OBD 0 To OBD 1/ Hondata Problems?

[geoffrey]

OK, I switched from OBD 0 to OBD 1 with Hondata S200 and have a strange problem:

Car does not start but tries to turn over, has spark and fuel to injectors but they are not opening. I have RC 320cc OBD 0 injectors with the original injector resistor box. Used Boomslang jumper harness and all wiring checked correct. Check engine light when pushing the red button on Hondata gives an unstopping steady blink but no code. Wiring to resistor box untampered with but is the original 1991 box that came with car.

Any ideas & do injector resistor boxes go bad? This thing wants to start but will not.

Also noticed that the OBD 0 to OBD 1 peach to white and white to peach dizzy plug wire switch does not seem to affect this so left how it is recommended.....

B18c/ITR into 1991 Civic EX with P28 & Hondata s200

 

[geoffrey]

Update: the fuel injector resistor box was fine as the resistance to each injector measured 6.6 to three and 6.5 ohms to the fourth (spec is 5-7 ohms).

Still can not figure out WTF and so am going to trace my wires back.

Damn, NO CODES with this!

 

[D See 2]

Weird, do a continuity test on all 4 injectors to the ecu.

 

[geoffrey]

That should be tomorrow that I get back to it. What do you mean by continuity test?

I assume you mean test them straight back to ECU (duh).

 

[posol]

with hondata, you need to pull codes with the data logger. it disables the CEL check method for some reason.

hows your basemap? do you have a chip burner? i can load you a hondata basemap bin that you can DL and burn...

 

[geoffrey]

Ouch, got the unit about 18 months ago and let things slide so don't remember a dammy on that in terms of base map. Got it from InlinePro in Springfield VA but have no literature with it and they have not been exactly helpful on this. Gonna see about laptop for datalog as don't have that at the moment.

When I push the red button I get the steady blink but you are saying that means nothing. I may need to go as though from scratch on this, what would be your receommendation?

Frustrating since the mechanicals are so good. Thanks for your help!

 

[posol]

yeah... its SUPPOSED to work, but the only way i was able to pull a code when i had hondata was with the datalogger.

did i mention hondata sucks? yeah, well it does. lol

tunewithcrome.com

sell your hondata.

 

[geoffrey]

Wow, I was tracing wires today on the conversion harness and IT is suspect!

First I traced the injector wiring and all was OK, then the igniter wire. Where it went crazy according to the pinouts that I have was with the CYP & CPK wires which seem to NOT go to the correct ECU pinout on the P28 OBD 1 ECU.

It was bought from one of the prominent advertisers on this page.

Also, can somebody verify if OBD 0 to OBD 1 the peach (orange) goes to peach and white to white? Three separate sources say you switch them but that does not jibe with the wiring color code listed elsewhere.

I have taken a break from this for a while as it drives me crazy when the sources don't agree.

 

[posol]

are you talking about pins c1 and c2?

 

[geoffrey]

Yes.

 

[geoffrey]

You know, I have a feeling it is the Hondata, and have seen other such problems posted on the internet, so have a P28 for US manual coming and will try that.

The reason I say that is that I put in the new conversion harness and cookbooked it. My 4 wire O2 is correct as are the dizzy wires and since I am running obd0 injectors have checked the resistor box and all wiring to and from the injectors to the box and the ECU and all are correct; also had these verified as well as my connections and soldering by three other Honda guys.

Will report on results with the new P28 without Hondata (if anybody cares!)...

 

[geoffrey]

Quoted post[/post]]
You know, I have a feeling it is the Hondata, and have seen other such problems posted on the internet, so have a P28 for US manual coming and will try that.

The reason I say that is that I put in the new conversion harness and cookbooked it. My 4 wire O2 is correct as are the dizzy wires and since I am running obd0 injectors have checked the resistor box and all wiring to and from the injectors to the box and the ECU and all are correct; also had these verified as well as my connections and soldering by three other Honda guys.

Will report on results with the new P28 without Hondata (if anybody cares!)...


Well, I tried the P28 and exactly the same thing: car has spark, tries to turn over but no fuel delivered even though there is 46 psi to the fuel rail.

The only thing I can think of is that I might need to get the obd1 injectors and make that conversion. My setup now like I said is with obd0 injectors with a perfectly functioning resistor box which is supposed to work if you read these columns.

ANY IDEAS?

 

[geoffrey]

[quote name='RubyII' date='Jan 22 2006, 10:55 AM' post='644322']
[quote name='RubyII' post='637055' date='Jan 7 2006, 11:01 AM']
You know, I have a feeling it is the Hondata, and have seen other such problems posted on the internet, so have a P28 for US manual coming and will try that.

The reason I say that is that I put in the new conversion harness and cookbooked it. My 4 wire O2 is correct as are the dizzy wires and since I am running obd0 injectors have checked the resistor box and all wiring to and from the injectors to the box and the ECU and all are correct; also had these verified as well as my connections and soldering by three other Honda guys.

Will report on results with the new P28 without Hondata (if anybody cares!)...



OK, problem almost solved and have the car running with only the rare code 13 and code 2 and am using the Hondata chipped p28. Will just have to run the atmospheric sensor wiring and sensor which I have never heard of going bad. I went over to 4 wire O2 so don't know why the code 2 since it was just straight wiring cnversion...

I think the two black wires on the 02 sensor might do OK if I reverse them and will do that Monday and report back. Even with the codes and NO VTEC it pulls like a beast and revs like crazy