Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by pissedoffsol, Jan 8, 2003.
he says beat the piss out of it... WTF?
holy fuck that was informative
now i just need a new engine to try it on
i think the varying speed thing is more for the clutch/flywheel (?????)
i'd hate to preach on about beating a motor but listen to this..... my friend got a base model neon brand new in 2000, from the moment we left the lot we just beat the crap outta that stupid car and beat it and beat it... well either way he got a 15.81 at the track, and i know that's not real fast it's a sohc neon.
damn dude, my girl has a 2000 neon, and it is slow as shit!!! she took it to the track once (for shits and giggles) and it ran like a 17.6
I guess I will volunteer to be test bitch for this one. I am slowly accumulating parts for an engine rebuild. When I get it assembled again I will try this method of breakin and tell you guys what I see.
On my race motors, we do get them up to speed in about thirty minutes. The first time we start it, it is fast idled (~2500 RPM) until it gets up to temperature and the water temp reaches 190 degrees. We shut it off and let it cool completely and the retorque the head, the intake, the exhaust, lash the valves and do a general inspection.
Then they get two 15 minute session to get broken in and seated...first session no revs above 5500 and all throttle at 1/2 to make good pressure against the rings. We repeat the service routine completed after the first run of the motor and change the oil. Second session increase the revs by 250 RPM per lap to 8000. After that, let her rip...I get twice the ring life as I do bearing life breaking them in that way. I don't use synthetic oil in my race motors, but it is for a reason unrelated to the rings. The longest I go between rebuild is about 12 hours, that's for a motor that we limit the revs to 8200...I have one motor that I run to 9200 to 9400 - it runs one warmup session, one qualifying session and one race before rebuild - one hour of run time...
Street, I drive no more than 4000 RPM with no more than 1/2 throttle for the first 800 miles using non-synth oil. I changed the oil (again non-synth) and start increasing the revs 500 RPM per 100 miles so that aroung 1400 miles I am running 7000 RPM. I only do light load pulls on the motor when first starting to get to this range - i.e., lower gears and lower throttle, just letting the motor spin up freely and trying to notice any vibrations or noises that are abnormal. After this, I use my judgement as to how hard to rev the motor - it is still tight.
At 3000 miles I take a leakdown on the cylinders when it is hot - if it is not below 3% - I do another 2000 miles on non-syth oil just to make me comfortable that I have got a good seat. Don't know that it makes a difference, but it has always worked for me. I have motors with over 250 K Miles on them and still make excellent compression and less than 5% leakdown.
On a Honda 4 cylinder for a car or a motorcycle engine?
Maybe this is why I was always losing oil... I was really easy on the engine when I first got it. Hmm... I'm getting new rings pretty soon, so I want to verify this information before risking it on a new set of rings.
I figure that I was burning a ton of oil already and I followed the old method to the letter. I think that it is worth a try.
Yup. I agree. I just talked to a few of my other car buddies, and they agree with this method- they've done a LOT of research about it already... I'll talk to Intercrew tomorrow and see what Phillip says.
Keep us updated on that if you can. It would be interesting to hear a few more opinions. I work with a guy that used to build engines for dirt oval. He used the same breakin method as gtpilot does for race engines.
Yes, I run the EW series 1300 and 1500 motors with Total Seal Rings on JE or Weisco pistons.
Has anyone tried this method yet?
what material are honda cylinder walls made from? he says the break in process is for steel and composites.
this method is for track use on enginges that will last 12 hours at most and his page is for bikes it you read it more carfully every manual and rebuild book for eveyr engine 50% of throttle for 20 cool down and up from there and baby ir no full throttle and pounding for the first 300 miles
Not all tips apply , but there is still some useful engine info here
even a small break-in tip
sorry to tell all yal this but i work at a dodge dealer for 2years, ford dealer for about 1 1/2 year and we do all the pdi (predelivery vechile inspection) guest what we don t check shit cause if something does break its under warranty
anyways we get the cars and trucks with1-5 miles on it and we drive the shit out of them
my friends at toyota and honda say the same
why u think the fast cars only get test driven by shop formens(they know we don t check them all we do drive the shit out of them)
i got to drive a new dodge viper befor (in circles in the parking lot with the service manager watching out the window)lol
the fastest car i drove off the lot is a lighten and v12 mercedes (i only got to drive them because they failed smog and i toke it out to warm it up)
belive me they were really warm after wards
I know this thread is old but i need to know if the "Hard Breakin Method" works.
When my LSVTEC article makes it up the break in method that I used is in there. It worked well.
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