pissedofsol ,i need ur help

[nightshift]

my car is throwing a c.e.l,i recently took it to the local bosch service center & was told engine speed fluctuation,i would like to diagnoze this thing myself,before i take it to them for the expensive repair they quoted (they say i need a new m.a.p sensor) here are the specs of my car

96 EK3 honda civic vti 88,000 kms on the odo
V.I.N jhmek3560.............
D15Z7 3 STAGE VTEC,STANDARD EXCEPT FOR BRANCH MANIFOLD

I beleive the e.c.u is the obd2 type (big metal-box),its located on the passenger kick panel,what beats me is that i do not see anything that resembles an l.e.d on it,unless the l.e.d is located on the side bolted to the chasis,however there are 2 unplugged 2pin connectors covered with a green cap purposely lying on top of th ecu?,how do i go about diagnosing the c.e.l????????????????????????????

 

[97CTR]

Take the two pin connector you have above the ecu. Not the one with the green cap, I beleive it has a brown and white wire. Stick a wire in one of the pins and the other end of the wire in the other pin area, "jumping the connector. Once this is done turn your key to the accessory position, don't start the car. Your check engine light will flash in a morse code fashion. For example a code 16 would be one long flash followed by six fast flashes, 22 would be two slow flashes and two fast ones and so on. In the reference section you will find the list of all the ecu error codes.

I may not have explained it so you can understand, maybe someone can do better. I know there is a writeup around the site somewhere with pics.
reference section <---click me

 

[nightshift]

thnks man ure a genius, im getting 5 long flashes & four short ones,my abs light is also going crazy,but that i'l check out later,,its a 96 jdm d15z7 3 stage v-tec with (i beleive the obd2 ecu) i just need a conversion table

 

[VTECin5th]

Quoted post[/post]]
thnks man ure a genius, im getting 5 long flashes & four short ones,my abs light is also going crazy,but that i'l check out later,,its a 96 jdm d15z7 3 stage v-tec with (i beleive the obd2 ecu) i just need a conversion table

What are you converting?
And yea code 54 (5 long and 4 short) is


54- Accord Civic CRV CRX Del Sol Odyssey Prelude
96 96-98 97-98 n/a 96-97 n/a n/a
CKF Sensor (Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation)
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor

..
exactly what they said it was.
Should be alot cheaper to fix on your own, if i knew where the sensor was i'd try to help you more
I'm not sure that it has ANYTHING to do with the MAP sensor tho....

 

[nightshift]

if i am corect then that "code 54 crankshaft speed fluctuation defective circuit or unplugged" could someone explain where this sensor is and what it does????????????????so i can investigate,,,thanx a lot 97 ctr

 

[VTECin5th]

Quoted post[/post]]
if i am corect then that "code 54 crankshaft speed fluctuation defective circuit or unplugged" could someone explain where this sensor is and what it does????????????????so i can investigate,,,thanx a lot 97 ctr

A Crankshaft Fluctuation Sensor (CKF) is located near the bottom of the timing cover where it generates a signal as the crankshaft timing chain sprocket rotates past it. These sensors establish ignition and fuel injection timing, and monitor crankshaft speed variation.

Google > *
....
This may be different for our non chain-type timing sprockets

 

[nightshift]

yes vtecin5th,that should have nothing to do with the m.a.p sensor,the garage fuckers will do anything to rip you of,using their "unparralled expertise and experience as an excuse"

so it has a major effect on how well my engine runs!!!!!,the 3 stage vtec is equipped with an econo light that comes on below 3000 rpm ,this signals ure running in econo mode,(and using air to fuel ratios of as much 20:1-this never comes on) i heard this ckf is located located within the distributor,

 

[VTECin5th]

Quoted post[/post]]
yes vtecin5th,that should have nothing to do with the m.a.p sensor,the garage fuckers will do anything to rip you of,using their "unparralled expertise and experience as an excuse"

so it has a major effect on how well my engine runs!!!!!,the 3 stage vtec is equipped with an econo light that comes on below 3000 rpm ,this signals ure running in econo mode,(and using air to fuel ratios of as much 20:1-this never comes on) i heard this ckf is located located within the distributor,

I suppose that's possible, but i just read at another site that it is near the oil pump by the timing side...
i just read again that it is on the oil pump housing
Final edit..
"the sensor's on the front of the crankshaft by the lower crank pulley. Check your wiring, Lots of times it comes unhooked or is left unhooked and gets chewed by the alternator belt."

 

[nightshift]

that makes a lot of sense,the car still has good mileage on it,im off to look in that area

 

[nightshift]

i looked in that area & i found a 3 wire cable that runs on top of the alternator close to the belt and dissapears into the camcover,the same 3 wire cable plugs into the rest of the harness next to the lower cam cover,the white cable on the plug is hanging on by a few threads,whilst the blue also seems to be frayed the wires are blue black white....do u think this is the ckf cable

lastly suppose this is not the problem,exactly how much of an effect on performnce is this ckf sensor having.

 

[posol]

replace the wriing... if its frayed, thats prob why its acting weird and throwing a code..

 

[sireg]

Quoted post[/post]]
its a 96 jdm d15z7 3 stage v-tec with (i beleive the obd2 ecu)

its prolly your first or second stage v-tec thats causing the problem, are you running anything to support your 3 stage v-tec?

 

[97CTR]

yeah fix the wiring and you should be good.

 

[nightshift]

i spent the better half of this morning hardwiring the damned cables,it required the dexterity of a neurosurgeon,and the contortion abilities of a circus gymnast ....after all that hard work i started the car only to have that damned yellow light glow as bright as ever..............i understand the E.C.M has to be reset,,how do i do that ,i was told to pull the ecm fuse,,there is no fuse written E.C.M or (similair synonym,the only fuse that could be a close match has fi e/m written on it (its a 15amp underbonnet )........during rewiring i removed this,after completing the rewiring i put it back,bridged my diagnostic port and was still getting the code 54 BEFORE EVEN STARTING THE ENGINE,so clearly pulling that fuse DIDNT DO JACK....... HELP!!! how do i clear the the code?????????????

 

[drpenguin]

replacing the sensor might rid you of the cel

 

[kyleirwin]

there are many ways to reset the ecu, what i've always done, and has always worked well for me is...
disconnect the negative (-) battery cable, turn your lights on (to discharge any power that may still be left in the car's electrical system), turn your lights back off, reconnect the battery after a few secs (about 10) and that's it. it's nowhere near scientific and a couple steps may be redundant, but it has worked for me.

as for the sensor you're talking about...

this is what the sensor looks like, it is mounted right next to the crank near the oil pump, under the lower timing cover as stated before in this post.

there are two wires coming off of the sensor... one blue, one white.

this is what the plug coming out of the timing cover looks like...

it is a magnetic sensor that reads the fluctuation of the crankshaft by reading the pulses it gets from that gear lookin' thing mounted onto the timing belt gear that is on the crankshaft. it's one of those stupid obd2 gizmos.

go back down there and make sure that you were reconnecting the right wires (white/blue) and double check that everything is wired correctly.

 

[nightshift]

hi there thanks a lot for the info!,mine differs slightly from urs ,in that in that the plug has got blue white and black coming from it,i'l recheck my connections and reset the ecm. my engine seems to be running smooth as a sewing machine,this sensor could be one of those gizmos that add unnecessary complexity to what is an exceptional engine.

 

[kyleirwin]

Quoted post[/post]]
hi there thanks a lot for the info!,mine differs slightly from urs ,in that in that the plug has got blue white and black coming from it,i'l recheck my connections and reset the ecm.

yes, i could see that being true. the pics of the sensor i showed were from a OBD2 USDM GSR (B18C1) engine. reset your ecu and let us know if you got your problems cleared up.

Quoted post[/post]]
my engine seems to be running smooth as a sewing machine,this sensor could be one of those gizmos that add unnecessary complexity to what is an exceptional engine.

i'd definiately have to agree... that sensor is not present on obd1 engines.

 

[reikoshea]

the other wire might just be one of those check volt wires (the actual name escapes me right now)

now get back under yer car...you got work to do.

 

[nightshift]

Got up early this morning to recheck the wiring as a last ditch effort ,i then accidentally tugged on the blue wire on the sensor cable,and it came clean off!!!,seems like that particular wire left the factory only hanging by a few threads,the guys at the factory never checked this and just insulated it!,had i never tugged at it i would have never solved the prblem,especially since the damaged part was deep in the cable,not far from the alt belt

anyway i hardwired it reset the ecu,and no engine check light!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!,i then drove the car to work and for the first time the econo light came on!!!!,signifying the lean burn part of the 3 stage vtec was working (fuel to air ratio's of 1:20) ,to cap it off when i parked my exhaust was spewing more water than id ever seen come out of it!!!!!!


guys the forum is really of great help thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!