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P54 ECU - Difference between auto & m/t version?

Discussion in 'ECU's, Electronics, and Tuning' started by CQB18B, Sep 30, 2016.

  1. dilbeckskate

    dilbeckskate infamous

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    Yes comparing stop maps is pissing in the wind, to make most power and engine run best you need to socket the ecu and get it tuned professionally, and difference mainly in usdm vs jdm motors is usually in the cams
     
  2. CQB18B

    CQB18B New Member

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    I've only had it in for a couple days so no longer term observations yet. It seems to be running pretty much the same as it was. Chipping and tuning $s are in the future though
     
  3. dilbeckskate

    dilbeckskate infamous

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    You arent going to notice a difference between stockers end of discussion
     
  4. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    Thank you for acknowledging and appreciating our knoweldge/feedback.

    In my opinion....Stock ECU unless you have aggressive cams (definitely must be above stage 1 cams) or forced induction.

    Header, intake and 2.5" mandrel bent exhaust will get you around 25hp to the crank.....so 18-20whp gain for $500-1100 (depending on brands and if they're new or used). Or (at least) triple that amount and run turbo to get 200-225whp total and have a fun handful to drive.

    A chip and dyno tune will add more if you have those bolt ons. How much more after bolt ons? 10-25whp is my guess. You could get close to 150whp with bolt ons, socketed ECU and dyno tune. Socketed/chipped ECU and dyno tune....probably $500-600.
     
    dilbeckskate likes this.
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