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NPR (Nippon Piston Ring) how is it

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by Egturbohatch, Oct 8, 2009.

  1. Egturbohatch

    Egturbohatch New Member

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    sup i just bought some NPR rings for my b18b turbo so u know i'll be pushing it. the question is, are the rings going to handle da power or it's a cheap brand and it's not worth wasting ur time to pull the motor and all. my car is blowing blue smoke and im pretty sure its cuz the rings, my car is going to sleep for da winter and will come bakk out in the spring.....and planning on coming bakk mildy hard...lol.
    So guys let me kno wat u think about the rings........oyea i forgot im on a budget so that should tell u guys around wat HP i should be pushing ( not much)
     
  2. RoughKnight

    RoughKnight Christmas Car

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    sup I think the blue smoke is due to burning oil, due to the rings not sealing everything off and getting some oil into the combustion cycle. So either ur rings are too short(width wise), installed improperly, or they just plain suck. Somebody can correct me on this as i'm not 100% about it.
     
  3. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    Stock pistons? If so, OEM piston rings and a fresh hone to seat them in provided cylinder walls aren't too bad.

    If scarring is too bad, you may have to bore and get oversized pistons.
     
  4. Egturbohatch

    Egturbohatch New Member

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    i havent installed the rings yet, my ride is smoking now though. just want some oppinion on these rings, i just dont want to waste my time rebuilding it and then the ring wont hold. please any sugggestion would be koo
     
  5. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    It could also be your valve guides leaking as well. Do a compression and leakdown test and share the results.
     
  6. Magana559

    Magana559 The Warden

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    true, also replace the valve steam seals. its a must when you take off the head anyway.
     
  7. Egturbohatch

    Egturbohatch New Member

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    i will do da comp/ leakdown test 2morrow at a speed shop and he's charging 100 bukks, what u guys think of the price. Is it worth it or do it myself, the problem is that i dont have a compressor.
    Valve guide and the valve stem seal, is it a hard job after u take the head off?
     
  8. Egturbohatch

    Egturbohatch New Member

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    whats the price range for doing the valve guide and stem seal?
     
  9. Egturbohatch

    Egturbohatch New Member

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    btw anybody ever experiance the NPR rings....please let me kno, i just dont want to do the job twice
     
  10. Magana559

    Magana559 The Warden

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    valve guids have to be welded in, and the seals are easy as hell to replace if you have a spring compressor.

    my buddy is using nippon pistons and rings on his b20 vtec. hasent had em on long enough to tell you if they are good or not.
     
  11. Egturbohatch

    Egturbohatch New Member

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    how long he have it for? he beat on it rite....no smoke?

    so better off letting the machine shop do it rite cuz im planning on bringing the head and the block to get the work done, but im still collecting some parts so wen i have all the parts i needed then i'll head down to RJT Machine Shop in Lawrence,MA recommeded by a few peeps.

    BTW like i said im on a budget but still want a reliable Ls turbo so would anybody have a reliable Ls turbo build , not Ls Vtec....(hate Vtec, cuz i cant afford it....lol) that can shed some advise of wat i can do. plus i dont want to rebuild somethin that dont need to be rebuild so let me kno please..........thanks!
     
  12. caboose

    caboose USDM to the bone

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    i'm pretty sure the valve guides are pressed in. IMO, the valve guides are not causing the problem. You can replace the valve seals without taking the head off, so could try doing that before you rebuild the bottom end.

    my guess is that it's probably the rings, and you are going to have to rehone and replace them.

    usually if the car is burning oil under acceleration, then it's rings. if it burns oil when engine braking, then it's valves.
     
  13. caboose

    caboose USDM to the bone

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    fyi, when i did rings in my f22, i used ITM and they were like $50. they have 25K on them now, and the thing feels brand new. Doesn't burn any oil.
     
  14. eg'sforlife

    eg'sforlife New Member

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    x2 on the pressing ...... the guide are pressed in the block is heated in an oven and the guides are in the freezer then there are pressed in
     
  15. Egturbohatch

    Egturbohatch New Member

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    thanks for all ur info. Im still getting a comp/ leak down test done first before i take my motor out so wen i get the result i'll update this post and let u guys kno wats up. Suppose to go today but damn i gotta watch the kidS................u guys kno wats the estimate on how much it cost to do those test at a shop, i wanna pin point whats causing the blue smoke first. Can any garage do this test or have to be a speed shop or something. My speed shop told me it's going to cost me $100 for him to find out exactly whats causing the blue smoke.....is that a good deal or im getting ripped off, let me kno..................it suks not driving my car, im blowing blue smoke all over the streets.......lol
     
  16. eg'sforlife

    eg'sforlife New Member

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    The price all depends on how much labor is and diag time is at any particular shop......
    the blue smoke is being caused by burning oil, most likely piston rings.
    Basically when they leak down test they will be applying air to a given cylinder at tdc on the compression stroke. There gauge will then tell the percentage of the leak. Then while air is still in the cylinder they will checkfor the sound of air escaping from 5 different place; The exhaust, the intake, the crankcase, the radiator and the spark plugs holes of the adjacent cylinder to determine the source of the leak
     
  17. Egturbohatch

    Egturbohatch New Member

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    some good info here bro....good lookin out!
     
  18. 78civic

    78civic Junior Member

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    I wouldn't worry so much about the rings as the ring lands that they ride in. In a boosted combustion process, the pressure actually pushes the ring lands down sizing/breaking the rings or cocking them, therefore whatever broke, is rubbing against the cyl wall and not sealing, just scuffing up and down.
    Now this doesn't happen in EVERY boosted engine(failure) but that's why forged pistons are the better choice.

    Talk it over with your shop doing the work. You don't need Chrome Moly rings either. A good cast ring with a good hone to match will seat quickly, usually within a 1000 miles. Whereas the 'coated' rings will take longer but last longer (mileage wise)too.
    There are low/high tension rings, gas ports,"file to fit" to confuse you further.

    Just make sure you use a FINE hone at the edges of the ring gaps and you know which way is "UP" before you install them. Hone to the inside. NOT outward.

    E
     
  19. Egturbohatch

    Egturbohatch New Member

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    this is also good info but im lost and confuse.........thats why the shop's goin to put my shit in wen it's ready to go in..........again thanks for the info
     
  20. 78civic

    78civic Junior Member

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    Get/ask for a 'W R I T T E N', Itemized list of what was done/cleaned, what was installed "NEW", torque values, was it honed for cast or molly?

    OH, But when you bring your parts in, write what you brought on the work order "with casting marks/#'s" so you don't get someone elses parts (You know.. "Hey man, I got this kid that dropped off some _______! We can swap it for ______ and he'll never know.."

    A GOOD shop shouldn't blink an eye at this type of questioning..
    It keeps everyone on the 'up and up'.
    Even ask them for a warrantee. BUT the second you say "turbo" that might go out the window..

    Hope it works out for you.. E
     
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