PMTR Q's

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Oh...sorry bout that.

:confused:

Anyways...

All OEM Honda pistons have to be pressed on...If you decide to go with GSR or ITR pistons, you'll have to shave about a millimeter off either side of the top of the rod (where the wristpin goes), because the opening inside of the GSR/ITR pistons are narrower than the B16/LS.

And the B16 (or PR3, rather) pistons with a B16 head will give you around a 11.1:1 compression, GSR pistons with a B16 head will give you 9.8:1, USDM ITR pistons with a B16 head will get you 10.6:1, and JDM ITR will give you 11.1:1.

Even if you're going turbo, I'd still go with the B16 pistons. You've already got them, I believe, so that's no more money out of your pocket. As long as you have someone who knows what they're doing and won't tune the car too lean so that the pistons melt after 500 miles of driving (cough cough) you'll be fine boosting on 11.1:1. A good friend of mine JUST finished his ITR/turbo a few days ago, standard DRAG bolt-on kit @10psi, the only changes to the motor being a set of GSR cams, put down 279whp/195tq on a VERY conservative tune with Hondata.

High compression + boost is where it's at. It's all in the tuning.
 
civicious @ Dec 14 2005 said:
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As long as you have someone who knows what they're doing and won't tune the car too lean so that the pistons melt after 500 miles of driving (cough cough) you'll be fine boosting on 11.1:1.
Click to expand...

:laugh: :cry: :cry:

I'd still ceramic coat the pistons if you're going to boost on high compression- especially with the stock cast pistons.
 
Can you just take your slugs somewhere and get them coated? I was under the impression that you had to by them coated. I just got a new car and im swapping the b16 outa the rex to a 93 hatch. since its all obd1 i can finally use hondata or something to that effect. I just got my own chip burner also. The LS crank will fit the girdle on the GSR right? As long as i keep the oilpan. pickup right?
 
Yes, send the pistons to Swain. They're one of the best places to have coatings done (if not the best) and it's where I had my pistons coated.

The LS crank will fit the GSR girdle as long as you use all the GSR hardware- pan, pickup, and windage tray.

Need a Hondata setup? I've got one to get rid of- has everything. Literally.
 
I'm pretty sure mine's built on a P28... not sure right now though, because I don't have the car in front of me. It's either a P28 or a B16 ECU.
 
Now i have been told that you cant rev a LS crank and rods to 8g. I was wondering if this was true. i was going to get the crank micro polished and balanced befor it goes in. ARP bolts are a must on my list. I have seen to many people destroy there LS vtec with out these bolts.
 
I dont have stock LS rods, but my LS/VTEC sees 8-9 grand on a daily basis. Micropolished crank, full ballance, arp everything. Build it right and it will last.
 
well i planed on polishing and balancing the crank and getting the ARP bolts and head studs. Are you running all OEM honda parts in your LS vtec?
 
Mine is a stock magnafluxed and micro-polished LS crank, riding on ACL bearings, conected to scat rods using ARP bolts, which are conected to 12:1 forged Endyn pistons. So, :no: most of my internals are not stock, but then again i don't recomend taking stock LS rods past 8 grand. You could get away with it a few times, but too many 10,000 rpm shifts will give you a very nice ventilated crankcase... :cry:
 
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