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Paint job progression UPDATE (almost done)

Discussion in 'Auto Multi-Media' started by asmallsol, Aug 5, 2005.

  1. asmallsol

    asmallsol Super Moderator

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    Well here is the very first thing wrong with my car minus the nasty honda rot....

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    The pervious owner thought it would be cool to "shave" the side molding by sticking bondo in their. Yea bad idea, because it looked like shit, would rub on the front fende when you open the door, ect. So....

    [​IMG]

    I grinded all that shit out.

    So this is how it looked (minus these wheels) before it went into my make-shit paint booth...
    [​IMG]

    So I sanded and sanded, and masked and masked, to get it ready for surface primer (sorry, couldn't find my camera during that stage, thus no pics)

    Here is kinda a pic of some of the masking...

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    Safety first...

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    Primer time....

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    Since these pics (earlier this morning) I have put 2 more coats of primer on them, and right now I am about to go out and sand the whole thing down smooth to get ready for the primer sealer. After that, it will be time for paint. Since I am a cheap muther fucker going to college, I couldn't afford much so, the entire paint system that I am using is Duplicolor paint. It is all real paint (as in non spray can, comes in gallons, and you have to do all the reducing and all that) and as I said in another post, they have
    6 colors to chose from, including Revin Red, Dark blue matalic, Silver Mist Matalic, Lighter blue (called like blue ocean or something like that) Fleet White, and maybe black? Paint is 40-50 a gallon@murray's autoparts/pepboys/autozone vs the 250 for championship white at sherwin williams. Primer and reducers are all really cheap too. All paint materials cost me around 120, however, found i need to buy more reducer since I have to use that to clean my gun.

    I chose to go with fleet white since white is the best color to hide imperfections in painting skills, body quality, ect.

    Anyways, more pics to come.
     
  2. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    Awesome. How much is this costing you to do? I just might go for it on the truck.
     
  3. asmallsol

    asmallsol Super Moderator

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    I would probally say under 200 with all the materials minus the gun, gasmask and compressor (that stuff -the mask is my freind's who is helping me paint, since he painted his restored Triumph TR6 with this exact same paint line)

    For the plastic tarps, it is 10x25x2rolls per pack for 15 a peice. I ended up buying 2 of those things. 2 of the tarps went for the front and 2 sides, another one for the celing and the entrance to the garage, and the final one for the windows, engine bay (I have a CF hood and decided not to paint it) and under body. Tape is actually pretty expensive at like $8 a roll or something like that. I am using the blue painters tape as well as the hard to stick surfaces green making tape, also from 3M. All the sand paper starts to add up, but that is with any paint job. I preped the old paint with 220 grit, and it calls for 320 grit on the surface primer. The Sealer is a non sanding stuff, then probally 1200-1500 wetsand for the top coat. At murry's, my total for all the chemicals (Paint thinner, Surface primer and Specialty reducer, Sealer primer and Asitone, and paint and reducer) came out to around 120 for all of that.
     
  4. scottp11

    scottp11 The Seniorest Member....

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    Looking good so far, post more pic's!!!
     
  5. allbottledup

    allbottledup Senior Member

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    great start cant wait to see it finished
     
  6. asmallsol

    asmallsol Super Moderator

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    I have been out in the garage for about an hour and a half now sanding the primer. Man does that stuff sand smooth. As the car sits in the pictures, it was as rough as sand paper, and it was EXTEMELY hard to get dust off the panels. With almost no force and maybe one or two passes, rubbing the grey primer makes it turn white and extremly smooth. Taking pictures won't really show much since I am not that tallented of a photographer, and it will end up looking pretty much like the above pics
     
  7. ScrapinSi

    ScrapinSi Senior Member

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    Block sanding or wet sanding the primer?
     
  8. asmallsol

    asmallsol Super Moderator

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    I tryed wet sanding on one of my ealier coats on one little area. It didn't work at all. It just clogged the hell out of the paper in one stroke. Dry sanding worked SO much better. Its going to make getting ready for the sealer a lot harder since it makes the area alot dustier, but I am going to put wheels on the car, roll it out, and clean it all off outside. I am also going to retape all my masking before I do the sealer. Its already cut to size, so it will be a hell of alot easier. Just have to clean them all up and reapply.
     
  9. ScrapinSi

    ScrapinSi Senior Member

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    Just a trick... Wash the car a bunch of times... Do some sanding, then just take some water & rags, and hose the car down... Gets that top layer off... helps alot..

    And if the paper is clogging wet... You might not be letting the paper soak long enough... What grit are you using too?
     
  10. driver1

    driver1 Senior Member

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    if anyting the paper should def clog more when dry sanding.....the water ussually will sperate the primer from itself enough to keep it from being able to clog up. otherwise a good bit of advice would be to take the car out of the garage to do all your sanding...or else clean the garage allback out when finished. i wouldnt even bother with a sealer because youve primed the whole car, and to be honest its almost completely unnecesarry. also be sure to sand that primer with 400 grit or finer for final sanding before paint. also the best thing i can tell to do is wet the shit out of the floor in the garage before you paint and dont do anything to cause any dust for atleat an hr before you paint. good luck with it and let me know if u have any questions
     
  11. 92dxhatch

    92dxhatch Senior Member

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    looking good dude, keep us posted.
     
  12. vtecsir1

    vtecsir1 Senior Member

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    are you filling dents? if so what are you using to fill them with?
     
  13. phyregod

    phyregod !!YTINASNI

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    Yeah, I was wondering about the fender cancer too.. Are you fixing that? What is your approach?

    Can't wait for more pics!
     
  14. asmallsol

    asmallsol Super Moderator

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    well I am 97% finished. I sanded (too much lol) and buffed everything on the car except for the front bumper. Turned out really nice. In a few places, I sanded too deep, probally would have been better if I would have more layers of primer on and sanded that down 100% smooth. However, it looks 3048304830948x better. If I had more time I would fix it, but I am moving to college in 4 days, so thats a no can do. After I was finished sanding, I was bumbed on how dull it looked, but after doing some reading, I found that the shine normally doesn't come out until you polish it. So I bought an orbitor buffer and had at it. Turned out GREAT. The car is extremely smooth and even has enough shine that it will reflect a cell phone's background at night to the point that you can read the text on the screen. It doesn't do it as good as my CF hood, but what ever.

    Part of the reason why I traded my sol for the Hatch was I wanted a roof rack, and the sol just can't do it. So I have been ebaying around and found basicly all the parts I needed including parts for 2 bike trays and a 6 pairs of ski holder for around 350. If I would have went and bought it from my local bike shop or REI, it would have cost around 650. It finally showed up today, so I installed it and took a few pics....


    [​IMG]
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    Now here are the wheels...
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    And my bike...
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    For the rack, I need to buy the fairing. The thing whistles like crazy at 30mph and on with the sunroof open, so I will be buying the fairing ASAP.

    As for the missing side moldings (note holes are still there) I am waiting on my JDM thin moldings to show up. I hate going the "JDM route" however, I went to a few junk yards and they all said they would not sell me just the side moldings because it would screw the door up and they wouldn't be able to sell it. They offered to sell me the full door, however, I passed. Next route, Hondaautomotiveparts.com. At LEAST 70 a side. Next, JDM route. OEM JDM honda's were 140 if I shoped around. However, passwordjdm.com decided to manufactor their own replicas because finding them over in japan was getting harder and harder making the prices become really expensive. So I ended up going with the Passwordjdm.com ones for 100+shipping. They should be showing up here thursday.
     
  15. Battle Pope

    Battle Pope New Member

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    Not too goddamn bad for a quick and dirty spray job. props!
     
  16. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    damn, you shoulda made a post. i got a thule rack in my shed with 2 bike trays that i haven't used since 96....

    i like it-- but you gotta lose that red lettering on the wheels... kills the look IMO. too "jdm" for me
     
  17. civicious

    civicious FüK-VTEC VIP

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    The lettering is orange...lol
     
  18. pissedoffsol

    pissedoffsol RETIRED

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    <-- color blind.

    leave me alone
     
  19. CiViC_SOHC

    CiViC_SOHC Senior Member

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    no I think just blind :p anyways ya ditch the orange lettering man...you should of dismounted the tires cuase you can see a little orange around the inside of the rim but other then that clean ride man...you kinda make me wanna do my own paint I was going to anyways but hey how did you cure that nasty honda rot? mine is really horrible...
     
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