Discussion in 'Civic and del Sol - EG and EK' started by Redwingf4i, Jul 20, 2017.
id say get a p72 ecu
and that ecu has not been chipped/remapped you more than likely just have the wrong ecu, get the correct obd1 p72
a p28 is for a d16 civic and a p72 is the correct gsr ecu
Ok. So I'm going to find a p72 ecu. Then what. Just unplug the p28 and plug in the p72 and I'm good? Y'all are freakn awesome. I would've never known. Why was the p28 on there?
Could they have put in the p28 because there bypassing the knock sensor or iabs. I know it's literally just a motor sitting under the hood. There no o2 sensors I can see, harness has been tucked. I just don't want the p72 to start looking for things that aren't there. Or cause more issues. But I need this car running right.
damn sure is
you can see the zif socket with the chip in it in the lower right corner of the first pic
which might be helpful if he had a GSR swap, which he does not.
gsr fuel maps will not be correct for his 2L bottom end
he does not have the gsr intake manifold with the secondary butterflies
probably does not have a knock sensor
O2 sensor is most likely under the engine at the collector on the header right in front of the cat (or where the cat would be if you dont have one)
waste of time and money
But I do need to get my car tuned and my ecu is otherwise ok? I still have some work to do before i get it dyno'd and I'm 99% sure my CEL has been disabled although nothing's disconnected at the back of the gauge cluster. One turn of the key all dashlights come on but no CEL. That's another issue I'll deal with. But will it affect my tune. Does he need to run codes or anything? He obviously won't get anything out of jumping the harness.. thanks man. I was kind of freaking out.
This is the only Bung on my exhaust system. Guessing this could be an issue? And is that accessible and/or able to be used by the tuner for the wideband or whatever. And also... do i need the o2 sensor and how do i install it. I mean is it easy enough for me with basic mechanic skills or should i take it to a shop.
Thanks for all your help.
yes get it tuned
if it runs then the ECU SHOULD be ok
no CEL at startup sounds like the bulb has burned out or been removed
no O2 sensor is not a good thing
means it is likely set up to run open loop (ie: rich as fuck at all times)
hard to say what would be involved in getting the sensor put back in there as there is a wire tuck and who the hell knows what they did
Thanks a lot man. You both have been a lot of help. I bought this car to help get myself away from sportbikes and the stupid things I was doing on them. I've always loved tuners and am definitely an extreme HONDA fan. I have a basic knowledge of motors and how to work on them. But with this crazy motor. Wire tuck, can't find obd1 and CEL not working. It makes it hard. I don't know what's aftermarket. How high the compression really is. I just go blank every time I look at this thing. But the passions still there. Y'all are literally the only ones helping me with this. So again. Thank you.
One more question for the day. Since my motor is running "rich as fuck" could that be whats causing the "out of gas" stutter I get after redlining a little bit. Only happens every now and then after I burn through a gear or two.
i would definitely recommend getting a service manual at least for a 94 GSR
that will get you close to what you have there and will help figuring out the wiring and what not
dont waste time with any of the auto parts store manuals (Haynes, Chiltins, etc), as a general rule they are pretty useless
get a real deal Helm service manual (should be a few thousand pages long)
you can get hard copies ($$$) or with some searching you can find online copies
do not pay for one of the CD versions off of ebay or whatever, you are literally paying $10 for someone else to search for it online, find a pdf copy, save it, burn it to a disk, and send it to you... pointless
find it yourself
Nice definitely will do that
Like E said.....definitely chipped. SST chip in lower right corner of 1st pic.
Tucked wire harness, O2 puposely deleted, and CEL bulb is blown or disconnected? You may have some serious work in front of you. We have no idea what wiring gremlins are there.
Like E said....Helm manual....and I'll add the need of a multimeter. Start diagnosing based on Helm data. Not an easy task but doable.
A P06 (non-vtec D16 1992-1995) will be a decent donor ECU (and cheap) for a company to chip and program to your liking. I say delete IAB's and Knock Sensor. But all other sensors need to be hooked up.
I've already downloaded a helm manual for 94-2000 integra. Hope that's right. And yea it's gonna be difficult. I just want the car to run safely for now. But I'm just hoping I find someone who has the same "mindset" as Dr. Frankenstein did when he built this car. So they can explain themselves.
So you don't think my p28 is what i should use? And I should use a p06 for a non vtec b16. That's not going to mess anything up? Since I have a vtec b18 w/ b20 block. And I can still bypass iabs and knock right? But im Not trying to do anything crazy to the car. Just want it tuned to whats on/in the motor already. I dont mind changing exhaust, air intAke or Even injectors for a correct tune but if my p28 will do the job correctly I'm hopping to use it.
Check engine light does NOT come on when key is initially put to the "on" position?
If so, I would get that CEL light working 1st. Maybe it's unhooked or maybe you need a new bulb. Once it's working, super easy to check the codes if you go through a short sequence.
If you see burn marks on ECU board and want to get a new set up, a P06 is what I said it was (non-vtec) but a reputable company can modify it (chip it) to work well with your current B-series longblock. Its cheaper than a P28 or P72. Just make sure its for a manual transmission. If you go this route, (some new ECU) I'd get it socketed, (to hook up to a laptop) and you can have a dyno tuner modify the tune (if you make changes later).
But, once again, I'd work on electrical wiring and checking all of their work. Well.....I'd personally rip all the "tucked" out and put a D16Z6 or B18C1 engine harness. Basic-bland kinda stuff. Staying the same OBD would be my preferene.
Probably lots of wiring went behind the fenders an into the cabin....that all should be checked if multimeter dictates to check for continuity.
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