1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Oil cooler DIY.

Discussion in 'Other Vehicle Discussions' started by jeffie7, Jul 31, 2010.

  1. jeffie7

    jeffie7 Wrong Whole! VIP

    Messages:
    12,934
    Likes Received:
    740
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2002
    Location:
    Maryland
    This could easily be used for any car. Just keep in mind, most stock cars have TONS of space for mounting coolers, many of them allowing you to bolt it directly to the bumper/crash bar. Something I aint got! =(

    Most of the parts list came from

    Custom oil cooler installed | Kohler Created

    Only thing I changed was the oil cooler, the one used in that link is a bit too small.

    Earl s Performance 41610ERL - Earl's Performance Temp-A-Cure Fluid Coolers - Overview - SummitRacing.com this one is 13x5 a tad bit bigger then the 8x5 and only 20 bucks more.

    I also used strips of aluminum from Lowes they ran me around 5 bucks a pop. got 2, 3 footers. one was maybe 1/2 inch while the other was 3/4 maybe?

    I used nothing but basic tools.

    wrenches
    screwdrivers
    hammer
    electric hand drill
    random drill bits
    punch for making little marks in the metal to help with drilling in the correct spot.
    files for sanding
    vice
    hacksaw
    Thread lock (the blue stuff)
    random nuts/bolts with lock washers and the nuts with the plastic inserts whatever they're called.

    [​IMG]

    Anyone who says they can't do their own work because they don't have a shop/garage all I can say is wahhh wahhh wahhhhhh

    The hardest part of this job was walking from the parking lot to the deck on the back of the house over and over and over.

    onto the pictures.

    [​IMG]

    I zipped tied it into place to see if my bumper cover would fit.

    [​IMG]

    My work shop was my railing. I only had to go downstairs to pick up random tools like 4 times.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The cooler is very solid, it feels like it's meant to be there. I'm not a big fan of the installs where it's just sorta kinda put in a spot with 2 little brackets sorta kind of holding it place.

    I would have liked to of put it on the passenger side due to the oil lines/turbo being on the driver side, but there was just too much going on over there. So it went to the drivers side. I ran the lines down between the intercooler and radiator. While I'm not a fan of how low the lines sit, they are not the lowest part of the car in fact the front bumper cover sits much lower so hopefully I have no issues with it.
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. GSRCRXsi

    GSRCRXsi Super Moderator Moderator VIP

    Messages:
    9,623
    Likes Received:
    345
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2002
    Location:
    MD
    i would have used a braided line. everything else looks pretty good. trying to figure out why you used crush washers AND nylock nuts though, not really necessary.
     
  3. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

    Messages:
    2,205
    Likes Received:
    216
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2008
    Location:
    Fort Worth, Texas
    Nice job - an oil cooler is a real good idea for a boosted build. Beautiful car too!
     
  4. jeffie7

    jeffie7 Wrong Whole! VIP

    Messages:
    12,934
    Likes Received:
    740
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2002
    Location:
    Maryland
    And lock tight. Because I could lol The thing I dislike about thee design is there's too many joints. This could be a problem down the road so I did everything I could to keep stuff from coming loose.

    I would have liked braided lines but there's two issues.
    Most of the oil cooler setups that use braided lines are an8 size. if I used an10 braided lines I would have had to run the lines down the front side of the I/C and under it back towards the sandwich plate.

    If I do have any problems with the lines down the road I can always swap them out. I always do visual inspections very often with the car. It's part of owning a boosted car. Back when I had the turbo civic I checked over all the major bolts/vac lines weekly
     
  5. jeffie7

    jeffie7 Wrong Whole! VIP

    Messages:
    12,934
    Likes Received:
    740
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2002
    Location:
    Maryland
    Welp got a rattle with one of the rear washers, so much for locktight =`( might have to double nut it.

    On another note I ran across a Yamaha R6 today that just so happened to want to play....

    poor guy lol.
     
  6. TurboMirage

    TurboMirage YEEAAAHHH VIP

    Messages:
    24,580
    Likes Received:
    696
    Joined:
    May 20, 2003
    Location:
    Central, MA
  7. TommyTheCat

    TommyTheCat Gonzo Scientist

    Messages:
    1,248
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2002
    Location:
    Minneapolis, MN
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 8, 2010
  8. jeffie7

    jeffie7 Wrong Whole! VIP

    Messages:
    12,934
    Likes Received:
    740
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2002
    Location:
    Maryland
    I'm lost.

    Pointing out that I spelled it wrong?
     
  9. GSRCRXsi

    GSRCRXsi Super Moderator Moderator VIP

    Messages:
    9,623
    Likes Received:
    345
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2002
    Location:
    MD
    looks like hes pointing out that you should use the red stuff and not that blue bullshit.
     
  10. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

    Messages:
    2,205
    Likes Received:
    216
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2008
    Location:
    Fort Worth, Texas
    If that's the case - prep is important. Any oil will render any threadlocking compound essentially useless.

    Do, douche it with carb cleaner, of use a cotton swab and carb cleaner, brake cleaner, alcohol and cotton swabs.

    Just be sure it's clean and free of oil before applying thread locking compound and reassembly.
     
  11. newb

    newb phresh VIP

    Messages:
    3,967
    Likes Received:
    179
    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2007
    Location:
    Backwoods Northwest
    Looks pretty solid. You trust the line between the IC and core support?
     
  12. TommyTheCat

    TommyTheCat Gonzo Scientist

    Messages:
    1,248
    Likes Received:
    11
    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2002
    Location:
    Minneapolis, MN
    Go ahead and get some MEK to clean your hardware.
     
  13. Andrew

    Andrew Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,685
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2006
    Location:
    Tallahassee, FL
    Methyl-Ethyl Keytone is the bomb for cleaning. We used it all the time on aircraft parts. It evaporates very quickly, leaving no residue. Careful though, it will eat paint if you don't watch it.
     
  14. reckedracing

    reckedracing TTIWWOP VIP

    Messages:
    21,057
    Likes Received:
    1,180
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2002
    Location:
    NY
    2 things
    i noticed you used crush washers as spacers between 2 pieces of metal
    they only act as a lock washer if they are between the nut and the metal

    nylon lock nuts - the nylon melts when exposed to heat
    keep that in mind
     
  15. klyph

    klyph Dismember VIP

    Messages:
    6,342
    Likes Received:
    262
    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2006
    Location:
    North Pole, AK
    [​IMG]

    It looks like the oil line between the IC and bumper/frame could get a hole rubbed in it by that metal edge. I'd keep my eye on that, you don't want to lose an oil line while beating up on street bikes.
     
  16. jeffie7

    jeffie7 Wrong Whole! VIP

    Messages:
    12,934
    Likes Received:
    740
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2002
    Location:
    Maryland
    Shouldn't be an issue but yes, as with any heavily modded cars things like oil lines get inspected every few hundred miles.
     
  17. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

    Messages:
    2,205
    Likes Received:
    216
    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2008
    Location:
    Fort Worth, Texas
    It sure is. I use it to cut Rustoleum when spraying too. Flows nicely, smooth finish and dries and cures real nice.

    It's not available in some states - California for one. Fortunatley for me, it's still available over the counter in Texas.

    MEK is a main ingredient in paint remover.

    :cool:
     
Verification:
Draft saved Draft deleted

Share This Page