Need help with b16A knocking in motor

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crxjapb16

SAILORMAN
I recently developed a knocking in my b16 after driving ten hours from KY to VA. I don't know what it could be, except myabe a rod, valve, or belt tensioner. It's making my knock sensor go off. It's more of a rattling kind of knock. It's coming from the first cylinder. can anyone help???:(
 
If the car was driving fine before it may have spun a bearing. If you have any other codes thrown take care of them and see if it helps. Other then that I would check all of the tune up items such as cap, rotor, plugs, and wires to make sure they are all in good order. Also check your ignition timing. If everything checks out then you probably spun a bearing out.
 
i have the same problem wend i have drive the car turn it off then wend i start it agian makes that sound
 
i had the same problem with my ls/vtec but mine would only do it when its idling..... i had a act 6 puck clutch and my throw out bearing cracked on the mounting side.. and it would only do it when it was idling.. but when u put the clutch in it would go away... i thought i had a rod knock cuz it was freashly rebuildt but nope that was it scared the hell out of me.. now i have a stage 1 clutch cuz its my DD and my g/f drives it every once in awhile so i had to put it in... never know...
 
most likely you spung a bearing! that's what happen to my lsvtec setup...had a knocking noise after driving for a while and I replaced the bearing and the same thing happen I guess I was pushing my car too much that when I replace the bearing the cranck was too warn out and that cause the crank to loosens the rod no matter how tigh I tighten it..
 
Reach for the timing belt and see if it is extremely loose. It is probably not your tb tensioner, unless the spring is broken. If you drove all those miles with a really low oil level, than its a good chance that you may have damaged bearing/s. But if your getting a knock sensor code, than you need to find out whats wrong quickly and do not drive it whatsoever.
 
most likely you spung a bearing! that's what happen to my lsvtec setup...had a knocking noise after driving for a while and I replaced the bearing and the same thing happen I guess I was pushing my car too much that when I replace the bearing the cranck was too warn out and that cause the crank to loosens the rod no matter how tigh I tighten it..

Your supposed to torque those rod bolts down to honda's oem specifications. Too tight WILL cause a bearing to spin for your clearances will not be loose enough for oil to lubricate it, causing it to run dry and spin. It's always good to buy ARP rod bolts, they are cheap insurance. Revving an ls-vtec with the oem pr4 rods past 8000 rpm isnt exactly a good idea, so don't do it.
 
One of my old ls vtec setups took a shit on me after 90 days or so, but it didn't spin a bearing. The piston actually broke right where the machine shop cut the rod's for them to fit (LS rods, ctr pistons). Sent the rod through the front of the block, it wasn't pretty. >;/

EDIT: I was spinning that engine to 9k after the break-in, A LOT.
 
Sticking LMAs? [lost motion assemblies]

Some of my LMAs are sticking, and it's enough to set off my knock sensor.
 
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