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OMG PLEASE HELP 98 Lincoln Navigator

Discussion in 'Other Vehicle Discussions' started by gunz2165, Jan 18, 2013.

  1. gunz2165

    gunz2165 Member

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    I have a 98 lincoln navigator with a freaking boat load of problems. Heres the list of what its doing and then ill give a list of what ive done. Any and all help is seriously needed and appreciated. The truck wont idle past 600rpms and when first started bounce from 400rpms to 600rpms. It will stall out if your not on the throttle. The whole truck shakes from how hard tje engine is shaking. It has white smoke coming from the exhaust. I've never had the check engine light come on but it did through codes. First thing i did was changed plugs and coil boots. After i did that it got worse an It said both up stream heated o2 sensors heater element bad both down stream o2 sensors bad. I changed all 4 o2 sensors and cleared the codes.still no check engine light but still says all 4 are bad and now also misfire cylinder 2 and bank 2 running lean. I read up and checked the egr valve hose the pcv hose to the manifold all was good. I took the mass air flow sensor off and cleaned it with electric contact cleaner and did nothing to help. Can anyone tell me what the hell i missed and what ican do to fix this damn truck please, its driving me freaking nuts
     
  2. Magana559

    Magana559 The Warden

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    Tps, head gasket, injectors bank2, vac leak, idle control valve, fuel pressure, mass air flow sensor, and a mechanic if all else fails.
     
  3. Celerity

    Celerity Well-Known Member

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    Oh. My. God.


    This thing will never run again. Seriously. These trucks are so buggy and inter-connected that a simple problem could be anything. And that anything will cost hundreds to replace and hours to install.

    In a lincoln LS it took me $1600 in parts to fix power windows. The power window module also corrected the ignition module problem (It wouldn't start occasionally, and then not for days )

    In a Navigator I had a dim headlight problem. The module cost me $800 and took 4 hours to implement.

    From that point on, I just told people to give up. But I'm willing to bet it's corrosion in a module. Try increasing the number of grounds from the body to the engine (Like, add 30 wires) and tell me if it makes a difference. Doesn't have to be major grounds, just wires. But make sure you have a bunch of ground wires hooked up before attempting to start it (If it has a bad ground issue, hooking up on 12 gauge wire to the engine will only cause it to feed that current through that single wire, and will make it melt pretty goddam quick)

    Best of luck. And sell this thing.
     
  4. gunz2165

    gunz2165 Member

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    Ok here's a quick update. I had the charging system checked an my battery i just put in this past august needed to b replaced but the alternator showed fine. I just threw my volt meter on it and its showing 13 volts at the alternator an batt. But then i start the truck its showing no output from the alternator. Put it on the batt an the volts r going up to 15 volts then dwn to 0 with the erratic idle from the engine. I think the voltage regulator is bad. Also i noticed that my tensioner pulley was moving about 1/4 inch up an dwn while running. So i pulled on the belt an had no problem moving it all. The belt seems a lil shotty but im not sure if that would cause all my problems any thoughts? Also my 11 yr old found a chassis ground wire under the truck by the pass front door that's broken
     
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