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Overboosting....please help!!

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by importimage, Jul 3, 2003.

  1. importimage

    importimage Senior Member

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    Background: B20 Vtec Turbo with Hondata Stage 2 with boost
    Problem: I engage the throttle slowly and the is hardly any boost (That is obvious). But when I hammer it and it boosts up to around 4-5 psi. The car stutters and then I lay off the gas. Once it does this stuttering, I get a Check engine light 16 (Fuel Injectors) and code 43 (Fuel Supply System). I just shut off the car and restart it then drive is slowly home. I have checked all the pipes and they are all tightly connected. I have also checked all the vacume lines and they seem all good. Do you think it could be that the blow off valve is not adjusted correctly???

    I recently had my injectrors cleaned. I used a noid light to each injector and they checked out ok. My fuel pump is coming on and the pressure is all good. I had the main relay re-soldered to rid of possible dry joints. I just changed my O2 sensor.

    Please help!!!
     
  2. SolReaver

    SolReaver Senior Member

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    Ok..have you tuned the hondata?

    What injectors are they?

    How much boost is your wastegate spring set for?

    Is it a stock fpr?

    The BOV could not be adjusted properly, but that wouldnt cause you to pull the cel's....worry about getting your motor to run right before the bov :)
     
  3. importimage

    importimage Senior Member

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    Hondata is tuned....but I have added a JG Edelbrock intake manifold since.....could this maybe throw everything off because of the much higher air flow now????

    I am using RC 550 Injectors. I just had them cleaned and they are now to stock flow spec and spray.

    I am using the turbonetics wastegate and am using the apexi AVC-R. The boost is set at 10 psi boost!!

    I am using the B&M fuel pressure regulator.....maybe it is needed to be set to a different spot because of the JG intake manifold demanding more fuel. I am getting the fuel pressure tested tomorrow. I will post my readings to you.

    I did in the past frig around with the BOV screw. Should it be setr so that once my boost gauge gets out of vacume and is at 0 on the boost gauge that the turbo starts to make the whinning sound????

    Please continue to help me!!
     
  4. SFPracing

    SFPracing Senior Member

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    Sounds to me like the boost cut option in your Hondata might be set and you're tapping the threshold for it to shut the car down on ya. Try lowering the boost a bit if you can if you can't have your chip checked. If you have the .bin file you could email it to me and I can check it for ya.
     
  5. SolReaver

    SolReaver Senior Member

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    i wonder what those fuel settings are....

    the bov should be set to the point where it doesnt leak boost and where it holds shut at idle..when you back off the throttle under boost it should make a nice whooosh sound...not a choppy sound

    if its all choppy sounding then you have the spring set too hard and if it leaks boost prematurely then its too soft
     
  6. SFPracing

    SFPracing Senior Member

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    The BOV being not adjusted properly should have no bearing. All you'll do is get compressor surge (choppy sound) if it's to tight. If it's to loose you might have a boost leak but that wouldn't account for your car cutting out and getting CE lights.
     
  7. importimage

    importimage Senior Member

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    i do not have the bin file unfortunately. I do know that my fuel curve was mint. We tuned out all the bugs. The guy who I know who tuned my car lives 500 miles away from me. When my car was on the dyno it was all good.

    My car is not really cutting out. It is really farting once I really want to hammer on it.

    I took my fuel pump cover off today and found that the fuel feed hose was kinked pretty bad.....maybe that is why I was getting these fuel codes. What do you think is really causing these codes??

    Maybe my JG intake manifold has really thrown off my fuel curve becuase of such a greater demand for fuel now.

    I have had the hazard fuse and battery negative off many times since my last dyno test....perhaps the APexi AVC-R boost controller has set back to default setting. I know it is gay that I know nothing about the boost controller, but my tuner said don't frigg with it....leave it alone!!!

    I am gonna play around with the BOV later today.

    Any other suggestions on any of this would be awesome!!!
     
  8. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    JG vs stock IM = much different air patterns. DEF! get it re-tuned.
     
  9. importimage

    importimage Senior Member

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    Do you think I was throwing the codes because of the new JG Intake Manifold?
     
  10. SFPracing

    SFPracing Senior Member

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    Honestly I don't think the intake manifold is gonna make that much of a difference. Therefore I also don't think it's causing your codes.
     
  11. SolReaver

    SolReaver Senior Member

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    :withstupid:
     
  12. importimage

    importimage Senior Member

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    Solreaver,

    Do you think that this could be causing my codes to be thrown???
     
  13. SFPracing

    SFPracing Senior Member

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    SolReaver why do you have to be an ignorant dickhead? You are obviously the stupid one if you think hanging an intake manifold is gonna make you suddenly not have enough injector to make the car run properly. Obviously he has a fuel issue where his injectors are shutting down due to either lack of fuel, sensor malfunction (map, tps, etc..) or his Hondata turning them off as a safety precaution because there is a problem. By your guys theory the amount of additional air being injested due to the bigger intake is making this happen. Well how come anyone else in creation can go from say 5psi to 10psi to 15psi with a tuned car doesn't do this? Your MAP sensor accomidates for increased airflow and the hondata adds fuel accordingly. You're saying more air injestion is causing it due to his "bigger" intake but by increasing boost pressure in any other application doesn't do it. Increasing boost pressure = injesting more air. All his Edelbrock intake is gonna do is change the initial throttle response and the high end power output aka power curve. Sure it decreases airflow restriction but it's not like he just threw 100 more cfm to it. His intake ports and valve opens, valve lift and duration have not changed. You can only put in what you can fit in by either increasing the ports, valve size, lift duration or increasing boost pressure. The theory is just full of holes. Not very well thought out but I'm the stupid one.
     
  14. Mech

    Mech Banned

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    I'm pretty sure that he wasn't cracking on you but that's just me, he was agreing with you.
     
  15. hcivic.com

    hcivic.com Senior Member

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    what about all your vac lines did they get reconected properly?
    did you damage you map iat ect.
     
  16. mattcalica

    mattcalica Senior Member

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    that kinked fuel line could definitely be the culprit...i dont think that the jg would change the airflow that much, to where it would throw codes. so just check your entire fuel system.
     
  17. SolReaver

    SolReaver Senior Member

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    umm...hondaswap faq--

    Q. What does the "im with stupid" smiley mean?

    A. It means, yeah i agree with you dude.

    lol
     
  18. BigJ

    BigJ I'm just about that action Boss. VIP

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    :lol: I bet he wants his 5 minutes of typing back.
     
  19. SolReaver

    SolReaver Senior Member

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    nope, i dont see why the jg mani would cause there to be a fuel code thrown..unless on the jg mani there isnt a certain port for a sensor, which would leave the stock sensor hanging....


    and tripledigit ek4, ya i know that the bov would not cause a code to be thrown, i was trying to tell him that this is the way a bov should sound, and only worry about after you get your motor running right :)
     
  20. importimage

    importimage Senior Member

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    I am sure that my TPS is ok....it read the correct voltage when I did the check

    I am sure that my MAP sensor is ok.....I do not have the MAP sensor code come up.

    I do not know about the intake air temp (IAT) sensor on the intake manifold. How do I know if it is good or not???? Maybe this is causing my lumpy idle? I do have a new IAC Valve on its way.

    I am going to get my car re-tuned because of this massive dilema I am having. I will keep in touch on here!!!

    <_<
     
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