Ok, I'm stuck.

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yes, the "larger dish" is a valve relief. the larger ones belong on the intake side, the smaller on the exhaust. if you have them backwards, pistons can contact valves, which is no fun.
 
Thanks guys! I kinda had a feeling, but I wasn't sure.

Blanco, there are no markings on these pistons. And nothing is said in the installation instructions. You would think JE would put that in the instructions, but I guess not lol.

Anyway, thanks alot guys. +Rep again.

EDIT: Well, +Rep when I can lol.
 
Oh, I almost forgot. This isn't necessarily needed right now, but its just a question.

Since I will be running Crower Cams with Crower valvetrain (stock valves im planning on if I can), and a built bottom end.. Will it be safe to turn more RPM's than the stock rev limiter? I'll only do that if the engine is still making power past the stock rev limiter, of course.

Thanks again guys.

EDIT: Here's a link to the valve springs and retainers I plan on using:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bria...008QQitemZ180237561730QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
 
Oh, I almost forgot. This isn't necessarily needed right now, but its just a question.

Since I will be running Crower Cams with Crower valvetrain (stock valves im planning on if I can), and a built bottom end.. Will it be safe to turn more RPM's than the stock rev limiter? I'll only do that if the engine is still making power past the stock rev limiter, of course.

Thanks again guys.

EDIT: Here's a link to the valve springs and retainers I plan on using:
eBay Motors: Brian Crower Valve Springs & Retainer b18a b18b Integra (item 180237561730 end time May-08-08 06:41:54 PDT)


The head can handle it, but the bottom end unfortunately will only hold up for so long. Ive learned in my many years of ls-vtec's, that built or not, long rod stroke and high rpm do not mix well. Sure you can get away with it, maybe for 3+ months, but it will not last. My advice is to buy a cam for mid-range power, something good to 8200rpm. Stay away from long duration cams.

Also, a previous post you made, you asked about how to torque the main bolts down. Three times is not neccessary for the mains, but the rod bolts, yes. And pay attention to wet spec/dry spec here also, this is important. Also, plastigage your main/rod bearing and make sure they are within oem specs. Also, it isnt going to be "easy" to spin the crankshaft when its all torqued down. It should move, but with some hesitation being your using brand new bearings. Good luck with your build! :thumbsup:
 
Well, I have Crower stage 2 turbo cams. Hopefully I can make power a little past the stock range, that'd make me happy.
 
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