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Old Problem, Revisted

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by YBLEGAL, Nov 12, 2006.

  1. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    Ok, I've posted this problem twice before but I still havn't got a solution.

    The Issue:
    With the TPS adjusted to .5v the car will not maintain a constant speed. I have a "rev point" at 1500rpm. If I press the throttle enough I can pass by this point without hessitation. This makes it very hard to go slow. Note, I can go to WOT. TPS reads 4.65v approx.

    With the TPS adjusted to .8v or higher, I can maintain a constant speed. No 1500rpm "rev point". I just can't go WOT. TPS reads 4.98v at WOT, but I know it's going over 5v, causing the engine to just, not do anything. I suppose it just cuts off fuel.

    *When you turn on the AC your RPMs are supposed to increase, mine does not.

    Attempted Solutions:
    Replaced IACV, checked, and tested. Deffinatly works.
    New TPS sensor.
    New MAP sensor.
    Hondata S200 is on the way. Main reason I bought it is to fix these problems. Tuning is a nice bonus.

    I've set the idle according to the procedure.

    Modifications That Pertain To This:
    I've got a 70mm throttle body from a company called Power. I've never heard of them, but it looks well made. Cast, not bored. I had to take the peice that connects to the throttle cable off my old throttle body and put it on the new one because the new one accepted the cable from the opposite direction.

    Misc Other Info:
    I've had the 1500rpm problem even with the old TB. I never adjusted the TPS on that one so I don't know of the other problems existed, or what voltage that was set at. Also with the old TB, I couldn't go slower than certian speeds depending on the gear I was in. Example: 4th gear couldn't go slower than 40mph or the car would make you go 40mph. 1st gear went a minimum of 20mph. With the TPS voltage adjusted to .82v like I have now on my new TB, I can go 20 in 5th if I want, it won't make me speed up.

    So I'm setting a few goals:
    1. I want the 1500rpm issue resolved.
    2. I want the ability to floor it.
    3. Fix the AC issue.

    The Deal:
    Here's what I'm going to do, to encourage and repay you knowledgable tuners out there taking the time to read all this.

    25 dollars to the person with the solution to goals 1 and 2 before I get my Hondata system hooked up.
    50 dollars to the person with the solution to goals 1 and 2 after I get my Hondata hooked up if I can't spot the problem myself.
    A large thanks to the person with the solution to the AC. :D


    After I get the Hondata installed, I'll be more than willing to give out datalogs I will have recorded if necessary.

    I only posted in this section because my car is a 2000 Honda Civic EX w/ a JDM '95 Del Sol SiR II running on a P30 ECU swapped into it. These issues have been with me since the swap. OBD1 conversion harness.

    Hondata was ordered 6 days ago from this time of posting. So it should be here soon...

    So c'mon people!!! PLEASE help me get rid of this!
     
  2. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    *bump*

    hondata still isn't in yet. should be by friday according to inline four. found out why i cant floor it. The plate was actually opening too much. but i still need to find out why when the tps is adjusted to .5 volts the car runs really harshly.

    i'm kinda disapointed... 35 views so far, not even a single guess... :(

    c'mon guy's and gal's!

    someone can start by telling me what happens if they set the TPS too low. Then what if it's set too high.
     
  3. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    again i'm tinkering in the garage today, and i notice if the car is warm, when i start it, the idle rpm will increase about 600rpm untill it chills out. Maybe it's a temperature sensor telling the IACV to open? I do believe this is the source of the AC problem mentioned prior...but any ideas on troubleshooting?
     
  4. hondarin

    hondarin Please enter a value using 50 characters or fewer. VIP

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    i'm kinda going out on a limb here, but some of the problems you are talking about kind of sound like an O2 sensor problem. just my two cents tho. maybe try unplugging the O2 sensor and see if it will run on the open loop/closed loop program, whatever it's called
     
  5. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    so i just unplug the o2 sensor and see if the IACV is open when i start the car? what's this closed loop thing ur talking about? Computer's preprogramed table to run on if no input from that source?? Thanks
     
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