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OBD2 B18B1 into 92 Civic CX

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by Dasfinc, Mar 2, 2008.

  1. Dasfinc

    Dasfinc New Member

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    Would an Admin please move this to the FAQ swap article section? There are a few articles featuring GSR's into 92-95 EG/EH/EJ's, but nothing on the trusty old LS

    Hello to everyone on HondaSwap!

    I wrote a write-up a while ago on how to stuff a 96-00 D16Y8 head onto a D15B8/B7 block, and am never satisfied with 'enough' so I went ahead and did a budget motor swap.

    Before I begin MY swap was done using a OBD2 1996 Acura integra motor, a 1995 Acura Integra Transmission, going into a 1992 Honda Civic CX, if you use my document for guidance and are using another combination of parts/cars I cannot guarantee my documents accuracy but will gladly offer guidance.

    Tools needed:
    Metric wrenches and sockets
    32mm Axle Nut
    24" Breaker Bar to use with axle nut
    a GOOD torque wrench.
    Shopping List:


    FULL B18B1 OBD1 or OBD2 long block with wiring harness, it doesn't matter as the wiring harness of either will plug right into the shock-towers of a 92 civic (and in most cases anything from 92-95) You will want ALL the mounts attached to it, as well as the stablizer bracket/mount on the bottom/front.

    [​IMG]

    B series Transmission (Whatever works really, I picked up a LS tranny due to price/availablity, don't forget all the sensors, the fork/bearing, and starter...
    ALSO all mounts and brackets attached to it

    [​IMG]

    1994-2000 Acura Integra LS Axles and midshaft (Automatic OR manual, don't matter)

    1994-2000 Acura Integra Shift linkage and stablizer bar.

    PR4 or P75 OBD 1 Manual ECU. (The last few digits you will notice on the ECU will say "A02" or "A51" 50 and above are ECU's for an AUTOMATIC, below 50 are MANUAL

    TO DISPEL ANY RUMORS OR QUESTIONS:
    ALL MOTOR MOUNTS AND BRACKETS FOR THIS SWAP ARE FROM THE 1994-2000 ACURA INTEGRA LS MOTOR, the ONLY thing interchangeable with the civic, is the MOUNT attached to the frame of the civic, that attaches to the rear trans/motor mount (Torque brace or "T Bracket")

    EVERYTHING BETWEEN THE 2 (Clutch/Flywheel/pressure plate)

    Don't forget hardware for everything (including the bolts for the mid-shaft, bolts for the trans, bolts for the flywheel, etc, EVERYTHING)

    Plumbing:
    A few changes in hosing occur in this swap, so you will need:

    the LONGER hose off the teggy motor that goes to the heater core, the rest can be used from the civic.

    the fuel line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail, as the civics is too short

    *You may need the upper and lower rad hoses too, I dunno since my motor came with them and the worked, I'll check later if they are close enough to the civics to re-use your origionals, although I believe the water necks off the block are LARGER than the civics, so you will most likely need these hoses*

    if I'm forgetting anything let me know guys!

    Chapter 1:

    Pull the old one out.

    This is FAR easier said than done, and I feel was the HARDEST part of the project.

    Drain your coolant/oil before you get ahead of yourself so you don't get drenched in fluids

    Once all your fluids are empty, remove your Radiator, and put your drain plug back in again.

    At this point, continue to disconnect everything, Specifically be aware of Grounds, Vacuum lines, and the heater-core lines. once the motor has NOTHING but the mounts holding it place we can get to the axles and linkage.

    To pop out your axles you have to start by punching out the axle nut *If you look at the axle nut you will see what I mean*

    [​IMG]

    Next step is breaking the axle nuts loose with the car still on the ground, I had to stand and jump on my breaker bar (225lbs) to get it to get loose, but it didn't take to long luckily.

    Once this is loose take your wheels off and pull the cotter pins out of the castle nuts on your lower ball joints, then remove the castle nut *17mm IIRC*

    Once these nuts are off smack on the sides of where the ball join sits *The metal part, not the joint* to help shake it a little loose, then pull up on your knuckle to get the balljoint to drop off the knuckle.

    Once that joint has been dropped, remove your lower strut fork bolt to finish dropping your lower control arm so once the axle is loose, it will be able to come out *As you cannot fit it through the fork*

    you can now tug the axles out of the transmission, you may need a heavy duty long flat-head screwdriver or a Pry-Bar to pop them out of the trans (I used a 10lb Crow-bar)

    once your axles are out, the next big step is getting the linkage and stablizer bars off the car. (This took me nearly 4 hours, you have been warned)

    First thing is to drop everything under the passenger compartment as far as the linkage and stabilizer bar goes. (Basically unbolt everything under the car related to the shifter where the shifter comes through the floor, be sure to remove the shiftknob, the boot, and center console before doing this so it will be able to drop out of the car, this took me a LONG time because most everything was rusted away, take your time, I'd almost recommend dropping your exhaust to make it easier)

    Once that has all been dropped you can unbolt the stablizer from your transmission (2 12mm bolts IIRC) and it will be totally removed, now the last thing between you and victory is the bitch pin:

    *a friend of mine holding the bitch pin*

    [​IMG]

    You are supposed to be able to punch that out of the transmission where the linkage attaches or you can just cut the linkage off right there...

    I choose the later,

    [​IMG]

    a $5 hack saw, and 2 min of sawing later it was free. (BE SURE TO CUT THE LINKAGE AFTER THE COUPLER *as per the pic*, AND NOT THE PART ATTACHED TO THE TRANSMISSION)

    I broke 2 punches and a screwdriver on it trying to get it out, it is a BITCH.

    once the axles are out, the linkage is all dropped, and everything is disconnected, remove your radiator so it is out of the way when you are lifting and droping your engines.

    You can now chain up your engine hoist and get ready to rip that fooker out!

    [​IMG]

    You are best off removing the mounts from both the car and the engine so they are all out of your way.

    once all the mounts are off, rip it out!


    Chapter 2:
    Once its out,

    [​IMG]

    Get your new one in!

    [​IMG]

    (Be sure again, to remove the lower stabilizer brackets off the trans and engine before dropping in the motor, but be sure to LEAVE the top trans and top motor mount still attached. Also If you have an automatic engine, be sure to remove the bracket that 'supports' the intake manifold off the block as it will block you from being able to put the T-bracket in later. *I'm still working on a few 'snafoo's with the automatic engine with manual trans*)

    Drop it in, bolting the 2 top mounts in once you have them in place, once they are both in place, put the rest of the mounts back on (T bracket will have to be put on from underneath, I haven't figured out a better way to do this just yet, maybe it is possible to leave it on while dropping in the engine)

    Once the motor is in place you can begin re-attaching all the vac/coolant lines, and you can simply plug the OBD2 wiring harness into the OBD1 shock-towers without any problem.

    attach the fuel, and power/grounds, and your girl will be ready to fire up!

    At this point, you can put the 1994-2000 Integra axles/midshaft into the car (I didn't get hardware to mount the midshaft whoops)

    After that is done, re-attach all your suspension bits, get your wheels back on, tighten up your axle nuts and punch them back down so they won't back off.

    Lastly, attach all your new 94-00 Integra LS shift linkage to your car, and transmission, be aware that you need all new shifter bushings as well as NOTHING from the civic shifter is reusable on this swap minus the mounts under the passenger compartment.

    so once everything is back together again, Drop in your PR4 or P75 ECU and fire her up!

    I will edit this in another week as I still have a few things to finish up *Ala installing new shift linkage as I don't have all the bushings and mounting up the mid-shaft and rear T-bracket*

    But to answer a few more questions, the car started right up with my chipped P05 (Chipped with Vtec for a D16Y8 mini-me swap DEFINATLY not meant for this motor)

    and there is no need for any Acura Integra suspension bits for this swap at all.

    Hope you all liked the read, this swap was EXTREMELY easy, and took me maybe 12 hours total (the Bitch Pin consuming about 4 of those hours, and I had to mount my flywheel/clutch/pressure plate and attach my transmission to my motor as well as the fact that I've NEVER done a motor swap before in my life!!!)

    *edit* forgot to mention if you didn't see the pics, I did it outside on a gravel driveway in the snow, so 12 hours for a first time swap is haulin ass if you ask me.

    This swap is a GREAT cheap alternative to the common B16 SIR2 swap as well as an EVEN cheaper alternative to GSR/ITR swaps. Yes it won't rev as high, but its a very grunty motor and LOVES boost, and again is MUCH cheaper than other swaps.

    I've spent sub $750 on EVERYTHING to get the motor in this car and ready to roll, only things I have left to buy are an ECU, some bolts, and a Teggy fuel line from the fuel filter. (So another maybe $65)

    Happy Swapping!
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. jbdakid

    jbdakid Member

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    Great great write up. I have a 92 CX hatch and I'm doing the exact same swap so this is a big help.

    Also I think it's gangster how you did the swap outdoors in the snow....lol

    Oh yeah, the secret to getting the shift linkage bolt out/in is to use the bolts from the AC compressor.

    [​IMG]

    It's the perfect size.
     
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2008
  3. Dasfinc

    Dasfinc New Member

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    I've noticed there are lots of write-ups for 96-00 swaps, and GSR swaps into 92-95's but not much for the loley LS swap, so I figured "Why not document it!"

    Thanks, it was very gangster doing it in the cold (Boy did it suck, but I wanted it done)
     
  4. BrutalB83

    BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Moderator VIP

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    So what happened to the Mini Me? Wasn't cutting it for you anymore?

    Nice write-up by the way! :thumbsup:
     
  5. Dasfinc

    Dasfinc New Member

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    The MiniMe was a bit of a letdown, when using my milled Y8 head on a B8 block with a Y8 gasket the compression is quite high *about 11.1:1* and there were alot of timing issues involved when using the Y8 head that people with the Z6 mini-me swaps don't have so I blew the headgasket 3 times despite it being torqued right the last 2 times
    OBD2 B18B1 into 92 Civic CX - HondaSwap Forums
    but regardless, it was still a gutless dog out of the hole and the CX transmission only has 2 usable gears, First and Second. Third gear redlines at 155mph so the car would fall straight onto its face about 85mph so I was getting kinda sick of spending money on it, and couldn't find an EX tranny that wasn't destroyed within 200 miles of me that was forsale. (I think the thing that killed it too was finding out that my 2007 ford focus was faster by about 2 car lengths by the time they both hit 100.)

    I got a CRAZY deal on a B18B1 longblock right after tax time so I basically said "Sure, why the hell not" and spent maybe $750 on the swap.

    Oh, here's a picture of my Bum-ass working on one of the rusted out stablizer mounts:

    [​IMG]

    And a pic of buddy of mine and my Fiance laughing at me trying to figure out what to do about the bitch pin.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2008
  6. Dasfinc

    Dasfinc New Member

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    Wow, totally forgot, Here's the money shot everyone:

    [​IMG]
     
  7. BrutalB83

    BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Moderator VIP

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    Looks real nice man! Now clean that bitch up, strip down that valve cover and throw some paint on it, and grab yourself an intake, and you're set! :D
     
  8. Dasfinc

    Dasfinc New Member

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    I need to get a bigger coupler to fit my Civic intake onto it ;)

    and yea, I still have to clean the motor bay and strip the valve cover, but I'm aiming for function over form first :ph34r:
     
  9. BrutalB83

    BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Moderator VIP

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    Sounds like a plan...pretty things that don't work aren't very useful, heh heh...
     
  10. jbdakid

    jbdakid Member

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    I did the same swap recently (96 LS into a 92 CX) but I have a question. There are 2 vacuum lines that I'm not sure where they go...

    [​IMG]

    Did you face this problem? Can you help, or anybody that knows.

    Big thanks in advance!!
     
  11. LS_VTEC

    LS_VTEC you get the BRAKE

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    You can plug those. They are just there for emissions.
     
  12. Dasfinc

    Dasfinc New Member

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    My CX only had one spare hose, and as mentioned by LS_VTEC, I just plugged it.
     
  13. Dasfinc

    Dasfinc New Member

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    Some more money shots:

    *JUST fired up, hence SRS and all the other lights*
    [​IMG]

    *Messy interior with my shiney new GSR shift knob*
    [​IMG]

    *The money shot*
    [​IMG]
     
  14. jbdakid

    jbdakid Member

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    hmmm, you only had one spare hose? What do you think I missed? And if I just plug them, do you think I will pass an emissions test?

    Thanks.
     
  15. daveholiday

    daveholiday Do work

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    Now all you need to do is throw some stickers on your car to add an extra million horsepower.

    Make sure you get the Intel-Inside ripoff sticker, that says "Vtec Inside."


    Just kidding. Looks great man, hows it runnin? Any other plans for it now?
     
  16. 94 tird

    94 tird New Member

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    so your saying you just plugged the obd2 integra harness into the car and into the engine and everythings fine? im starting the same exact swap in 2 weeks and everyones telling me that i have to hack both harnesses and in the end use the cx harness. if i can plug the teg harness in then nice! but is that why your dash lights are all messed up? by the way your post is gonna be very helpful.
     
  17. BrutalB83

    BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Moderator VIP

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    I'm pretty sure that's what he did. The 92-95 Civic's engine bay is almost exactly the same as the 94-01 Integra's, so if you've got the entire harness and ECU, you can just rip all the old stuff out, put the new stuff in, and run it as OBD2. Hacking the harnesses together is one way to do it, but if you've got the entire Integra harness available and you plan on running OBD2, there's no point to it really.

    I'll let Dasfinc answer for sure though...
     
  18. jbdakid

    jbdakid Member

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    It's easier than that!You can run the engine as OBD1. The obd2 harness off of the 96 LS motor will plug right into the shock tower harnesses on both sides of the civic engine bay (obd1). Then use an obd1 p75 or PR4 ECU to run it. No changes to the harness needed.

    I have a 92 civic cx and I dropped a 96 LS into it and used the PR4 ecu and it started up with no CEL and it runs good.
     
  19. Dasfinc

    Dasfinc New Member

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    jbdakid has it dead on! Same exact setup I have, 92 CX, with a 96 LS.

    the main engine harness on all 94-01 Tegs have the same shock tower plugs *Harness on the car side* and they plug right in, you can then simply buy an OBD1 (which is more useful anyways) P75 or PR4.

    As far as 'all my lights being on' mentioned earlier, I had JUST started the car, hence SRS, etc, but after it ran for another 2 seconds, everything turned off except CEL *I ran the codes, it was because I had no header on the car, so it was throwing a "No O2" code, that was all it was. Also, to clear any doubts, I'm using a OBD1 PR4 ECU, works just fine.
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2008
  20. Dasfinc

    Dasfinc New Member

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    There are some key *Obnoxious* differences, the extra vac lines as mentioned, the mish-mosh of coolant lines you need off of both engines, and the fuel line from the filter has to be replaced with one from a teggy as well.

    But yes, the wiring and even most of the holes in the engine bay are identical *the throttle cable, and throttle cable bracket from the teggy bolted right into where the civic one was, worked perfect*
     
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