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OBD2 d16y7 into an EF

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by Annihilator, Mar 10, 2010.

  1. Annihilator

    Annihilator Honda destroyer

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    Ok guys, I know this is an unusual swap to ask about, but I just bought an '89 Civic hatchback and it burns oil like a maniac when you go full throttle and is quite sluggish. I'm thinking about swapping the d16y7 that came out of my '96 Civic hatchback (swapped it with an LS-turbo setup)...but I can't decide if it's worth waiting to have enough money and just swap a b20 and go OBD1.

    Any help is really appreciated. I really need a reliable daily driver, as the turbo car broke the transmission last week, but I'll eventually turn the EF into an autocross/road course car.

    Thanks,
    - Steven
     
  2. OGMatt

    OGMatt Not a real OG lol

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    If u need a reliable dd i'd just put the Y7 into the EF with the EF intake and exhaust manifolds for the time being. bolt in...badda bing, badda bang
     
  3. Annihilator

    Annihilator Honda destroyer

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    Do I not need to change up the distributor or anything? I don't know if the obd0 d-series distributor will bolt onto the y7 motor or not. I'm mainly wondering about that as well as the wiring harness.

    Thanks for such a quick reply.

    - Steven
     
  4. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    You have both- see if they mount up.

    If you read through all the "mini-me" guides out there, the non-OBD distributor is supposed to bolt up to the Y8 head but not the Z6 head. Maybe the same will hold true for the non-VTEC engines?
     
  5. josh_crewdson@y

    josh_crewdson@y New Member

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    The obd0 d series dizzy bolts onto a y8 head, so it should def bolt to the y7.
     
  6. josh_crewdson@y

    josh_crewdson@y New Member

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    Also use the sensors off of the obd0 motor if the obd2 sensors don't match the harness plug.
     
  7. Annihilator

    Annihilator Honda destroyer

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    Nice thanks for all of the info guys. I'm going to first try and see if I can't make the stock d15 run a little better. Looks like whoever "rebuilt" the motor probably retarded the cam timing by a tooth, and they really didn't tension the belt properly. Hopefully the oil burning is just coming from valve stem seals, but we will see.

    Thanks again for the help guys. I thought it'd be more complicated than that, but I'm glad it's not.

    - Steven

    edit - the reason I'm going to try and fix the d15 is so it still qualifies for the ST class in SCCA autocross. I don't think anyone locally will give me hell for doing the swap, but any swap is technically illegal for that class.
     
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2010
  8. bsbllpss

    bsbllpss world dominator

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    hey btw if you dont want that y7 ill take it off your hands:]
     
  9. Annihilator

    Annihilator Honda destroyer

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    I have one other stupid question...I was looking up the differences between the d15b1 and the d16y7 earlier, and it seems to me that putting an engine in that has ~30 more horsepower on the stock ECU could be dangerous. Should the stock ECU be an issue, or can I just counteract it by running some 89 octane instead of 87? I honestly don't know if the stock tune for the d15b1 is super conservative or not, but it doesn't seem like it'd be able to compensate for the change in airflow.
     
  10. bsbllpss

    bsbllpss world dominator

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    ive never seen anyone go bad from using that ecu with that motor, but hey as i said before shoot me a pm about that y7
     
  11. Annihilator

    Annihilator Honda destroyer

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    Update: I've ran into a bit of an issue. While most of the sensors are the same between the two motors, one of them is different. There is a sensor on the stock D15B1, near the oil pressure sensor/oil filter area under the intake manifold, it appears to be a coolant sensor, but the D16y7 block doesn't have a spot for that sensor. There is a port, but the threads are way different on the y7 motor. I did notice that the y7's coolant temp sensor is on the thermostat housing, whereas the D15b1 doesn't have a sensor on that housing. I'm wondering if maybe I can just cut the wires on the harness and extend them to the thermostat housing and see if that'll work. Otherwise I don't know what to do.

    Also, I hate the stupid wristpin thing that holds one of the shifter linkages in. I've had a hard time removing that thing on all of the transmissions I've ever worked on. Should be able to get it out once I get the right punch for the job. I also mangled up the timing belt cover trying to remove the motor mount bracket, mainly because I was just too lazy to take the crank pulley off, since my impact at 100psi wouldn't break the bolt loose, lol.

    Aside from that, it looks like it's going to be a pretty straightforward swap, aside from being super nasty, I'll blame that on the previous owner and his poor "rebuild" that leaks like a mofo.

    - Steven
     
  12. D16SiHatch

    D16SiHatch New Member

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    you got it. that's exactly what you need to do :)
     
  13. Annihilator

    Annihilator Honda destroyer

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    Thanks bud, that's exactly what I did and it worked :)

    Although on a downside, I believe the stock d15b1 catalytic converter is clogged, as it really doesn't seem to have picked up any power. I'll check in on gutting the cat sometime this weekend (work for the next couple days) and see if that does the trick. I can't believe I only missed one ground wire, and it was just not torqued down...other than that, everything ran perfect on the first try :)

    Thanks for the help everyone!

    - Steven
     
  14. andys hondas

    andys hondas New Member

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    any updates on this project? was the cat plugged? any more power? i have been looking at this swap for a while, but need a replacement engine for where the d16y7 comes from lol
     
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