picked up a B18c-1 block.. Pros and cons?

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78civic

Junior Member
Did some horse trading and got a b18c1 core motor.
Is this block actually a B18 or is it really better and where?
Main webs? Oiling?, Thicker walls?
I've already had a 18a block honed and am using 16 high comp pistons, but if this IS a better block/platform Maybe I'll use it instead.

OH, Nothing high dollar or mega hp. Just going for a "fun" swap into a HF.
And I'm keeping the head for a b20-Vtech swap in my 4dr.

SO, that's why I wanted to know about just the shortblock.

Thanks. E
 
so wait, what all did you get? did you get the whole long block or just the bottom end?

if you got the whole long block, i would just buy a good tranny and leave the engine as is. by the time you buy a b20 block and get it installed and set up, you could just about buy a turbo kit for it.
 
I've been pack-ratting away parts for years now.
The core c1 was disassembled and don't even know if the head bolts r all there.
Walls are slightly rusted from sitting. Head was complete 'cept for the cam tower bolts that came in a bag. Crank looked OK, don't remember if the pump came with or not. Do have the pan, windage tray, pickup tube, dizzy, solenoid, intake and some misc stuff. Basically it came in boxes and bags.

Im kinda thinking it was a flood car but don't know how to check. The dash he was keeping so I didn't get a vin tag but it's in the door sill.
I stripped the shell that I got for the suspension, and took as much off as I could.
So now I have 2-b18a's, 1-b20, 1b18c1 so if I'm missing a bolt or two, It doesn't really matter all that much.

E
 
well, if it's all apart, i would take the head in and get it cleaned up. hot tanked at least. especially if it has been sitting around.

if you have the b20 block, i would go with that as the bottom end and sell the b18c block.
 
use a B18a crank and rods in that bad boy. LS vtec without the BS kit. Makes a hell of a fun DD when you add high comp pistons.
 
oh and make sure you use some oversized pistons. I would use 82mm just to have nice clean walls.
 
Thanks..
BUT, why the 18a rotating assy? Is there a difference? (stroke/rod length)

I already have B16 high comp pistons on milled 18a rods that are standard going into a fresh honed 18a block.
Since they are only standard (and already pressed on) I wanted to use the better of the 3 blocks that they would fit in (2-18a, 1-c1) for them.

I really didn't want to change plans mid-stream unless it's worth it..
If I have time, I'll shoot some pics and try and add them tonight after work.

Magana: what type of mileage can one expect with that setup?

E
 
Well, one big thing that I just noticed is that I had to move the block to work on something else and low and behold OIL SQUIRTERS!! at the bottom of the bores.
HHHhhhmmmm.. Maybe I'll do a dingle-ball hone and see how it cleans up.

E
 
with stock cams and head you will get the same or better fuel economy on the highway. In the city expect a 5mpg drop. With my LS and B16 tranny Im getting 14-18mpg city and 28-30mpg highway. not bad for a seriously fun DD.
 
you stroke it out a bit, getting better low end torque and higher HP gains. If you do use the LS rods and crank you have to plug or bend the oil squirter's.
 
Hey is asking what the difference is between the blocks/cranks.. not how much fun they would be :mellow:. I have no idea, as I haven't owned a B block with a 212mm deck height yet, still on the 203.2mms. Sorry, but we all know B series is fun!
 
Thanks guys. I got on "Bens resource page" and found out that they had a shorter stroke but taller deck (?) and a link had a young man talking about how he disliked the B-series all together and why. Then gives a writeup on how to make a stout B-series V-tech, (kinda didn't make all that much sense...)
Which lead me to think that I should just keep it all together (B-c1) since it was 170hp stock. And JDM was a 200hp with 11:1 comp, with a 7800rpm limit. (according to his info)

I think I'll look on this site for bore/rod/compression parings to see if i should try the rotating assy in my CRV block.

Thoughts of Smokey ring in my head of "putting the longest rod in that you can find" BUT, since it's gonna be my DD, I doubt that its going to see 6000 rpms.

Off to search.. E
 
I was pretty sure the b16a and b17a were the only 203mm blocks. B16b, B18anything, B20b/z were all 212mm. I could be wrong.
 
Thanks guys. I got on "Bens resource page" and found out that they had a shorter stroke but taller deck (?) and a link had a young man talking about how he disliked the B-series all together and why. Then gives a writeup on how to make a stout B-series V-tech, (kinda didn't make all that much sense...)
Which lead me to think that I should just keep it all together (B-c1) since it was 170hp stock. And JDM was a 200hp with 11:1 comp, with a 7800rpm limit. (according to his info)

I think I'll look on this site for bore/rod/compression parings to see if i should try the rotating assy in my CRV block.

Thoughts of Smokey ring in my head of "putting the longest rod in that you can find" BUT, since it's gonna be my DD, I doubt that its going to see 6000 rpms.

Off to search.. E

jdm b18c makes just about the same as the USDM b18c. in japan they dont use the number like c1 c5 ect ect. The diffrence is the type r makes 200hp. not the GSR.

Its hard for me to explain all this. But what I can say is, The GSR has a longer rod than the LS, But the LS has a longer stroke. GSR has 87.5mm and the LS has a 89mm stroke. rod lenghth 137.9 mm on the GSR and 137.1 mm on the LS.

Its a slight stroke but a proven build. add a bit of a comp bump and you will awake this engine like a sleeping monster.

Dont forget to tune this bad boy! ;)
 
The Deck Height for the B18A/B is 211.84mm and the B18c1/5 & B16b is 212.39mm the difference between the two blocks is about 0.022in so just mill the b18c block 0.022in off and you will have the sane deck height as the b18a. the Piston-to-Deck Height for the b18c is 0.035 with 0.022in milled off its 0.013 with that gone it will give you a nice bump in your Static Comp Ratio.:ph34r:
 
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