OBDII 97 EK swap to B18B1 non-vtec

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<img src="catimgs/13S030_B04.gif">
thats the civic
PN 19689

<img src="http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/acura/jsp/mws/catimgs/13st70_b0401.gif">
thats the integra
PN 16722-P75-A01


its different so i guess i do need a 94+ b series fuel feed line .. was suppose to get one today the guy lagg on me so we'll see bout tomomrrow :(
 
13S030_B04.gif

thats the civic
PN 19689

13st70_b0401.gif


its different so i guess i do need a 94+ b series fuel feed line .. was suppose to get one today the guy lagg on me so we'll see bout tomomrrow
 
rear disc brake swap in the works

OK....I know there is a ton of stuff out there on 96-00 Civic rear brake swaps. I should have it under control, however there is something that popped up after I purchased my 98 Integra rear suspension with sway bar all for $60 from craigslist. I realized I had a rear ABS disc brake system from the Integra. Does anyone know if I can still use the ABS Integra disc brake hardware on my non-ABS Civic if I just remove the electrical ABS components? What are the drawbacks, if any, of installing this swap if it works?
 
There's no drawbacks. My eg has front and rears from an ABS integra gsr. Just leave the sensor unplugged and ignore it.
 
There's no drawbacks. My eg has front and rears from an ABS integra gsr. Just leave the sensor unplugged and ignore it.

That's good to hear. I did a teardown of the Integra disc suspension and decided to just replace all the bushings. I also physically removed the ABS magnetic pickups from the spindle assemblies. Looks there will be no issues. The suspensions are in pretty bad shape. Guess that's why I got the setup so cheap. I'm sure it will feel tight when I'm all done. Thanks for the info.
 
think the suspension will fit a 97 dx??

Yeah. The 94-01 Integra and 96-00 Civic are supposed to have the same unibody structures. That means the drivetrain and suspension parts are interchangeable. Of course there are different flavors of each car and that's where the challenge comes in.....to research and build the biggest beast with off-the-shelf OEM parts that are perfectly safe and do not surpass original design specs to the point of ripping your unibody apart from too much torque etc....

The approach I've taken with my Civic go-cart is that it is a hobby and it has given me a chance to spend more time with my son and my brother at the same time. Money well spent. Just another idea I've always wondered about.......when I was in the USAF our jets all had phase inspections and retrofits where certain parts that are known to wear out get replaced on a regular basis or after X amount of flying time. Because of preventative maintenance our airframes are lasting up to 50+ years in some cases(B52). I'm feeling that way about my Civic now. I can work on it myself and I can budget ahead to buy whatever I need(timing belt, springs, struts, bushings, engine, clutch, brakes, tranny,...???) for preventative maintenance and just keep going. The only weakness I've found to this thought process is corrosion and parts supply. I now use lots of anti-sieze on everything I take apart and put back together. The ultimate would be to powdercoat the unibody and then seal it with undercoating. Anyway, I'm rambling on with my self-imposed tangent so ending here. Just to reitterate.....yep I think it will fit.:)
 
Uh-Oh.....emissions fail!

I knew this day was coming and 50K miles after swap the E check is due. Gee....wonder why the JDM ECU is not communicating with the E check software?!? I have 60 days to get a pass. I'm researching now and will post my solution. Right now my thought pattern is to replace the JDM ECU with an american ECU and then make the required changes to clear CELs. I know I'll need to add a second o2 sensor and a knock sensor.

Looks like the rear disc swap is on hold until I get this issue ironed out.
 
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emissions issue

I replaced my JDM ECU with a P75 A03 ECU. I'm throwing two engine codes now.....P0141-O2 sensor heater and P1337-crank sensor no signal. I need to add the second O2 sensor which is not a big deal, but the crank sensor is a problem. There is supposed to be a sensor/reader system using the engine crank and a sensor. Problem is that my JDM B18B1 didn't come with a crank sensor at all. Does anyone have info on how to bypass the crank sensor and not get a CEL for it? Researching and working toward a resolution here.
 
I replaced my JDM ECU with a P75 A03 ECU. I'm throwing two engine codes now.....P0141-O2 sensor heater and P1337-crank sensor no signal. I need to add the second O2 sensor which is not a big deal, but the crank sensor is a problem. There is supposed to be a sensor/reader system using the engine crank and a sensor. Problem is that my JDM B18B1 didn't come with a crank sensor at all. Does anyone have info on how to bypass the crank sensor and not get a CEL for it? Researching and working toward a resolution here.

Just found a bypass solution for the crank sensor issue: .:FFS TechNet:. ECU & WIRING How-To Articles CKF Bypass Trick Has anyone used this procedure sucessfully? Looking for verification that it works.
 
CKF bypass trick works so far!!

I've been methodically researching and working my emissions issue and I'm pretty close to clearing up all of my CELs. I started by replacing the JDM OBDIIa ECU with a USDM OBDII2a ECU. I instantly had CELs for the secondary O2 sensor heater and the crank sensor or CKF. First I ordered a universal O2 sensor for a 97 teg LS($28 + shipping)....I installed the new universal O2 sensor and still had a heater code P0141. I researched more and found that the heater circuit on the O2 sensor should measure 10ohms - 40ohms resistance. My new universal sensor(USOS-4000) measured only 4.5ohms. I went to radio shack and purchased a 10ohm/10Watt ceramic resistor and soldered it in series with the O2 sensor heater circuit wires and used heat shrink to seal it all. The P0141 code...gone! I ran the car to work and back today(120miles) and the P0141 code stayed off but I started to get P0136(secondary O2 sensor voltage fail) and P0441 (EVAP purge system) intermittantly. I decided to tackle the CKF CEL (P1337) as it is a hard fail and it may be causing other issues. I installed the CKF bypass trick as outlined at the following link: .:FFS TechNet : CKF Bypass Trick :.
Instead of hacking my harness I pulled the board out of the ECU and soldered jumpers across the C1-C4 and C11-C14 pins respectively(OBDIIa). Went for a 3 mile cruise tonight and no CELs at all! I'm still going to keep an eye out for the EVAP purge and secondary O2 volt fail issues as they were intermittant. I have a high flow cat installed and I found/used a method to keep the secondary O2 sensor out of the cat for more of a measured difference, hence causing the ECU not to throw a bad cat CEL. I picked up two 18mm non-foulers from the local NAPA store and drilled out the center to 1/2 inch so the O2 sensor fully seats. Installed both non-foulers and O2 sensor into the secondary O2 location. This may need a little more attention if the O2 sensor volt failure returns. I have no clue about the EVAP purge issue.....The vacuum line that ran to the old D16Y7 intake is now running to the B18b1 intake. Hopefully all will be stable now. I'll try to post some pics soon.
 
Last emissions issue is EVAP purge flow

Update.......O2 sensor is working great and the crank sensor fix is working great, however I still get an intermittant EVAP purge flow pending code and once in a while it goes solid to a CEL. Researched the EVAP purge system and found that the JDM B18b1 never had a purge valve solenoid on it. I'm surprised I don't have a solid CEL for that! Anyway, I need to pick up an EVAP purge valve solenoid and install it. Not a biggie as the harness connector is there. These emissions parts are not sold aftermarket so it's a dealer item.....yippee. I'll update again after I get this squared away. Still planning on loading pics soon.
 
if it intermittent then why not reset ur ecu, wait for ur drive cycle readiness to go on then head straight to inspection station, i know here in new jersey we are allowed 1 to 2 drive to not be in ready mode usually is evap and catalyst that are the last to come on, just giving some options
 
if it intermittent then why not reset ur ecu, wait for ur drive cycle readiness to go on then head straight to inspection station, i know here in new jersey we are allowed 1 to 2 drive to not be in ready mode usually is evap and catalyst that are the last to come on, just giving some options

Solid advice. I know CT allows 1 system to not be ready. If I turn on the air conditioning during my first drive after an ECU reset, all but 1 system goes ready pretty quickly. The pending codes don't count as the CEL has not been tripped. My brother is sending me a used purge solenoid from his collection of parts. I'm going to try an E check this Sat morning to see if I can squeek by.
 
E check PASSED!!

I decided to go back to the emissions station yesterday afternoon for a recheck. I had to fill out a form saying I did the repair work. I checked off ECU and O2 sensor as repair items. The emissions tech was surprised to hear I did the work myself. So when I pulled into the parking lot I had 1 system not ready(catalyst) and 1 pending code(P0441) for purge flow. I was concerned that there would be a VIN check and engine size mismatch with the VIN but all went well. The tech scanned the VIN on the driver's side door jam and then took an ECU reading. The emissions sheet still shows my car with a 1.6 engine. It's been an interesting and educational experience. Good to go for another 2 years and 80,000 miles!
 
congrats! this thread is a really good read for technical info
 
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