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yea my friend was trying to take it off with an impact drill and that didnt do any good i told him use a bar breaker but NOOO " HE KNOWS WHAT HE DOING" lol
 
Haha well I hope you smacked him around a bit because that could prove to be a real pain in the ass to fix!
 
Matts96HB said:
:)

Rebuild the bottom end with forged pistons and rods, new OEM seals, bearings, etc. to be sure that you won't encounter problems down the road. After you do this, you'll have a bottom end that can support 350whp, that I can say for sure.

There is no set HP for any set of mods. The power you make is VERY dependent upon the tune, and your setup. 10psi on a small turbo is a very different scenario than 10psi on a very large turbo.
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what piston do you recommend i see that you have a build thread what so i would like your advice on this?
 
also should i keep the b18 head or should i do an ls vtec im only looking to get 200-250 whp nothing too big yes im throwing tubro in after the motor is good
 
I've used JE pistons and never had an issue. I'd recommend those, along with some Eagle rods.

As far as the cylinder head is concerned, you can make 200-250whp with an LS head. If you decide to go any higher than that, I'd recommend a VTEC head. They flow much better than LS cylinder heads.
 
alright so some JE pistons 81mm and some Eagle rods what about crank? and what should i do to the block when i bring it to the machine shop sorry also im not trying to be spoon fed but could you link me to the ones you bought im looking i found these

altough they are ebay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/JE-Pistons-...29017?item=390326929017&vxp=mtr#ht_4074wt_952

they are JE brand or could you link me to the site you bought your rods and pistons
 
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You can leave the crank stock, just have the machine shop take a look at it when you take the block in. Have the machine shop clean (hot tank) the block up and inspect it for any damage, cracks, etc.
I bought mine on ebay as well. That looks almost exactly like the auction I bought from, except I bought Eagle rods.
 
alright thanks i will be buying those ones you suggested called a machine shop gunna charge me

50 - to take off 3 stipped bolts
70 - hot tank
150 - hone (honestly i don't know what that is or if i even need it lol)
 
A hone is to clean up the cylinder walls. It basically "scuffs" the cylinder walls to help seat the new rings in. If this is your first time assembling a bottom end I'd also recommend having them do that because it can be quite difficult for a rookie.
 
ok cool so ill get the bolts off and get it honed and hot tanked
 
would i need to do anything else to the block or the crank balance it out or anything while i have it at the shop? also should i have the shop put in my pistons rods etc im pretty sure i can do it myself im just wondering if theres something to do other then putting it together machine wise
 
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You can have them balance the rotating assembly, and I'd recommend doing that. Take the clutch and flywheel that you're going to be using with you when you take everything in.

I'd have the machine shop put the bottom end together. These engines are very picky when it comes to bearing clearances and it can be frustrating to get it right (or wrong) if it is your first rodeo.
 
alright thats what ill do just to move the process quicker i hope they dont charge so much tho :-(
 
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