pics/illustration request: 4wd dc teg or eg/ek civic

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The main problem with the CRV transmission is the fact that the input shaft and the transfer case are really weak. Im probably going to shatter this one within a couple of weeks and then I will rebuild it. I am going to work all the bugs out though and get back to you all with the progress from my build. I think it will have no problem holding up to 300 hp and maby 200 ft lbs but 400 ft lbs may be pushing it. Im going to test every aspect of the build and see what breaks and then make it stronger and build it better than before.
 
Do you have a build thread Gotboost? I have EG 4WD trailing arms and fuel tank but funds are limiting my progress at the moment.
A guy on Civic EG :: View topic - Hontec DC2 RWD V6 *update 28-02* is building a RWD mid mounted C35 DC2 using EG 4WD trailing arms and has modified the bearing retainer to accept CR-V bearings and the ITR hub assembly. I think i'm going to do that as well, It allows me to use the CR-V drivetrain and a cheap 5 lug.
I'll be definately asking you alot of questions though...if you dont mind.
Your custom mounts... Did you also have to raise the transmission mounts an inch to allow for the CR-V trans?
Great work by the way :)
So where's these pics?
 
Actually We had to lower the motor about and inch and a half. The mounts costed me 300 dollars. Call my supplier. His name is Mike and he owns Stafford Fabrication. I am just the owner of the car but any information I can give you I will be more than happy to let you get anything I can to help you out. Where did he get those trailing arms. Mine are front hubs from the DC2 integra modified for the rear and reinforced by the frame and cage system. Ill get the number for you when I get home and ill wait for your email. I can be reached on Gmail. Email aftershocklancer@gmail.com and I will give you my number so we can keep contact.
 
Just got off the phone with Mike and he said it will be better if you all just email him and he will return your messages promptly. He is a fabrication tech so he is really slow with computers with the exception of autocad but here is his email address. He did say that he dosn't mind duplicating my engine mounts for you all to use. They are made of mild steel with 85A Polyurethane filling. These should take some serious abuse. I am looking forward to this build. Email him at Boostwerks@yahoo.com
 
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Where did you get the EG6 4wd trailing arms at?? I was looking for them and no one had them? I am concidering building a DC2 integra GSR with the same kinda of build but its going to be with a K- Series engine next instead of the B-Series. I am just going to Jackson Racing Supercharge that one but I would like to also cut the cost of the build down aswell. I am about 8 thousand into the motor and 3 into all the neccesary parts for the drive train and the fabrication. After all is said and done I will have about 15 into the motor and about 4 into fabrication of the AWD system. If you have any supliers that have these things avalible let me know. I am really interested. I am gathering pics to start a build forum also. I am going to post on hondaswap and honda-tech for the build proccedures and pics. Look for Gotboost858. Its me. Thanx
 
I should have checked the email address first before I posted it. It comes back undeliverable and or error. Im going to call him later on and get the email addy again. Sorry guys. I am going to get this for you all
 
Mean......
I have a contact within Honda New Zealand that can source EG 4WD part numbers that I need, then I can get them through my local Honda parts dealership.
I'm in Australia and the EG/EK RTi, RTSi, RTX etc, have never been available here so they are virtually non existant on their systems.
( I'm guessing it would be the same where you are too)
But if you insist the part #'s are correct they can usually get them in for you.

Here are my trailing arms
Pics004.jpg


The part numbers for rear trailing arms without ABS is
LH = 52370-SR7-980
RH= 52371-SR7-980

The 4WD rear trailing arms are the same for both EG models and EK models.
Actually all 4WD parts are.
It will definately make things a lot easier if you plan on building an AWD K24 monster!
Good luck hope that helps.
 
emanuera- have you actually tried dry fitting the arms up to the car at all yet? I know a few peeps that have done the awd conversion using the genuine oem awd arms, but the arms are not a direct bolt up onto a non-awd car. They are longer overall and mounting points are different

so anyone that has access to the crv arms you may as well use those unless you specifically want to use the awd rear axles for whatever reason
 
No I haven't test fitted them yet, It's my girlfriends daily driver at the moment.
Yes I think you may very well be right, I also came to the conclusion the arms would be too long and would need to be shortened, but I have them now so I will use them, it doesn't matter what arms you use they will still have to be modified, I just didn't want to have 2 different trailing arms welded together like other similar builds, but each to their own, you can only do the best you can with the materials you have.
Hows progress going with you? I'm interested to see what you've got in mind for your driveline modification.
Do you know if you'll have any clearance issues with your 4WD K trans?
you should chat to corsportusa.com about K swap info they have all sorts of things you may find helpful.
Happy travelling.
 
the real problem people have been running into with the arms is not so much that they are too long, but the lower control arm mounting point is further back 1" and will bind the arms. You either have to move the mounting point forward on the arm itself which then increases the chances that the control arm will interfere with the axle, or you can do what most people have done which is (eesh) separate the rear subframe from the car and move it 1" back.

Me personally, I think at this point I am going to wait till I have the funds to do it right and try to get a rear clip or crashed chassis shipped over here from NZ/JP/UK/etc. That way the only thing I'll have to do is drop in my K swap and modified rear end. No cutting, modifying, relocating, tunneling, etc etc.

also as far as I can tell there shouldnt be too many issues with fitting the K trans since it's essentially a standard K case obviously with the addition of the tc output, unlike the B series which is actually a F/H trans with a B series bellhousing
 
This is the first stages of the awd drivetrain swap done on my EG6 civic hatchback.
 
lookin good :thumbsup:

im so jealous, its been so long since my crv trans has been in one piece lol

have you started getting the awd stuff in the car yet?
 
yes the drive train swap is complete.These are old pics. Probaby about 6 months to a year old. The car runs now and is being tuned on Hondata S300 for boost. Launch anti-lag boost control and wide open throttle shift via a MSD 7AL2 ignition and a HVC red tower coil. The stroke changed from the standard 89mm of the honda ls block to the 95mm Eagle stroke. The crank and roatating assembly is all balanced and the block is sleeved and opened up to 84mm. I am running a system designed by Will Navaro of Exospeed Engineering Hi comp LSvtec with a Fully built B18c head anda 11:0.1 overall compression i should see 650 hp @ 7800 rpms or so with this Turbonetics T66 Custom built turbocharger, twin 45mm wastegates on a tubular top mounted equal length manifold. IT already made 230 ll motor with light tuning. Im happy with the car. I am afraid of it when I get it back from the fab shop. I havent driven it in a couple of years while it was down for the build. Its almost done. I m so anxious.
 
No. I use a Nissin Rear differential @ the 2.533 rear drive ratio. You need to find a old subaru impresa non turbo RS and remove the rear diff and the axles. The stock Honda rear diff would explode if i tried to put this power to it. Phantom Grip makes a LSD for the Nissin R160 rear diff. That is the one that matches the CR-V drive ratio. Also I found that Phantom grip has a LSD for the 4 WD crv transmissions also. Look into it. You will not be disapointed.
 
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The R160 is also a fully geared rear differential not hydraulic. It alows for more expantion later on in time for rear wheel drive converions. There are many gear chnge options for this rear differential. The CR-V rear differential is not strong enough. It also has small dinky ass axles.
 
Nice dude! I will be studying these pics very closely :)
Are you still using the rear axle you were talking about?
 
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