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Need some more power out of my D15

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by raceitall, Mar 10, 2008.

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  1. raceitall

    raceitall New Member

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    Okay I guess I need to start by saying I am totally new to the whole Honda scene, I have many friends who have modified theres but I am new to working on them and modding them for myself. I just picked up my brothers wrecked 89 hatch and he is pulling his ZC swap out to sell to a friend who has a D15 motor. What I am doing is I am going to use the motor and tranny we take out of the D15 hatch and put it in my brothers wrecked hatch to go and race at the local short track this year. Now I know there are many things you can do to a honda motor by switching out parts from one to the other so I need to know what I can swap over from any of the other D motors to my D15 to make some real extra HP. I guess i need to know can I do the mini swap onto a d15? or is there a better route?? I need to make this as fast as possible but not go to over board with it so I dont get teched with a motor tear down.

    I guess really all I need to know is what is the best way to make my D15 go alittle bit faster.

    Thanks Guys for any advice you can give me
     
  2. eg6sir

    eg6sir Supa Mod Moderator VIP

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    head swap.. turbo...
     
  3. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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  4. philyphreak2127

    philyphreak2127 Back in the Game

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    I will be more specific for ya bro...d16z6 head d16z6 comes from a 94-96 civic ex or the sohc vtec civic del sols. I think 94-97. also d16y8 cam gear, intake manifold which comes in the 96+ civic ex. obd1 conversion harness, p28 ecu with greddy chip. (again years are estimates) hmmm plus you could go cold air intake, dc header, and full exhaust. That will up your power a lot over just the stock motor. Also the cost will probably be overall pretty cheap if you pull the parts and do the work yourself as far as the parts off of the cars and motors I listed.
     
  5. roninallout79

    roninallout79 Plan B

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    FInd out for sure what motor you are installing in the Rex for sure. Then from there go with a full exhaust header to tail pipe. Look into getting a tranny out of an SI. The P28 ol boy talked about sounds good along with the greddy chip. Cold air. MSD cap and coil. Bigger plug wires (less resitance) NGK hot plugs. Advance yout timing just a little. Run some 14 inch steelies. take out all the interior (minus the essentials). Skunk 2 manifold. Tubo most definetely. Thats all I can think of right now. Good luck

    TRU
     
  6. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    D16Z6= 92-95 Si/EX. What would he need the cam gear for?

    Don't need a Y8 plenum; any gains would be negligible and a waste of money if you already have a B7 or Z6 one. Just port-match whatever IM you already have.

    Skip the "Greddy" chip and just get a specific tune or basemap/stock ECU. No need for a P28 when a converted P06 will cost less and work the same(if you can solder the kit costs like $35-$40)..

    DC headers are overpriced for their gains(at least on a D-series). A used one will suffice and some ebay ones work just as well. If you're going the N/A route, save up for a Bisimoto header or modifiy a Y8 one. If you're going turbo, a exhaust manifold off a D15B1/B6/B8 with adapter flange will work well.

    If you just want more power for the moment but aren't going into the motor too much; just ge a 88-91 D16A6 Si cam, port-match your stock intake manifold, simple 4-2-1 header with 2.25" exhaust/high flow cat, CAI with decent filter, EX/Si transmission, and a tune using the stock P06 ECU..

    Also, no need to upgrade the wires. Stick with NGK, they work well.
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2008
  7. SLOWdelawareEG

    SLOWdelawareEG my cars go fast

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    all these guys are right, you can def get "more power" from a d series, but if you dont want it to be SUPER slow you have to boost it. theres no such thing as a fast n/a single stick. i mean no matter what i/h/e combo, even w/ a mini me setup, it will cost 1000s just to make it competitive with stock b series. waste of money in my opinion
     
  8. raceitall

    raceitall New Member

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    I will see what I can come up with, looking at the rules this year they are not allowing any bolt ons so it all has to be stock OEM parts. It sucks but I guess the CRX dominated out there and they banned it for 08 so I am stuck with all OEM parts but I will look at what I can find in the For sale boards from some of the honda sites.

    Should be pretty cheap for me to do P28 in fact there is a guy that has 3 of them for like $40 each here in the area so I may pick one up from him.
     
  9. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    There are fast N/A D's out there, some even faster than B16s. Hell, I beat a B20 EF hatch with my D15B VTEC hatch(OK so I had more parts in mine, but my setup still cost less than his and I have .5l less displacement) ;)

    You can indefinitely build a fast D with stock parts! Are you allowed to use stock parts from other cars though? And modified stock parts?

    If so; reground cam(Bisimoto can set you up with a good one), P29 pistons, milled head, port and polish, port-match IM and ZXi final drive(4.437). There's also a setup using a stock GX shortblock with a Y8 or Z6 head.
     
  10. raceitall

    raceitall New Member

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    stock is all i can run, but they dont tear into a motor unless there is a claim against me so the best thing is to just run a mini swap and a chipped p28 computer along with some other oem bolt ons.
     
  11. philyphreak2127

    philyphreak2127 Back in the Game

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    okay in that case go with the y8 intake manifold, z6 head, ecu with the tune or chip, and some other stuff.
     
  12. SLOWdelawareEG

    SLOWdelawareEG my cars go fast

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    what kind of whp are you claiming here? just curious, cuz unless ur motor is fully built high compression, tuned and all in a gutted hatch or some shit versus a FULLY STOCK b series(like air box and stock muffler) w/ a full interior, your living in a dream world. even then, you make so little torque, its pointless. and how does a modded headswapped d cost less than a $600 B20. and btw, b20s make145hp and 133tq STOCK. just making that power with a d requires mods, and you'll never get that much tq without boosting it. it pointless
     
  13. SLOWdelawareEG

    SLOWdelawareEG my cars go fast

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    dude, you're apparently MORE ignorant, and your motor is fucking slow! for 1500, buy a b18a/b or b20. throw on i/h/e and tune with crome pro. make WAY more power and tq, and spend the couple hundo you saved on whatever you choose, as long as its not d series related!! my ls was shitting on ALL d's b4 i boosted it, and ive still spent less than 1500!! get a fucking grip on reality.
     
  14. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    lmao.

    My motor is a JDM D15B VTEC, as in came that way. Bought the motor, ebay header, ebay CAI(modified to work in EF), P28 ECU, and and transmission(DOHC ZC, swapped over to a 4.25 FD) for a grand total of ~$300. Yup. Motor and other parts were $200(at first I thought it was probably stolen, but he was just making room due to moving up to a LS engine). Engine just needed a new valve cover stud, and the transmission was $70 plus $35 total for the FD(CRX Si countershaft and 92-95 EX differential)..

    Throw in used cam Zex (59300) retarded 2 degrees, Omnipower valves, milled head, 2-layer'd HG, MSD ignition components, port-matched IM, 7lb flywheel, 2.25" header-back exhaust off my old CRX(extended to fit) and remapped by just tuning for 13:1 AFR(Crome and LC-1). I've never dynoed it since the ECU took a shit before I could get to that point, but I'd guess around ~125whp. My car is a 88 hatchback, and his was a 91. Both of our cars still had interior(although mine was crappier). I probably weigh 15-20lbs more than him. His car had exhaust and intake. Also, he spent roughly $1100 iirc for his motor and transmission. It's actually more than that though because his transmission took a shit and he just got another LS transmission for like $400.

    You can look at paper figures all you want but fact is that B20 isn't putting down 145whp hp, they're like around ~120-130whp. Combined with the stock "LS" transmission, they're not as quick as you'd think. Also, gearing makes up for torque ;)
     
  15. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    Also, if you ever seen some of the D-series builds, there are some guys hitting 150-170whp using off-the-shelf parts. For comparison, my cousin's LS/VTEC(GSR head), which was completely rebuilt by RLZ with 12:1 CR Wiseco pistons, JGE header, 2.5" exhaust, AEM CAI, and AEBS intake manifold put down 175whp.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2008
  16. SLOWdelawareEG

    SLOWdelawareEG my cars go fast

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    ^^your cuz's car was apparently VERY poorly tuned. the tuner should hang himself! reguardless, this is a poinltless thread, and theres seemingly no arguing with you "d series are fast" dudes. for whatever reason, youd rather start w/ 100bhp and brag when u get 130 or more. once again, the ls was making that back when it was n/a with a few hundo in it. these setups youre describing are piss slow and a big waste of money. if you put the same $ into a d/h/hell even f series itd be faster. stop arguing wit yourselves. are you too slow to catch on? go spend some time at d series . org where someone can be tricked into giving a shit.
     
  17. SLOWdelawareEG

    SLOWdelawareEG my cars go fast

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    fuck you. fuck d series. and fuck honda tech. and the b20 thing was an example. i rock stictly tegs. your single stick has to be built just to fuck with a stock b18. its lame. thats all im sayin
     
  18. K2e2vin

    K2e2vin Senior Member

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    Depends on what car it's in :D
     
  19. SLOWdelawareEG

    SLOWdelawareEG my cars go fast

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    i guess.....
     
  20. SLOWdelawareEG

    SLOWdelawareEG my cars go fast

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