Opinions on cams

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Thanks for the help rick. I used the section in my 94 GSR helms to troubleshoot the problem. After all the voltage tests and continuity tests, the helms manual points to the Ignition Control Module as the problem. I took the dizzy back to advance, there will be another one there in the morning for me to pickup.
 
CAFROG said:
Magana....you really think the pics express the cams being chewed up? I see some wear on them for sure but nothing looks terribly deep. If this is the case...then my CTR camshafts are tired and chewed up too....they have small surface scratches on the cam cap part of the camshafts too.

Or are you saying the shining parts is the coating gone? Mine aren't shiny like that at all.
Click to expand...

ok, If you can run your fingernail across the lobs without it being hung up, then your fine. If your fingernail gets caught on one of the scars then you need to have your cams gridded, If not you run the risk of chewing up your rocker arms.

Also if the cam journals have a mirror like finish....well thats not good, cams get a lot of their strength from the nitrate coating. Just like crankshafts are nitrate coated for strength. If you have a OEM crank turned you more than likely run into issues.
 
Magana559 said:
ok, If you can run your fingernail across the lobs without it being hung up, then your fine. If your fingernail gets caught on one of the scars then you need to have your cams gridded, If not you run the risk of chewing up your rocker arms.

Also if the cam journals have a mirror like finish....well thats not good, cams get a lot of their strength from the nitrate coating. Just like crankshafts are nitrate coated for strength. If you have a OEM crank turned you more than likely run into issues.
Click to expand...

I remember dragging my finger nail across the worn areas when I had them out. My nail did hang on some wear lines. I know these things are bad, I'm just curious if they could be to blame for my complete power loss. I always use assembly lube, but I can't speak for the person who built this motor. This head is ticking like a time bomb too. I've checked the LMA's, they're fine.
 
bakerderek0 said:
I remember dragging my finger nail across the worn areas when I had them out. My nail did hang on some wear lines. I know these things are bad, I'm just curious if they could be to blame for my complete power loss. I always use assembly lube, but I can't speak for the person who built this motor. This head is ticking like a time bomb too. I've checked the LMA's, they're fine.
Click to expand...

That shouldnt lead to power loss at all, but I would take them to a machine shop and see what they can do.

Check your valve lash see if its off(probably causing your ticking) if your valve lash is off that can cause power loss. When you re install the cams use Moly assembly lube.

Something is not right, Find out whats wrong and fix it.

BTW whats the mileage on those cams? They look like they have 200kmiles.
 
I proved that Advance gave me a bad Dizzy, but the new dizzy didn't fix my power loss. There is hardly any throttle response. If I tap the throttle, nothing happens. If I hold the throttle open, it takes about three seconds for there to be a significant Rpm increase. I took a video of me starting the car and attempting to back out of my garage. The best footage is of me starting the car, then turning the throttle by hand, you can see & hear the lack of throttle response.

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GOT IT!! It was the OBD2 Evap Purge Solenoid. I just decided to unplug it, the car started right up and is running strong.
 
ok, after driving it....it backs out the driveway fine, but shortly after driving the car, it starts to bog down. So I'm going to find a OBD1 Evap purge Solenoid so this thing should run right.
One of these little pieces:
 
glad to hear it was a bad dizzy but i didnt think it was because it was just picked up from the store. but like i said it happens sometimes. so you know what the problem was now?
 
CAFROG said:
??? I have a OBD2 Evap Purge Solenoid of a 97 Integra LS for my OBD1 B16A ???
Click to expand...

Excuse my earlier idea. I was just happy I had it running half way decent. I put a OBD1 Solenoid on, it started doing the same thing it was with the OBD2 Solenoid. Now, I have the solenoid unpluged and the vacuum line from the intake manifold capped off. It does run much better, but the my acceleration is pretty weak. VTEC pulls good, but starting on a hill is horrible, barely wants to move. So now I'm back on topic, I'll be checking the valve lash, to make sure it is in spec. Will post more pics of cams later.
 
Laugh if you want. I didn't know "check your valve lash" meant check your valve clearances. I checked my valve clearances last time I had the valve cover off. All clearances were within the 99' civic si helms manual's specs.
 
I really think my problem is the P72 ecu. From what I understand, it dumps alot more fuel and is making the engine bog down at low rpms. So my next move is towards a P30.
 
Not a good idea....no bogging with a P72...not to any extent of your problems.
 
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CAFROG said:
Not a good idea....no bogging with a P72...not to any extent of your problems.
Click to expand...
I keep reading about how this ecu is made for a b18, which has "two butterflies", so that is why my B16 is bogging down. If the ecu isn't the main problem, do you think it could be my fuel pressure regulator?
 
You never stated why you took your camshafts out......guessing it was the bogging?

Compression test??

I watched your video and for some stupid reason....I thought about you not being TDC between the camshafts and crank (the timing belt off a tooth??)
 
CAFROG said:
You never stated why you took your camshafts out......guessing it was the bogging?

Compression test??

I watched your video and for some stupid reason....I thought about you not being TDC between the camshafts and crank (the timing belt off a tooth??)
Click to expand...

I noticed the cams when I was changing the head gasket. I have not ran a compression test, but the engine does not smoke at all, so I ruled out low compression. I swear by the timing. I did it twice just to make sure it was perfect. I measured my #1 piston being at TDC by putting rachet extensions it the spark plug hole until I saw the extensions were at their peak, then I lined both cams straight up and put the belt on. I don't have a lower timing belt cover to reference TDC. That's why I used extensions. Maybe I'm doing it wrong?
 
I think you should be good to go on the timing the bottom to TDC with the extension (I've done it before....and yesterday lol) but did you make sure the cam gear side marks were lined up (3 o'clock and 9 o'clock) or the "Up" marks on the cam gears (at noon)?

No coolant loss? Leaks? And you are certain you are not burning oil? The head gasket thing got me thinking...what happened when the head gasket went? Did you get the motor like that or you know how this happened? Did you re-surface the head (or at least have it checked)?

And I have a JDM P30 if you want to buy it (although it will not look for the evap purge solenoid) but I am pretty sure you can run a B16 with a P72. Investigate it more and let me know :thumbsup:
 
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