Perfect engine for 95 CIVIC DX?

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so your saying I pretty much have to soder to trick the ECU to run VTEC? but if i keep my engine parts (bolts,clips,harness?...etc.) i CAN pull it off? oh and wats a onboard diognostic? and why is there more than 1? is that a place i go for tuning or something? so if i keep my harness (idkwhat that is) in their i can use a JDM engine ey? but il probably get fucked on the sawdering part if i get someone inexperienced. so ODB1 GSR would be ideal huh? whats a LSD? (Iknow too many questions right)
 
seriously... just get a gsr swap. a built turboed single cam can make power, but for a noob its not the best plan.
i dont think id like turbo in their. sure its power but doesnt it halve the engine life? i mean i would like something that would last you know? thanx man.
 
if you want easy, do something of the same OBD family. Stick with OBD1 engines. You'll just have to plug it in.

Yes, you want something with a LSD. I'd say go for the GSR with an LSD transmission. Win all the way around.
 
if you want easy, do something of the same OBD family. Stick with OBD1 engines. You'll just have to plug it in.

Yes, you want something with a LSD. I'd say go for the GSR with an LSD transmission. Win all the way around.
ok so ODB1 is the easyest. got it. GSR is a must and LSD...i dont know what it means. man thanx all you guys for your help.
 
you really REALLY need to stop everything you are currently doing or thinking about and do some serious research and reading

im not trying to be a dick here, so dont take it that way.... but you dont even know about what would be the equivalent of your ABCs of swapping or even modding
if you go into this as blind as you are now, you will end up blowing a ton of money on crap you didnt want or need

it is really in your best interest to spend the next few months just reading up and learning something... it will save your ass in the long run
 
well a kseries is not all of the time much stronger then say a b18c5 aka type R besides just a lil more torque (in favor of the k series)
 
Limited Slip Differential (LSD)
This is a good option because it will make both wheels turn under a load (like launching). A non-LSD transmission (like mine.....sigh) will only let one wheel spin while the other just hangs out and rolls. Its a nice option to deal with when you get your swap. If you chose to do it later....it would cost you much more and you would have to take the transmission apart too.

Soldering will be very minimal IF you get an OBD1 GSR swap (using the JDM VTEC, IAB's and Knock clips and running these lines to the ECU). Its like 5 or 6 wires....no biggy.

You can also work around many of the soldering issues if you have to get an OBD2 swap. But you will need to obtain a USDM OBD2 Integra harness....which cost more money lol.

Also....I suggest you get a new clutch, OEM timing belt and OEM water pump. Put these on before you put the motor in.....makes it much easier. New spark plugs, cap and rotor is a smart change too but these can be done when the motor has been installed just as easy.
 
well a kseries is not all of the time much stronger then say a b18c5 aka type R besides just a lil more torque (in favor of the k series)

getting alittle off topic, but a K-series will own a B18C5 in the same chassis.

After reading this thread though it sounds like a K-swap is unrealistic, given the posters lack of knowledge/experience.

roachstr0099 there are plenty of good articles in the tech and ref section that can answer some of your questions, that might be a good place to start. As for your swap I agree with the earlier posts, an OBD1 GSR with LSD trans is prob your best bet.

FYI, LSD = Limited Slip Differential, it helps with traction by limiting the difference in rotational speed between drive wheels, so you don't end up with one wheel spinning.
 
well a kseries is not all of the time much stronger then say a b18c5 aka type R besides just a lil more torque (in favor of the k series)

Fail. Read the thread and you'd see that this is a horrible option for this new comer.
 
when i get a chance, il upload pics of my engine and suspension....is it possible to be without suspension cause pot holes really kick my ass you know.
 
you really REALLY need to stop everything you are currently doing or thinking about and do some serious research and reading

im not trying to be a dick here, so dont take it that way.... but you dont even know about what would be the equivalent of your ABCs of swapping or even modding
if you go into this as blind as you are now, you will end up blowing a ton of money on crap you didnt want or need

it is really in your best interest to spend the next few months just reading up and learning something... it will save your ass in the long run
your not a dick....got it. bold but true. il do research like you said man. i knew i was getting ahead of myself. I need this forum for advice from dudes like you. thanks.
 
getting alittle off topic, but a K-series will own a B18C5 in the same chassis.

After reading this thread though it sounds like a K-swap is unrealistic, given the posters lack of knowledge/experience.

roachstr0099 there are plenty of good articles in the tech and ref section that can answer some of your questions, that might be a good place to start. As for your swap I agree with the earlier posts, an OBD1 GSR with LSD trans is prob your best bet.

FYI, LSD = Limited Slip Differential, it helps with traction by limiting the difference in rotational speed between drive wheels, so you don't end up with one wheel spinning.
Ooooh! you and cafrog are superior! tech and ref in site will raise my nub status? im giving it a shot anyway.
 
OK guys I am a newbie to the whole swap thing. I have a 95 civic dx also. I also have a d16y7 with my old intake,distributor,alt., already installed in my car. timed correctly. Do i need to change anything. I am not trying to hi jack this thread, just couldnt find a way to post a new thread. Im new to the site. I am not trying to haul a$$ Im trying to build my wife a dependable daily driver with as few problems as possible. The motor just wont start. Do i need the 98 ecu or will my 95 start it since im using all my old electronics on the motor? If anyone has some advice please shoot me an email to draggindetails@yahoo.com I have tried everything i can think of the last 2 days...this is my last hope. The car cranks, sounds like its not firing but it does have spark going thru, just not starting. It is getting fuel. The old d15 blew a head gasket is the only reason we are doing the swap otherwise we were happy with the little power it had. Im in north fl. if you have any ideas I am open to them....
 
well I dont think your thread jacking. the guys here are great with advice man, they've referred me to resources. thanx all.
 
well I dont think your thread jacking. the guys here are great with advice man, they've referred me to resources. thanx all.
thanks..now if i can get some help with my questions. I really need to get this car running soon. if anyone has any ideas let me know.
 
i put a d16y7 in a 94 civic dx! it will crank and run but its still not right! it cuts out at about 4000 rpms! does anyone have a clue what might b wrong?
 
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