fuel rail.



Problem#2 There is an extra sensor connection with no home right above my transmission. Ive already extended H02 sensor and connected block sensor.




There is another sensor behind my intake manifold of b16a2 that doesn’t have a home either.




Problem # 3
the people who shipped my motor cut off shift linkage so im having severe problems getting pin out im going to get an 8mm punch.





Any help with any of these issues would be greatly appreciated. This is all I need to get the swap done.





Can I get rid of my charcoal canister? Do I really need it? Can I run without those sensors connected? Are those serors shown above knocks sensors or something?
 
OK SO I JUST FOUND OUT.... that the guy shipped me a JDM B16A SIR2 INSTEAD OF THE USDM b16a2 that i asked for.... fucking bitch. im frustrated i dont know the differences in the connections and dont have any leads on a solution. Only thing ive found so far is that jdm motors dont utilize all of the emmisions equipment/sensor that usdm cars do.


BUMP
 
First of all this looks like a total nightmare. There is no difference between the emissions controls. Every sensor should have a place to go. The hose leading from the EVAP cannister should go in the same place as in the picture. You should put the plastic shell back on the loom for the fuel injector plugs. One question; did you take the time to label your harness as you removed it from your old engine? My guess is no! The reason that plug hanging over your fuel rail won't fit, is that it's the wrong plug. I have done many a swap and never had that many problems. My car was a 92 DX and I used the DX harness. You missed a bunch of steps along the way.
 
Well thx for takinga look, the intake manifold taht came with the motor had the old harness on it but it was cut off the plstic shell didnt cover the manifold wires, =/ i know sucks. this intake manifold did not come with the 2 way evap sensor valve. coming off a 1997 civic ex that hose in the picture connected to the 2 way sensor valve and the sensor in the middle of the intake manifold connects to that 2 way sensor valve. i have the wires all in the right place according to the helms manual by color and plug. I double checked. There are just those 2 plugs that have no home, maybe im missing something? yea i know wiring is a nightmare but i will clean it up im just trying to verify that all the plugs have a place to go.
 
Anyone else have any thoughts of the b16a sir 2 manifold? why is there no extra sensor on my manifold like every other manifold? P2t
 
sweet someone with the exact same problems with me. im swapping a 99 jdm b16b in. what you have to do for that extra connection that hangs about your fuel rail is cut it off and then grab the connector from the harness that came with the motor and sodder it in. the colors of the two wires on the two different plugs should be the exact same. and with the research i did it dosnt look like you have to move any pins for your ecu. the plug that you have pictured in the 6th pic form the top looks like the second vtec solonoid connection. in process of my swap i realized that the vtec solonoids are different. look at your old one and see if it has 1 or 2 connections, and then look at your new one. if they are different, the good news is that you can just swap them, if they are the same, then i am completely wrong and just waisted all this typing. as for the other plugs that have no home, im looking into that tomorrow moring at the honda place. ill post tomorrow what i find. checkin on the evap canister thing too....cuze i have the same problem
 
sweet someone with the exact same problems with me. im swapping a 99 jdm b16b in. what you have to do for that extra connection that hangs about your fuel rail is cut it off and then grab the connector from the harness that came with the motor and sodder it in. the colors of the two wires on the two different plugs should be the exact same. and with the research i did it dosnt look like you have to move any pins for your ecu. the plug that you have pictured in the 6th pic form the top looks like the second vtec solonoid connection. in process of my swap i realized that the vtec solonoids are different. look at your old one and see if it has 1 or 2 connections, and then look at your new one. if they are different, the good news is that you can just swap them, if they are the same, then i am completely wrong and just waisted all this typing. as for the other plugs that have no home, im looking into that tomorrow moring at the honda place. ill post tomorrow what i find. checkin on the evap canister thing too....cuze i have the same problem


HEY MAN thx alot i really hope that you can help me out with this problem because on the jdm intake manifolds they dont have the extra sensor for the 2 way purge valve which the canister initailly hooks up to. If you where to connect that 2 way vale where would the exit go to? cool im still reasearching so maybe we can help eachother out cause im still reasearching.
 
The exact name of the missing part from the intake manifold is called the purge cutoff solenoid valve which connects to your canister and intake manifold, the extra wire connects to you valve, im not shure yet where you can just cut it of and soder the wires. Bump... someone else has to know.
 
Feeding more info to the topic


After reasearching....
i found out that the JSPEC b16a sir2 does no have a crackcase sensor...which is the sensor that has no home which is behind my block hanging and sensor by the transmission underneath the vtec solenoid is the vtec oil pressure switch which is also not located on the block of the jdm b16a sir 2.
 
Yea the CKF trick is complete, that bitch of a pin is out with the penalty of a cut above my eye but i think the cuss words did the trick. Umm for some reason my vtec solenoid doesnt have a vtec pressure switch. Can i ground the black wire and run the other green stripped on to the solenoid?

just found out after calling peter from rywire that i have an OBD2a p2t , off civic vti europe? or 96-97 del sol obd2a
 
the b16b only had the single wire. im trying to figure this one out also. i wired it up where it is supposed to go so hopefully that will work. now im just having a problem getting the stupid thing to start. got fuel, got spark, got air. no start.
 
Try to start it without vtec hooked up?
Well i just basically found out some more you can short out the vtec pressure switch....

how did you get rid of that extra oxygen sensor? did you cut it off? A guy told me to scrap the 2 way valve and charcoal canister all of it and deal with the check engine light.

Some b16 Engine vtec is controled solely through the solenoid only no pressure switch. ( IF YOU ARE USING A JDM/EUDM ECU)
stupid american (USDM) ecu's check for too much shit. im amer fyi =). Try a jdm ecu at last chance.

Ok.... My car is OBD2a, I have a P2T-003 OBD2a ECU , used in CTR and 96-97 and can be used with B16A3 del SOls. Sometimes calling honda helps =/ So i didnt need the stupid conversion harness.... however the ecu i ended up with is quite rare. because of this i might not have to wire the cks bypass trick. im going to start it pretty soon. ill keep you updated man.
 
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yea...i have the jdm b16b and mines a 99 so its obd2a. well at least now i know that i only need that one wire on the vtec. yea and ive got the ecu of a ctr also, that would be nice if i didnt have to do the cks trick. now that i think of it i dont think you would have to cuze if you are using a computer that was off an engine that dosnt have a cks and have an engine that dosnt have a cks, then why would you need to do it??
 
well im not ganna do it, im cranking it this weekend =) in 3 days or so. however i didnt change the timing belt/water pump/tensioner. i just change the exhaust gasket and pcv and hoses thermostat... ganna see if it run well if so then ill waste all my money on the timing belt/waterpump change.


Keep me posted, you get yours to turn yet?
Yea i only have one wire on my vtec as well, by the way what did you do to the vtec pressure switch that was on your original harness? (considering you only needed on wire going to the solenoid)
 
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Well good as gold.

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I got it all done and figured out thx to you fellas with the elite tech help. (a couple months ago =) ) B16aII obd2a, P2T obd2a ecu, LSD tanny flies way better than my pos d16y8. Now i want more =/
I also did a 99-00 front end conversion with crystal clear blackhoused.
img00264go0.jpg

And threw some 16's on there painted the rims with duplicolor graphite color.
img00268xj4.jpg



I was told that b16a's usually dont handle 12lbs of boost very well so i was wondering from those who actually have turbo or modded your b16a's

Allmotor option: Cam's, camgears, headers, port and polish
how much would that actually run

Turbo: i was looking at greddy if i did, but im pretty scared because this is my daily driver and i dont want to do anything to it that it wouldnt be able to handle. Yea its cool to have turbo but i want it to last im not looking at n e thing more than 250 to the wheels thats about it. Any people with experience shed some insight on this?
 
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