only iron sleeves with 85mm bore

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if i bore my b18c block to 85mm, i know i will have to get iron sleeves because the stock sleeves will not hold up. but will i have to get it with a close deck or could i just get iron sleeves and not have a close deck? or i have no choice because getting iron sleeves comes with a close deck? i know having close deck its mainly for motors thats running force induction. im going all motor.
 
the pics on importbuilders regarding sleeves arent closed deck? because i see the sleeves but i also see the teeth around them. i believe thats the way GE make there close deck. its just a different design they came up with.

let me try to explain it alittle better, i just want IRON SLEEVES if possilbe. the pics on IB, there sleeves with the teeth around them cost as much as a closed deck.
 
When a sleeve is pressed in,a closed deck or reinforced as in the GE Sleeves (better coolant flow with less hotspotting),are more stable from side to side movement and it also reinforces the bore, as well as keeping the sleeve from "Sinking". You can get just iron sleeves, but if you are getting the machine work done Anyways, why would'nt you want the most stable?

Edit: The Teeth are about 1/2" down from the top of the sleeve top and limit the movement at the top and keep them from sinking.
JIM
 
you got a point there about wanting it to be more stable, but what is the price difference on having them and not having them?

how bout people who have a stock bore (which is 81mm for b-series) and instead of boring it out, they decide just to put pistons and rods without getting sleeves and they do a lot of high revving. is it safe for them even though they have stock sleeves? cause if its safe then me having iron sleeves should be even better rite?
unless 85mm is just too wide of a bore just to have iron sleeves only.

im trying to get as much info about this subject before i start building my motor.
 
not really sure on price difference

Alot of people do upgrade the pistons and rods especially if their going to boost the motor,so yes it will be alot stronger than the stock sleeves,stock sleeves have a steel liner surrounded by aluminum so thats why builders will reccomend only boring stock sleeves out to 81.5mm as the sleeves will become weak.

I measured the GE HD Sleeves thickness out to be 7mm and GE Claims that those sleeves will hold 70 Psi of boost :ph34r: ,my pistons and rods will go before that!!!!!
 
i would see a reason for you to have either a close deck or something like GE provides for their block because your going turbo, but me im going all motor. although it would be more stable with a close deck, but do you think its necessary that i need? shouldnt just having iron sleeves enough for all motor?

i, by no means trying to agrue with you, just getting info.

appreciate the replies.
 
well atleast 210+whp...im going for a b18c 85mm bore with atleast a 11:5:1 compression with a semi-built b16a head. the only thing ill be missing for the head is P&P.
 
Originally posted by allmotorbeasteg6@Aug 30 2004, 10:32 PM
i would see a reason for you to have either a close deck or something like GE provides for their block because your going turbo, but me im going all motor. although it would be more stable with a close deck, but do you think its necessary that i need? shouldnt just having iron sleeves enough for all motor?

i, by no means trying to agrue with you, just getting info.

appreciate the replies.
[post=384056]Quoted post[/post]​


Open deck is fine, semi-closed like Golden Eagle is better... but you'll be fine on the stock sleeve setup for an all motor application, even up to 210whp or more. Just tune it right, and don't try to bore more than .5mm over.
 
An open deck sleeve is good enough for 90% of the builds out there. Even the 600-800hp race blocks that we do are on the same Open deck sleeves that all the street setups that we do.
and for all motor, its good enough as well. there's no need for a closed deck setup.
actually if you are only shooting for 210-220hp to the wheels. sleeved big bore block isnt even necesarry. you can make that hp with a good head package and cam combo on just an 81.5mm bore 12:1 piston block.
 
:werd:

I've watched a GSR block put down 195whp with just bolt ons and Skunk2 stage 1 cams, so with a compression bump, more aggressive cams, and some port work on the head, you could easily make 210-220 with good tuning.
 
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