Overkill or being safe?

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Crix

Senior Member
This is what I got so far. I have the GE Girdle Kit to help the bearings out somewhat and suppose to prevent crankwalk? I dont know I just got it to be safe. Also went with the GE block guard. But I haven't ordered that yet. I want to get some more opnions. I think ive spent like 2K on the block alone already and its not even assembled yet.

Everything new.
-pr3 .25 pistons,rings,wrist pins. $200.00 from Honda (my discount)
-Bearings $200.00 from Acura dealership
-Machine work (Decked,Bored&Honed,Hot tanked,Cleaned and pretty much looks like brand new bottom end) $415.00
-Shotpeened the ls rods and had them press the b16 pistons on the ls rods since they fit without shaving. $134.00 (don't remember exscact price)
-Getting the crank micropolished tommorw morning $115.00
-Water pump/oil pump (ITR) $250.00 for both (my discount)
-Timing belt(ITR) $46.00 (discount again)
-GE Girdle Kit $420.00
-I went ahead and replaced the ls tensioner (never know) $free from a freind
-SS oil pan. $320.00
-Bolts and nuts/misc gaskets like oil pan gasket, oil pan bots/nuts,water pump gasket etc... $est. $60.00 brand new from dealership
-GE lsvtec conversion kit (on order) $280.00
-Brand new Knock sensor from honda $175.00 no discount there wasnt working @ H.
-ARP head studs $120.00.

Thats about it for the block. Iam starting to discourge myself now that I just figured out how much ive spended and still have to go. HAHAH. :blink: :)

I already have the b16 head and gsr tranny that are both in great shape. :worthy:

The head work iam looking at another 1500.00 going with a portflow or ferra again vavletrain with itr intake cam. But iam thinking of going with some crazier cams just go for it. ;) And since i will have the setup for it already. Wish me good luck this is only first B series motor ive built myself. But have some really good knowledgeable honda mechanics and my work helping me on the way. :) Thanks for your time. B)
 
If you're spending that much money refreshing your block, I would recommend getting some nice forged high compression pistons to replace the PR3s you got from the dealer. Lower mass, higher compression, tougher material- it'll all help to make more power and make your engine last longer.
 
rod bolts make SURE you get ARP rod bolts if you have intentions of revving this beast... But better safe then sorry... Do it right the first time so nothing fucks up and you do it 2-3 times more! Also for cams I'd suggest blox tuner type B cams I hear good things about them and you can get them for 450shipped from an-r.com.. But hang in there your almost done! Just the head and engine management!
 
Originally posted by Calesta+Dec 28 2004, 11:45 PM-->
If you're spending that much money refreshing your block, I would recommend getting some nice forged high compression pistons to replace the PR3s you got from the dealer. Lower mass, higher compression, tougher material- it'll all help to make more power and make your engine last longer.
[post=438484]Quoted post[/post]​
I had a set of 12.5 endyns but I really didn't know to much about using aftermarket pistons. Plus I would have to do alot more measuring and claying the motor. All stuff I don't plan on wanting to learn.


99SiRidinLow
@Dec 29 2004, 03:06 AM
rod bolts make SURE you get ARP rod bolts if you have intentions of revving this beast... But better safe then sorry... Do it right the first time so nothing fucks up and you do it 2-3 times more! Also for cams I'd suggest blox tuner type B cams I hear good things about them and you can get them for 450shipped from an-r.com.. But hang in there your almost done! Just the head and engine management!
[post=438540]Quoted post[/post]​

Engine management is going to be difficult cause I have no idea what iam doing. I read some things about using a wideband o2 and setting it to 14.1. But I think what my plans are is getting this guy in flordia to come to my house and help me on this. I don't think starting a motor guessing on its air/fuel mix would be wise? I don't really know.
 
i would suggest hondata or chrome, aem, anything man even a vafc with larger injectors is better than nothing
 
i had the same set up and broke the ring landings (lean) so invest some cash i would just get larger injectors and a vafc until i could get the hondata
 
Originally posted by Crix+Dec 29 2004, 08:37 AM-->
I had a set of 12.5 endyns but I really didn't know to much about using aftermarket pistons. Plus I would have to do alot more measuring and claying the motor. All stuff I don't plan on wanting to learn.
[post=438584]Quoted post[/post]​

Ok, I gotcha. OEM PR3 pistons will still give you a nice compression ratio and make good power- they just won't be as powerful as a set of higher compression lower mass forged pistons. You'll be fine.

integraslut78
@Dec 29 2004, 11:01 AM
Expensive and good = AEM.
[post=438630]Quoted post[/post]​


I'd have to disagree with you there. Stay with Hondata.
 
Well just got back from engine lab. I went ahead and had the rotating assembly balanced. It was 381.51 and to micropolish the crank is 115.60. Only thing though that i just notice is it says grind crankshaft!? :lol: I dont want that just a once over and clean it up. Is there a term for that? I said micropolish. Iam calling him once i get back from running some arons.

He showed me the engine balance machine and that machine is HUGE! I guess it balanced it to or within 5grams. I might have heard him wrong but its a very nice machine.

I already plan on going with hondata. But what iam still learning is what to do when you start up the motor for the first time. I know that luberication is the key and priming the motor etc.. but what about the first start up running the motor on a non set default or factory setting acording to the pr3? Iam going with Saturated 310cc RC obd0 injectors. Sounds about right for what the engine will put down.
 
Make sure it isn't warped. Be extra extra sure. In fact, check it 2 or 3 times to make sure it isn't warped.

There's no such thing as being too cautious.
 
If I were you I'd use crome... But any how... The way you tune is you get a base map for your engine.. Once you get the car runnin on the base map you use the wideban and a dyno (or street) and start making your changes to your base map (fuel and your timing and all that good stuff) But I would suggest crome.. Even though there might not be a bunch of people around your area who could tune it.. Its cheap and a very nice tuning tool... I just downloaded it last night looks pretty good.
 
Engine Lab of Tampa is doing all the machine work and checks and double checks. Dave knows his stuff and knows what he is looking at. He's been asking the right questions to me for what iam using the motor for. This is a pretty popular place for honda guys so I feel pretty confeident that iam getting everything done right. :)
 
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