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P13 ecu not allowing the fuel pump to work.

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> BA-BB /CA-CD' started by Nickg4c, Oct 30, 2006.

  1. Nickg4c

    Nickg4c Member

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    Got the H22A4 in my 97 Accord Running today for the first time, the only problem is that the p13 ecu wouldnt run the fuel pump. It seemed to have some pressure because when we unhooked the line at the fuel rail there was just a bit of pressure. As soon as I hooked up the old accord ecu it started right up though and we had plenty of fuel pressure. I guess I need to know what pin runs the fuel pump so I can see if its hooked up properly.

    The car does have an OBDII to OBDI conversion harness and I should note that when going to switch pin a6 with a11 like I was told there was nothing going into a11, so I made a new pin into a11 and cut the wire into a6 and put it into the new a11. So basically nothing runs into a6 and I think thats something for egr or the heater.

    Thanks for any help.
     
  2. Nickg4c

    Nickg4c Member

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    Any help here, What would make the ecu not turn on the fuel pump?
     
  3. AHHVTEC

    AHHVTEC Well-Known Member VIP

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    bad ecu-- bad fuel pump-- bad main relay --or ecu not getting power
     
  4. Nickg4c

    Nickg4c Member

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    The only one of those that could be a possibility is a bad ecu, I ran the car off the other ecu so we should be able to rule out the fuel pump, relay,and getting power.

    Is it possible that the conversion harness I have wasn't made right? I found on here that obd1 pin a7 and a8 are for the fuel pump but on my conversion harness there is only a pin going into a7 not a8.

    Thanks for the help
     
  5. Nickg4c

    Nickg4c Member

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    Well it turns out it was the conversion harness, dont know why but it wasnt made right. I put in another one and it fired right up.

    Couple questions though.
    1. Does anyone have a laser pointer style thermometer that they can check the temp on their exhaust manifold. Mine shows to be about 400 degrees just idling, and I thought that was too high.

    2. Second, once the car is warmed up the idle drops down to about 600 or so and a few times it killed the engine, any idea what could cause this?

    So far no check engine light, the timing was dead on, and the spark plugged showed if anything to be slightly rich.
    Thanks
     
  6. TeamUrbanChaos

    TeamUrbanChaos Certified H22 Super-tech

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  7. Nickg4c

    Nickg4c Member

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    Idle still not right

    Update on my engine. The idle has changed a little, now it will idle perfect untill the car warms up, but then it will slowly start to rev up jumping about 100 rpms at a time untill it hits 1250 or so and drop back to 850. It just repeats that cycle. A mechanic I know told me that it was an air bubble that affects the aic valve, but I dont seem to think its that cause it should work its way out.

    Still no check engine lights but I have only driven it 2 miles because theres no front end on it yet.

    Any help is greatly appreciated because I've run out of ideas.
     
  8. alterdcreations

    alterdcreations Member

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    pull the thermal valve from under the throttle body(it has coolant line runing to it). it is bolted to the bottom of the throttle body.
    their is two bolts on one side and two screws on another side. take apart the side with the bolts and screw in the plastic screw inside and bolt it back togeather.
    have fun:D
     
  9. Nickg4c

    Nickg4c Member

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    That's what I thought the solution was as well, but I already screwed it all the way in and it doesn't help. I think that thing is the Fast Idle Air valve and only idles the car when it is cold.

    Thanks anyway though.
     
  10. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    400 is high for an exhaust manifold....my thermometer goes off the chart and just gives me === when i point it at my exhaust. so im confused a bit.

    also, a good test to see if the IACV is your culprit with the idle. unplug the tps. a lot of times that will disable the iacv, causing the idle to even out. of course, do not drive like this because it will potentially damage your engine. if it does even out, id recommend taking off the iacv, cleaning the screen with some brake cleaner and then doing a flush and fill on your coolant.

    i wouldnt argue with your mechanic though...there is a reason he works on cars for a living...cause he knows what hes doing. rarely do i argue with actual mechanics (dealership technicians/mom-n-pop mechanics). theyve usually been around the block enough to know whats going on.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2006
  11. Nickg4c

    Nickg4c Member

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    Thanks, I'll definitely try unplugging the tps to see if that works. It has brand new coolant in it, so I shouldn’t need to do a flush with that though. As far as the mechanic I was talking about he thinks he knows everything but we've seen him wrong on a lot of stuff. He does know stuff about Honda, so I at least wanted to check his opinion with everyone here.
     
  12. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    well if it has brand new coolant (meaning it was just flushed when the problem started). then you might have an air bubble like he suggested. USUALLY it causes it to over heat as well, but air bubbles dont always make your car over heat.
     
  13. Nickg4c

    Nickg4c Member

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    Temp gauge shows it to not be overheating and it took forever for it to even open the thermostat on the car( I also checked it with the thermometer). The only reason I don't think its an air bubble is because when we first started the car it was off the accord ecu and it idled like crap untill it got warmed up, then it idled great. Now its just the opposite it idles great before it gets warmed up.
     
  14. Nickg4c

    Nickg4c Member

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    Well after unplugging the tps it did even out the idle, so I took the aic valve off the front of the intake, cleaned it out and put it back on. Didn't help a bit, so tommorow I'll probably flush the coolant on it or see if I can get rid of an air bubble if I have one.
     
  15. xeroracing

    xeroracing New Member

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    I know im jumping in after you already talked about switching out the conversion harness, but one thing to do is double check all the wires in the conversion and make sure they are all setup correctly. I have the exact list of converting the wires for your car. Only reason I say this is i just but a H22a into my 96 accord and ran into some problems. Turned out alot of things were switched, or not there.... My tdc and ckp were swapped. Make things even better 3 of the 4 injectors firing at wrong times. I dont know just something to think about and check.
     
  16. Nickg4c

    Nickg4c Member

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    Well, I hate bringing up my thread again, but my idle still surges once the car is warmed up.

    Basically I've completely ruled out any air bubbles(used special vacuum tool from the mechanic shop next to us and flushed and filled the coolant).

    I've already screwed the plastic screw down in the thermal valve under the TB. That supposed to go down tight right?

    Cleaned out the aic valve.

    I hooked the old accord ecu up to see if that made a difference, and it got alot worse. The car reved longer and cycled much faster.

    By the way unhooking the tps evens the idle.
     
  17. olddude

    olddude Junior Member

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    Sounds like the IACV and idle adjustment.If the idle is too high , it shuts down , and then cycles up down.
    Try unhooking it and see what happens to the idle . Adjust the idle with it disconnected (screw at the top of Throttle body ) to about 800 and then shut off motor and hook up IACV again. Reset computer and try .
    I had the same problem when I switched IM's.
     
  18. Nickg4c

    Nickg4c Member

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    Sounds good to me, I thought about doing that awhile back and never got around to it, and I think the service connector has to be jumped to do this. I'll give it a try tommorow and let you know. Thanks.
     
  19. Nickg4c

    Nickg4c Member

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    Well nothings changed, unplugging the tps always makes it stop. Unplugging the iac doesnt really change it much. I've tried adjusting the tps sensor to no avail. I've tried every combination of idle adjustments. Its almost like the slow creep up and quick fall of the idle disables any adjustments done to the idle until it hits about 1.5k rpms. I'm clueless as to what the problem is. If I set the idle screw high and start the car with it reving at about 2k and slowly bring it down sometimes it will stay at 800 or so and be fine, but once you shut the car off and start it again it starts up again. Hopefully someone has an idea that will fix this thing.
     
  20. AHHVTEC

    AHHVTEC Well-Known Member VIP

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    mabe clean the screens in the sensors on the intake manifold
     
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