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Need major help with engine trouble on 2000 Civic Si

Discussion in 'Civic and del Sol - EG and EK' started by bpounds, Jul 13, 2007.

  1. bpounds

    bpounds New Member

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    I have a 2000 Civic Si (B16A2). I had an Edelbrock turbo added about 7 months ago. It only ran good for about a month. But now, it jerks a lot when my speed idles at a certain speed (for example - going 55 mph in 5th gear for about ten seconds). It only drives good when I am accelerating to a higher speed. This morning my car completely cut off while approaching a stop sign, but it cranked right up. Sometimes, the car will not even accelerate when I am pushing the gas pedal (it's like it bogs down). I have to put it in neutral, then rev it to about 5,000 RPMs and then put it in gear to go. It's really weird.

    Another problem that comes and goes is that my car is sooooo slow when accelerating from a complete stop. It will only go 5 to 10 mph for about 5 or so seconds. If I am going uphill, it almost will not make it. People always swerve around me wondering why a suped up car is driving like a grandma. It may do it one day, and then the next, it drives fine.

    Normally, my car runs great on the way to work, but I have to pray to make it home everyday. That's when I have the most problems.

    Anyway, the guys who put it on checked the timing and the wires for the ECU and piggy back, but they said nothing is wrong with that. They said I should try a new map sensor (but they can't guarantee it will work). They said it could also be my ECU going out.

    Does anyone have any idea what it could be? All answers would be greatly appreciated.

    Oh, also I have been emailing a technician at Edelbrock. I sent him pictures of the ECU and piggy back; he said it was fine. The only thing he could come up with is that I need my O2 sensors replaced to take the car out of "home limp mode."?? (the engine check light is on). Please help!!!

    And some more background info is that I had a burnt valve back in November 06. Since the engine was going to have to be rebuilt anyway, I decided to add the turbo. So, low compression pistons and Skunk 2 valves were added. Also, they put on a new Spec 2 clutch. (hope this info helps).

    They ran a dianostics on it last week and they said the only thing it shows is that the O2 sensors need to be replaced. I think I will take it to O'reilly or Advance Auto Parts and see if they say the same thing. I will get the actual codes and post them tomorrow.

    Btw, here is the list of parts that were put on my car in November when the engine was rebuilt with a turbo:

    -ring set
    -main bearings
    -washer st
    -rod bearing set
    -valve gasket
    -cam seal
    -crank seal
    -rear main seal
    -thermostat
    -drive belt
    -drive belt
    -Spec stage II clutch
    -drive belt
    -Skunk II valves
    -head gasket
    -oil and coolant
    -drive axles
    -Edelbrock turbo kit
    -piston kit turbo (set of 4)
    -turbo timer

    (I can't find page 2 of my receipt...there were a few more things). I will get it and post them as well.

    Here is the info on the turbo taken directly from the Edelbrock website:


    [​IMG]

    PERFORMER X STREET LEGAL TURBO KITS
    HONDA/ACURA STREET LEGAL TURBO KITS
    Street legal and easy to install, these kits include everything you need to give your car turbocharged performance. No additional tuning is required when used on otherwise stock engines. The Garrett turbo comes preassembled as one unit with a Ni-resist cast exhaust manifold and elbow, inlet oil and water lines for the simplest possible installation. The Garrett ball bearing turbo spools up fast, works with pump gas and still makes over 60% more power than stock. The Edelbrock exhaust manifold and elbow are designed for maximum flow at high velocity. [​IMG][​IMG]

    PERFORMER X STREET LEGAL TURBO KITS INCLUDE:
    • Garrett ball bearing Turbo preassembled with exhaust manifold and elbow, including coolant and oil lines.
    • A new intake manifold preassembled with secondary fuel rail and four additional injectors
    • Preassembled Russell fuel and oil lines with adapters
    • Large bar and plate style intercooler with TIG welded cast aluminum end tanks.
    • Edelbrock boost gauge by Auto Meter with A-pillar mount pod
    • Ceramic coated Turbo piping and high flow air filter
    • O-ring sealed compressor inlet/outlet pipe flanges
    • All gaskets, adapters and instructions
    • TiAL blow-off valve


    The above info was taken from: Edelbrock.com | Edelbrock Sport Compact - TURBOS - Performer X.
     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2007
  2. bpounds

    bpounds New Member

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    Here is page two of the receipt of parts:

    -timing belt
    -intake and exhaust gasket seals
    -oil pan gasket
    -tube seals

    _________________________________________________

    I took it back to the shop today to run another diagnostics. Today, it did show different codes than last time. There were three codes:

    1. P0108 (map circuit high input)
    2. P0122 (TP sensor (A) voltage low)
    3. P1121 (TP sensor signal lower than expected)

    He said if I take it back to him next week, he can check the voltage to see if the TP sensor is bad....but, if it comes back with good voltage, he said it would have to be a bad ECU.

    Does that sound correct?
     
  3. spohnmeister

    spohnmeister New Member

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    Does the car idle at proper rpm?
     
  4. bpounds

    bpounds New Member

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    Most of the time...

    It usually idles around 1,000 RPMs, but sometimes when it is running bad, I will shift to neutral...When it is in neutral, I notice the RPM gauge is jumping up and down from 500 to 1,500 RPMs.

    Even when I come to a complete stop, it will keep doing it when it is running bad. But then, I will crank it up the next day and it will not do it at all on the way to work in the morning. It usually happens the 2nd time I drive it (on the way home). It's about a 30 minute drive to and from work.
     
  5. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    get rid of the piggy back crap

    by doing this
    get an obd2b to obd1 conversion harness
    a p28 or = ecu.
    tell them the set up and they will burn you a chip [depending on state you can tune O2 sensors out via ecu chip to get you to dyno].... see sponsors for a great deal

    3bar map ensor, o2 sensors if you need them

    install everything and get it started with what you got

    then

    go to dyno... youll be ok untill it gets cold. in winter you get it tuned again [use another chip so you dont hve to keep going every year]
     
  6. spohnmeister

    spohnmeister New Member

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    Have you checked the IACV and the egr valve
     
  7. bpounds

    bpounds New Member

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    I haven't. not sure if the guys at the shop checked it.

    Here are some updates since the last post:

    there were some loose wires on the TPS; they soddered them back. Now, it is my map sensor that needs to be replaced.

    I'm thinking about going with the motorola 2.5 bar. I'm just not sure if it will work on obd2. I still have a stock ECU (the turbo came with a piggy back system).

    Does anyone know about this?
     
  8. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    the sensor will work...
     
  9. 01prelude

    01prelude New Member

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    ck fuel pressure it could be fine at idle but under a load the fuel pump could be shutting down
     
  10. lightning89

    lightning89 New Member

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    If you have'nt fixed the problem, try a new O2 sensor. My sons GSR swap into a Civic did the same thing, turned out to be the O2 sensor
     
  11. hctim00

    hctim00 New Member

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    do the 02 sensor. check all ur vacuum hoses and ic piping for leaks. try doing a boost leak test. do a compression test. as for map sensor they make like a .4bar map so ur cel wont come on everytime u boost. and make ur car run like ass
     
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