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OVERHEATING with new Turbo setup

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by hybrid89, Jul 23, 2004.

  1. hybrid89

    hybrid89 thistownsucks...

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    Installed new Turbo GSR setup in my buddy's hatch. everything runs great and its fast. Problem is overheating. We used a high CFM slim fan that we needed anyway to clear the compressor. It pulls some serious air, but still having problems overheating. Seems to happen more when the car is sitting (at a light for example). Its a rev hard kit and the IC pretty much blocks the entire radiator. Any suggestions (aluminum radiator, bigger radiator, another fan, oil cooler?) let me know what you guys have experienced .

    matt
     
  2. hybrid89

    hybrid89 thistownsucks...

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    bump!
     
  3. NoJokE

    NoJokE Senior Member

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    Try an aluminum radiator, changing your thermostat(since its cheap and it cant hurt to change it), if it still happens then you could try a Full size Integra radiator.
     
  4. liquid00meth

    liquid00meth Senior Member

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    Oil cooler would most definitley help, and you could also try a high pressure radiator cap (like the Spoon unit) to help things out. It seems obvious to me but check the entire coolant system and make sure it is actually flowing also. IE do a heavy coolant system flush to make sure it is not clogged.
     
  5. hybrid89

    hybrid89 thistownsucks...

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    the entire system has been gone through to the best of my knowledge. I think were going to need either and aluminum rad. or bigger(integra) plus and oil cooler.

    matt
     
  6. breed

    breed Senior Member

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    go with an integra radiator. I had the same problem with my hatch and that's what I needed.
     
  7. 9sech22civic

    9sech22civic Senior Member

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    try drilling a small hole in the thermostat, and instead of using antifreeze, use distilled water and water wetter, and last thing you can do is to thermo wrap your headers and down pipe. which front bumper you using? the bigger the opening the better. try all these i bet this will help with your problem. good luck.
     
  8. Johnnylawless

    Johnnylawless Senior Member

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    Question, does the fan have a "cowling" ? or does it sit a inch away from the radiator. if it does you may have to find one that goes right up to the radiator as it will pull too much air from around the radiator. I just had this problem after installing a fluidyne 1/2 radiator (civic) with the flat fan. I ended up putting my stock fan on the fluidyne and now I have to really push it to get it to go up past 1/2 way.
     
  9. Seany-izzle

    Seany-izzle New Member

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    you can wire the fan to always be running, along with a aluminium radiator will help.
     
  10. 9sech22civic

    9sech22civic Senior Member

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    if the fan is always running, can be good but can also be bad, you want a temp between 170-185 for good efficient running tuned motor, cold is not always good, but neither is too hot either, like 210 and up.
     
  11. hybrid89

    hybrid89 thistownsucks...

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    the slim fan is mounted right up against the radiator. really has no cowling since it is only 1.25" thick. I like the idea od water wetter and thermo wrap. any other suggestions. I have a couple different ideas now, I'm just trying to fing the most effecient one

    matt
     
  12. [Freemantle]

    [Freemantle] Senior Member

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    If you asked this question on HMT, you'd probably hear somthing like....



    "Heatshield"

    They have a point.
     
  13. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    screw teg radiators. adds wieght, and it gets hot from being right by the turbo.

    if you're having problems overheating, there's 343423 other problems besides the radiator.

    #1- a/f
    it may sound stupid, but if you are running lean, you're running your car stupid hot in the combustion process.
    have you been to the dyno yet?

    #2- coolant/water mix ratio.
    water cools better than coolant. you should run a 65/35 water to coolant ratio. IMO, water wetter is a temp hack job at best.

    #3- thermo wrap is retarded, makes everythign a mess, and is really for keeping the exahust hot for better spooling than keeping the bay cool.

    #4- a thermostat is not needed. all it does is kick on the fan sooner. 180 vs 165 degrees is not much of a difference, and frankly, 165 is too cool for the motor's normal operating temp. there is 0 reason why you should have to go lower to maintain a normal running motor.

    #5- what radiator do you have? i'm assuming stock civic. there are plenty of 9 sec cars running a stock EG civic half and and stock fan, so once again, i must say, that there are other issues here. Or, the rad is juk and needs to be replaced anyway. In that case, I recommend a PWR. they are superiour to fluidyne and C&R in that they have side bolters that will support the rad in the event of a headgasket blow out, are cheaper, and offer the same if not better cooling.
     
  14. 9sech22civic

    9sech22civic Senior Member

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    sorry pissed off sol, but i have to dissagree on #2 and 3. We both already know that water has a higher BTU. Therefor it is the prefered over antifreeze. I really like the redline water wetter my temps run 10 degree's cooler, and the thermo wrap if done correctly and neatly works great too.
     
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