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Opinion (b20 Vtec Vs. Type R)

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by L1G2integ58, Mar 27, 2003.

  1. L1G2integ58

    L1G2integ58 Junior Member

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    Sup ya'll... this question is for the TRUE RACERS out there.

    I got a '93 integ LS special and i was thinkin bout getting a swap, but i have a little decision problem. Can't descide whether or not to get a B20 vtec or an Integra Type R motor.
    And my question is, which one performs better on the TRACK & STREETS, 1/4 mile & Freeway, and which is more reliable, and which on is better for my car?
    Here are da specs:

    1)*2.0 B20b block, gsr head, JE cams - offerd at $2500, motor only (not installed).
    -OR-
    2)*1.8 B18c5 (Type R) JDM '97 - offerd at $3700, motor only (not installed).

    *Either motor is gonna connect to the existing tranny i have on the LS motor right now
    or I might get a YS1 LSD tranny.
    *S1 cable tranny (Si tranny) w/ Custom Clutch work, Exedy preassure plate.
    *Future additions to tranny is a new clutch and either Spoon Sports Flywheel or Type R Flywheel.

    Well, your opinions do matter. Im open to any suggestions and hopefully ya'll can help me decide which motor to get. Thanks for your time.

    *(415) Lethal InjectionG2integ58
     
  2. hondaguy72

    hondaguy72 Member

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    The b20 block isn't designed for high rpms like the type r. The block girdle the type R has and the better valvetrain allow for fantastic performance. With a simple piston change they can be configured for turbo setups that kick ass. Check out www.theoldone.com for piston applications. The b20's are best for a boosted setup without vtec. The big bore gives phenomenal bottom end...I have a n/a b20 in my 93lx and it kicks ass over any bolt on ls or b16 motored car. The pistons in the b20 motors can't handle much boost though. For a daily driver, I'd choose a boosted b20 car because the powerband is right there, from off idle to 6500.
     
  3. Junior00

    Junior00 Junior Member

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    Dont get a YS1 LSD Tranny. I have on in my 90 Integra with a B16 in it and the gearing sucks ass. Get a J1 or S1 tranny as they are almost the same gearing as a ITR tranny.
     
  4. brc80

    brc80 Senior Member

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    Junior00 how can you hate the gearing of YS1 if not for that tranny with that motor in that car, you would get stomped on. The short gearing gets you into vtec that much faster, and thats where your power is.
     
  5. iamane12d

    iamane12d Member

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    b20 can be compared to a ITR??
     
  6. xj0hnx

    xj0hnx I wanna be sedated VIP

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    It can be built to compare.
     
  7. BlackJDMdeath

    BlackJDMdeath Senior Member

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    funny... crvtec isnt built for high rpm?? a little birdy on here told me differently...

    PS- just because it revs to a billion RPM doesnt mean it makes assloads of power ;)
     
  8. vtecsir1

    vtecsir1 Senior Member

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    crvtec without mods isnt safe to rev high.
     
  9. Domeskilla

    Domeskilla Senior Member

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    Utter bullshit y0. Stop reading and go fucking play with one. Calesta, on stock sleeves, with eagle rods and endyn pistons, ARP bolts held the bottom end. Seen 8500 often. Held together for 45000 miles until driver error.

    A crvtec will cost more, when properly done. Its hard to buy a pre-made crvtec unless you know the work on it, b/c if someone cut corners or doesn't know what they are doing, you are buying a p.o.s. There is a science to it.

    EDIT- Zac is right, 10,000 rpm's does not mean it will haul ass, if that was true, then Camaro/Firebirds revving to only 7500 wouldn't run mid-low 10's, now would they?
     
  10. Slo86GT

    Slo86GT Super Moderator

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    The CRV siamese sleeve design is highly fragile in any engine with more than 250 HP at the wheels, or any engine that's going to be revved higher than 7500 rpm.

    My suggestion for all out all motor performance is buy a GSR b18c1 engine, and use the 2 grand you save from the Type R's price to put in some CTR pistons, Skunk2 IM, and valvetrain work. This should net 200-210 at the wheels with a healthy bit of revving, and a good header, exhaust and intake. If you wanna spend about $1000 more than that, ditch the CTR pistons, have the block sleeved out by Golden Eagle to 84.5 MM, and get some nice custom Arias, or custom Wiseco pistons, and Eagle rods, and a LS crank for a 2.05ish Liter engine. YUMMY.

    Any money you have leftover should be put into a professional Port and Polish job, and combustion chamber work. Tom Payn at Payn Technologies does EXCELLENT head work, and is a friend of mine.

    Plus, NEVER skimp on tuning, that's your #1 bar to overcome. An s200 Hondata with or without the boost option is highly advised if you have a Hondata dealer/tuner in your area.

    That's my opinion and I'm sticking to it.
     
  11. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    84.5mm bore will get you to 1997cc... you'll need about an 85.5mm bore to get to 2.05L. :)

    I don't agree with you on the siamese sleeve design being weaker than the normal sleeves, but- I've participated in that argument enough.

    :lol:
     
  12. Slo86GT

    Slo86GT Super Moderator

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    DOH, my bad. I meant the Eagle STROKER crank, not the LS. ;) DOH!
     
  13. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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