need new brakes!

We may earn a small commission from affiliate links and paid advertisements. Terms

M

micah

Senior Member
just under 40k miles ago, about 2.5 years ago, i got new pads and had my rotors turned. well the batstards have started squealing again, just the passenger rear for now, the rotor is scratched pretty deep, figured id change them all while i was at it.

well i have 17's on the car atm, but plan on going to 16's if not 15's asap(within a year), so ill need some that will be able to fit under lets say some 15" rotas.

i dont want to get a friggin huge like 13" rotor because i dont feel like sacrificing any wheel hp for a lil added braking power and/or better looks.

with that in mind, does anyone have any suggestions on brakes? should i go with an aftermarket assembly or just stick to the oem ish?

in case it matters i have a 94 sol VTEC

also keep in mind im broke as fuck, so the cheaper the better.
 
I'm in the same boat and if you do a search, you can find some info.

Folks on here told me that I should get:

Brembo OEM Blanks with Hawk HPS pads.

The blank rotors will cost about $60/pair and the hawk pads run about $50 !!!

From what i've heard, this setup will let you stop on a dime.
 
brembo blanks (other people have had good luck with the cheap autozone ones)
hawk HPS (for agressive street) or hawk HP+ (for street with regular track use)

:thumbsup:
 
ive never done a new brake install before, is it easier then say putting a header on?

ill do it myself just to save money, just wanna know what im in for ;)
 
the manual that came for my car was for a del sol s

and i havent kept up with tech info in a long time, but arent the brakes different depending on trim level of sol?

so no, i dont have one for my specific trim, but i do have one for a sol :p
 
yeah brake installs like just pads/rotors is really easy.

i you only need to undo 2 bolts (12mm i think) to get the main caliper assembly off

pull the pads out.

2 bolts for the secondary caliper (14mm i think)

then 2 phillips screws for the rotors.

sidenote: for the rear brakes, it must be done with the E-brake off.




as far as brakes go. Brembo Blanks (<$100 for all 4) and Hawk HPS ($40-50 a pair.)
 
the rear brake pistons need to be twisted in
the fronts just get pressed in
 
Yep, to compress the fronts, put the old pad inside the caliper, then with a c-clamp, compress the piston. For VTEC/Integra brakes, it is actually easier then the lower model sols.

Basicly take the wheels off.

Unbolt the calipers from the guide pins (12mm bolts)

Pull the caliper off, compress the piston and set up somewere so you dont put tention on the brake line

Take off the caliper bracket off.

Pull the rotor off (if there are screws holding the rotors off and you cant take them off, just get a drill and drill them out. They are not needed. They are on there so during manufactoring, the rotors stay on when the wheels are not there.

Spray the rotors with brake clean before installing (they come shipped with oil so they dont rust, and oil will eat pads)

Put the rotors back on

Put the caliper braket back on

Take the guide pins out, clean off all the crap on them, and then put guide pin lube all over them. Put them back in.

Put one of the 12mm bolts back in so you can pivot the caliper

Put the pads on (just stick them in the caliper brakets, touching the rotors) If your going to put the antisqueal on, do it now to the back of the pads.

Swing the caliper down, line of the guide pins (they have flat spots on the head to line up the caliper right) and stick the other 12mm bolt in.

Tighten everything to spec.

Spray rotors again with brake clean.
 
anyone got a link for a site to order said parts from?

i could find them easy enough, but im lazy and hoped that someone would already have a site in mind with the lowest everyday prices :)

or maybe even a sale :ph34r:

guess i should try groupbuycenter
 
hmm..... so is it bad that when i took my calipers off to paint them that i didnt touch any of the pistons????
 
Originally posted by asmallsol@Apr 25 2004, 08:04 PM
Yep, to compress the fronts, put the old pad inside the caliper, then with a c-clamp, compress the piston. For VTEC/Integra brakes, it is actually easier then the lower model sols.

Basicly take the wheels off.

Unbolt the calipers from the guide pins (12mm bolts)

Pull the caliper off, compress the piston and set up somewere so you dont put tention on the brake line

Take off the caliper bracket off.

Pull the rotor off (if there are screws holding the rotors off and you cant take them off, just get a drill and drill them out. They are not needed. They are on there so during manufactoring, the rotors stay on when the wheels are not there.

Spray the rotors with brake clean before installing (they come shipped with oil so they dont rust, and oil will eat pads)

Put the rotors back on

Put the caliper braket back on

Take the guide pins out, clean off all the crap on them, and then put guide pin lube all over them. Put them back in.

Put one of the 12mm bolts back in so you can pivot the caliper

Put the pads on (just stick them in the caliper brakets, touching the rotors) If your going to put the antisqueal on, do it now to the back of the pads.

Swing the caliper down, line of the guide pins (they have flat spots on the head to line up the caliper right) and stick the other 12mm bolt in.

Tighten everything to spec.

Spray rotors again with brake clean.
Click to expand...

Remember to bleed the brake system- that's one of the most important steps after you screw around with your pads/rotors.
 
Originally posted by micah@Apr 25 2004, 09:05 PM
anyone got a link for a site to order said parts from?

i could find them easy enough, but im lazy and hoped that someone would already have a site in mind with the lowest everyday prices :)

or maybe even a sale :ph34r:

guess i should try groupbuycenter
Click to expand...

http://www.tirerack.com
 
Originally posted by Calesta@Apr 26 2004, 03:17 AM
Remember to bleed the brake system- that's one of the most important steps after you screw around with your pads/rotors.
Click to expand...

You dont need to bleed if you never open the system. Only if take off the banjo bolt or open the bleeder screws.



jwn7 - According to the Helms because of the proportioning valves, they say, P(passenger) D(driver) PR, DF, DR, PF.
 
Originally posted by asmallsol+Apr 26 2004, 09:34 AM-->
asmallsol @ Apr 26 2004 said:
Calesta
Click to expand...
asmallsol @ Apr 26 2004 said:
@Apr 26 2004, 03:17 AM
Remember to bleed the brake system- that's one of the most important steps after you screw around with your pads/rotors.
Click to expand...

You dont need to bleed if you never open the system. Only if take off the banjo bolt or open the bleeder screws.



jwn7 - According to the Helms because of the proportioning valves, they say, P(passenger) D(driver) PR, DF, DR, PF.
Click to expand...

Yes and no. I still bleed/flush the system every time I change my pads. It's just a good idea. When you're compressing the pistons back into the calipers, you can disrupt the brake fluid and make a mess. It's just a good idea to always bleed your brakes at a service, especially when you're running high performance fluid like ATE or Motul. High performance DOT4 fluids tend to pick up water a bit faster than your every day DOT3.

Bleeding order- you can always use the method of bleeding from farthest to closest in reference to the master cylinder, or you can use the diagonal system that Honda specifies too. Both work equally well. The diagonal pair system makes you bleed the lines a set at a time. The brake lines are split up in diagonal pairs once they exit the master cylinder- passenger front is connected to driver rear, and driver front is connected to passenger rear.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top