One Stop- you're welcome, feel free to ask any time.
Sleeper- wake up already. You've made tons of posts on this site about how you HAVE to resleeve a B20 for just about anything but stock use, and that's just total bullshit. It's not made out of glass. The B20 can handle quite a bit of abuse naturally aspirated and under boost. People break them because they're being stupid and cheap, not because the sleeve is weak.
B- thanks for correcting him.
---
The B20/B16 combo works very well. It's actually a very potent powerplant that can surprise even swapped turbo guys running in a straight speed contest. A solid build combined with short gearing and good tuning is very nice to drive. I was trapping high enough at the quarter mile to put me solidly in the mid 13s with my last engine, and that was with a heavy car and no head work. My new engine build is even stronger, and I'm shooting for 250whp naturally aspirated (pump gas) when everything is finally done. I think I can get close. You're right though- for something like this, I wouldn't dream of putting it together myself. There's a lot of money in it, and I don't need to be trying to do it all inside my own garage and end up botching a $10k engine. It's high tolerance enough for me that I'd rather pay the pros to do it... especially when they can do it cheaper than I can.
The easiest way for you to get close to 350whp would be to get a B18 or B20, drop in some forged pistons and rods, then boost the piss out of it. It's easier to tune than a GSR. VTEC presents problems under boost when tuning the crossover, but it's nothing that an experienced tuner can't handle. VTEC + boost just costs more money, but it does ultimately make more power. All that said, I watched an LS block make 380whp, and it still had fueling problems. There was no VTEC, and this was with a street driven pump gas car.
Sleeper- wake up already. You've made tons of posts on this site about how you HAVE to resleeve a B20 for just about anything but stock use, and that's just total bullshit. It's not made out of glass. The B20 can handle quite a bit of abuse naturally aspirated and under boost. People break them because they're being stupid and cheap, not because the sleeve is weak.
B- thanks for correcting him.
---
The B20/B16 combo works very well. It's actually a very potent powerplant that can surprise even swapped turbo guys running in a straight speed contest. A solid build combined with short gearing and good tuning is very nice to drive. I was trapping high enough at the quarter mile to put me solidly in the mid 13s with my last engine, and that was with a heavy car and no head work. My new engine build is even stronger, and I'm shooting for 250whp naturally aspirated (pump gas) when everything is finally done. I think I can get close. You're right though- for something like this, I wouldn't dream of putting it together myself. There's a lot of money in it, and I don't need to be trying to do it all inside my own garage and end up botching a $10k engine. It's high tolerance enough for me that I'd rather pay the pros to do it... especially when they can do it cheaper than I can.
The easiest way for you to get close to 350whp would be to get a B18 or B20, drop in some forged pistons and rods, then boost the piss out of it. It's easier to tune than a GSR. VTEC presents problems under boost when tuning the crossover, but it's nothing that an experienced tuner can't handle. VTEC + boost just costs more money, but it does ultimately make more power. All that said, I watched an LS block make 380whp, and it still had fueling problems. There was no VTEC, and this was with a street driven pump gas car.